Transmission Gasket Install Help
02-25-2008, 10:30 PM
#1
Track Day
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Transmission Gasket Install Help
I have just finished dropping the G50/03 transmission in my 1991 C2 Cab primarily so that I could fix the release fork and bearing (Transmission would not shift easily into 1st and 2nd. Release fork and bearing had gotten misaligned and fork was getting a notch worn into it's side). I would also like to replace the gasket on the front transmission housing. Could anyone give me some advice on replacing this gasket? Are any special tools required? What is the procedure for removing the housing and how do I uninstall/reinstall the eccentric? Thanks!!!
03-25-2008, 12:14 AM
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Track Day
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I ended up removing the nose cone without any issues and replaced the gasket. I applied the gasket without any sealant. There are a few people recommending putting copper gasket spray on both sides of the gasket but I decided to coat the gasket with a little 75W90 Mobil 1. My reason for not applying the copper spray was that I was concerned with galvanic corrosion.
The reason I removed the transmission was because it was not shifting into and out of 1st and 2nd gears properly. I had already replaced the master and slave cylinders and bled the clutch but that didn't help. It turns out that the release fork was damaged due to the release bearing tabs cutting into the side of the fork. I am not really sure how this can happen. Everything else looked good. The dual mass flywheel was a LUK and the clutch looked relatively new. I replace the release fork, bearing and guide tube. Shifts fine now.
The reason I removed the transmission was because it was not shifting into and out of 1st and 2nd gears properly. I had already replaced the master and slave cylinders and bled the clutch but that didn't help. It turns out that the release fork was damaged due to the release bearing tabs cutting into the side of the fork. I am not really sure how this can happen. Everything else looked good. The dual mass flywheel was a LUK and the clutch looked relatively new. I replace the release fork, bearing and guide tube. Shifts fine now.
03-27-2008, 12:40 AM
#4
Race Car
You have to have your tailcone off, remove 5th and reverse gear and the associated shift fork, etc. - this requires a head source and a gear puller...also requires a large socket, 42mm from memory and a 24mm or something close for the other large nut.
Once you have everything visible removed from the tailcone area, release the nuts that hold your bellhousing to the midsection and it should slide off with a little "encouragement" - there are a few tabs molded into the case that allow you to use prybars, DO NOT pry into the mating surface.
It's a job, but once you slide the mid-section off everything that's left on the main and secondary shafts is still there, attached to the bellhousing section - pretty cool when compared to R&R'ing an earlier 915 gearbox.
That's about all I can tell you technical wise...really it would pay to have someone with experience by your side when you do this, but it's possible that the average mechanically adept person could tackle this, no doubt...after all, I figured it out.
You'll need a press and a head source (I use a map gas torch from Home Depot/Lowe's - better than firing up the oxy-acetylene torch each time) - really, I suggest you seek some local technical expertise because it gets ugly from there when you disassemble the shaft components to get the to the synchros/selectors for your gearsets.
Once you have everything visible removed from the tailcone area, release the nuts that hold your bellhousing to the midsection and it should slide off with a little "encouragement" - there are a few tabs molded into the case that allow you to use prybars, DO NOT pry into the mating surface.
It's a job, but once you slide the mid-section off everything that's left on the main and secondary shafts is still there, attached to the bellhousing section - pretty cool when compared to R&R'ing an earlier 915 gearbox.
That's about all I can tell you technical wise...really it would pay to have someone with experience by your side when you do this, but it's possible that the average mechanically adept person could tackle this, no doubt...after all, I figured it out.
You'll need a press and a head source (I use a map gas torch from Home Depot/Lowe's - better than firing up the oxy-acetylene torch each time) - really, I suggest you seek some local technical expertise because it gets ugly from there when you disassemble the shaft components to get the to the synchros/selectors for your gearsets.
