Just got back from the garage, the guy wanted to talk to me about the costs involved in the restoration of my 964... Apparently the little oil leak isnt that little at all. All connections are f***ed up cause air cooling of engine was disturbed because rubber connection lost air somewhere. So engine worked quite a long time without proper cooling.
All heat shield messed up, a lot disappeared or oxidized (rust).
So quite a lot of work and euros to get the parts. Now I was thinking, Im going to Boston next week. Any chance one of you knows where I could get good deals for parts?

I ll upload some pics of the car as it is now... And all I wanted is to spray it white...

 

I'd find it hard to believe that some rubber connection for air routing caused such large problems (any problems at all for that matter...). Looks like your car (and your pocketbook) are in your mechanic's disposal/control.

Come to think of it, I can't think of anything that's rubber or plastic that could come loose, that has to do with engine cooling and would make your engine be in any worse condition. Most race cars (mine included) do not use any heat shielding around the engine... Good luck!

 

I'm not seeing any big leaks .
If you get the thing all cleaned up and then watch for leaks ,
you might just save yourself a ton of money .

Good used tin work in boston might be hard to find .
If you like I can call around to the porsche junk yards and see what a good set of used tin is going for .

 

"Looks like your car (and your pocketbook) are in your mechanic's disposal/control."
Sounds like the mechanic needs to make a "boat payment" .

 

"Any chance one of you knows where I could get good deals for parts?"
What all do you want to buy ?

 

thats not too bad. you need to replace all the rubber elboes in that area. should solve your problem. before you do anything you need to pressure wash that area really good, think it clean, clean it again. you want to make sure you get all that oil and dirt out of that area before you start taking hoses loose as you do not want to get any dirt inside the system, it will go straight to you bearing and internals.oil at this location is down stream off the filter, so if anything gets in its going thru your engine. not trying to scare you just making you aware and to have that area clean while working in there. dont waste your time trying to tighten them up, they need to be replaced. you will have to drain the oil too.

the oil line that goes from the drivers side to oil filter housing looks like it need to be changed also. that line runs 200 dollars. to change that line you are going to have to drop that exhaust on the drivers side to get that line off at that location. your car looks a little rusty, i say this because if you have some more than likely the exhust nuts to the heads are also and that is probably going to be you biggest problem. soak them for a couple days before you try to remove them, dont want to break a stud, and i say a prayer that you will not.

as far as the insulation coming loose that is normal. just scrape the foam that is flaking off the panels and clean them up and reinstall. you should be fine.

the problem with getting parts cheap here is you have to mail order and these days Porsche is not keeping to much stock around. not to say that they not in stock . just seems like every time i order it has to come from germany.

that line for 200 that i was referring to comes from a porsche parts house and not from porsche but is a actual porsche part. someone should point you in the right directio. when i bought mine it was 450 from the dealer.

you car is not that bad just need some maintenance. it could be worse, a lot worse. you can fix all these without taking the engine out.

 

By looking to the last picture, could the leakage be caused by a badly positioned lift support. It seems that a part of the thermostat is sitting on the support.

Mvg,

Geert

 

"a badly positioned lift support."
Gives you confidence in the quality of the work being done , don't it .

 

My 2 cents:

Sheet metal around engine, usually referred to as "tins", is rusted badly, especially at back. I would be willing to bet this engine got some salt water, from beach or cold weather road clearing, on it at some point. It doesn't look like a result of engine heat. However, if the large rubber connector from the heat exchangers to the rear blower (in back left corner, below tins) was not installed, then you could have introduced some heat into the engine compartment, causing the motor to overheat. However, you would have seen that indicated on the oil temperature gauges. If the overheating was extreme, get out the wallet because you probably damaged a LOT of engine parts. I bet that didn't happen without you getting a warning. And I don't think just overheating would have disintegrated the tins in back.

I just did the repair discussed in previous posts: First, replaced oil line from the oil filter housing to the tank in right rear wheel well. If you have a good hydraulic hose fabricator, as we do in San Antonio, you can save a TON of money by taking the old hose to them and letting them fabricate a new hose. They can cut the ends from the old line and crimp them onto commonly available new hose sections. Also replaced oil line from left side of engine across back to oil filter housing. This hose is currently available on eBay for $149.00, without insulation. If you can save your insulation, you can slip it onto the new hose. Or buy some insulation at auto parts and wrap with foil tape. I think it's easier to remove both heat exchangers instead of unbolting them indiviually. Not that difficult a job.

I think if you cleaned the thing, bought a new set of tins and bolted them onto the engine (might be possible but difficult with engine in car by dropping it a few inches), cleaned the thing up again and ran the engine to see if you really have oil leaks, you might be surprised that you're done.

If you really semi-fried the engine, see if the mechanic, whom I agree sounds shady and whose work looks unprofessional, will buy the car from you. Take whatever you can get, put the money you would waste on this car with it and go buy a good white car. Your mental health will be worth the difference in the few $ more it will cost. It may actually cost less than what you will spend on this thing for repairs and paint.

Personal opinion, I would get it off this guy's lift and back into my possession as soon as possible, even with no further work. Take your parts and run.

 

Oh, and as to your original question re: parts,which I didn't answer, Rennlist, Pelican Parts, AutohausAZ, Zim's and Vertex are my recommendations. Don't know which, is any, have walk-in desks. Find them all online.

 

if i were you i would replave that hose unless you know that the have the correct fittings and hose.

i was living in indianapolis, indiana and that hose that goes to the engine to the filter housing i took it to the biggest and best hose repair place. there shop was very nice. so i am waiting for it and i hear this guy cussing and then i hear grinding and sparks in the distance. i yell for him to stop and the amnager comes running and the guy working on my hose stops grinding.

i ask them why are they grinding on the hose and they say this is a metric size tube and need to grind down a little to get hose fix. i told him to stop and if that were the case he should have given me the option to do this if i wanted to go that route. i told him that this is a important hose and that the thins edges the made from grinding down could break and be in the oil system , regardless if its before the filter.

i told him he is going to buy me a new line and he said no, i said ok i will call the police and make a report, he said call corporate and all the customers thought i was crazy, i did not care. i called corporate and they said go to the dealer and buy it and come back to that shop and the manager will cut me a check!!!!!

ordered a line and they paid for it. 452.00 dollars

i was lucky i was there, and learned a lesson, sometimes saving money is pain in the butt and can cost you even more in the long run.
buy the new factory stuff and drive for another 10 years.

 

Elbeee964 - I said white car not only because I am biased (my Grand Prix white cars = '89 C4, '75 911S and '78 SC) but original post said he just wanted to spray the car white.

Dutchcrunch - You didn't read my post carefully. I also suggested buying the engine-to-filter hose, although I had toyed with having mine made. At $149.00, it wasn't worth saving $70.00. However, if the hydraulic shop only replaces the hose portion, they crimp them onto the steel pipe sections. No problem with metric issues on just the crimps. I've done five on two cars and never had any problems. Sounds like your shop may not be quite the quality we have here. Here they're in the business of building hoses etc., for heavy equipmenet much more expensive than a 964, so they know how to do it. They clean them afterwards, before delivery, etc..

On one where I needed the metric fitting, they pointed out the metric issue BEFORE they cut into it. Also, on one they did for me where I needed a new pipe they sleeved a larger size SAE pipe over the metric original and welded the overlap. It has to be stronger than the original.

If I had money to burn, I would buy a new car that didn't need hoses. I saved over ($400.00 list) on the filter-to-tank hose.

 

I have used hose fabricators for both oil hose and AC hoses. No issues. Just find a good shop, and double check the cleaning job. I would check the cleanliness of even the factory's new hose.

 

T-shark,

If shipping from the USA is too pricey try these guys - you could try http://www.porsch-apart.co.uk/ Worldwide shipping, vast warehouse of parts.

What year is your Targa?

 

Altarchsa, i did read what you said, and you are lucky to find a shop that had the right stuff. my shop too did hose manufacture and repair for CAT and other heavy duty equipment,they had the large crimp presses and tools to do the job, but they usally have the proper original hose and oem clamps for what they service. but how often does some guy walk in with a hose from a porsche to have repaired. a hose is not a hose.

mine was so ( the rubber connection ) hardened the when off the car you could twist the metal hose in the rubber. so not only did i have to repair it right but it must be clocked correctly before the repaired line is crimped.

these days you open the yellow pages and figure i find the biggest add and make a few calls and pick who we thinkis best and if you are not around who knows what that guy in the back is doing.

i wish you could have seen that line that shop repaired for me. certain crimps go with certain hoses. the hose they wanted to use was a little small. the grinded the end of the pipe paper thin to a point that it was like a knife so they could get that hose on if i had not stop them. unless you know for sure they have the right stuff you are just another victim should they not and monkey ffff
your line up.

like you said the hose can be had for a couple bucks more and that was a good point whether new, still flush out the line.!!!!!!!

i could have got the line cheaper if i had to buy it but seeing the were paying i went to my local dealer and said sock it to me cause this line is free for me.


just remember if you pay 35-40 dollars to get something fixed how much of the extra mile are they going to go to make sure that line is perfect for your porsche.

NOTHING LIKE OEM, BABY.

and again Altarchsa, i know what you were saying and i was just pointing out my experience. good tip on flushing the new line