NoEardGoat

Well, I wasn't planning on doing a rebuild. In fact that is the reason why I bought this engine so that I would be able to "drop a good engine in" rather than rebuild my 3.0L. The inevitable happened and I now have spent a lot more money and still will need to rebuild an engine. Paying $6500 for an 3.6l engine that needs new rings and valve job at least really sucks!!!!!!! I would have just rebuilt the 3.0L if I would have known this. Maybe I will get "lucky" and all I need is to re ring and valve job this 3.6l.

I did a compression leak down test to all the cylinders. I used a tool that I made. When using the tool I set it @ 100 psi. disconnected and then connected the hose w/ spark plug fitting to the tool and got the following results. I noticed that the gauge on the regulator dipped along with the connection to the hose. Is this normal?

Here are the compression leak down test results:

1: 9% Air heard through crankcase breather past rings.

2: 12-13% Air heard through exhaust and rings.

3: 8% Air heard past rings

4: 11% Air heard past rings

5: 14% Air heard through exhaust and rings

6: 56% Air heard through exhaust and rings


Fawk! This much couldn't be from valves out of adjustment could it?


I pulled off the valve covers and took a look and everything looks good. No excessive cam wear on #6, I checked the valve clearances on #6 and the intake was easy for the .004 tool to enter and the exhaust was a little tight, but the .004 went all the way in.

I was examining the exhaust port on the cylinders 4-6 and noticed that #6, with 50% leak, has a weird casting shape or material missing or something? Here is a picture of the #6 Exhaust port and one of the other normal 5 exhaust ports.


How bad is this damage to the ceramic port lining and how does it need to be fixed. Any other tips, comments, advice appreciated as well.

crg53

I had my top end rebuild this summer, we had the same issues with the ceramic liners on 3 of the heads. We decided to put it back togther with new valves and guides, and in my opinion the engine runs very strong. I thing if you use your car as a race car go for the new heads, if not, fix the valves and put it back together.

Indycam

How long has the motor been non running ?

NoEardGoat

It was running in the car 4 weeks prior. So it essentially has never been "non-running," until I tore it apart. The car was purchased at auction with some rear trailing arm damage less than a month prior to the sale to me. I talked to the seller and he's still stating that the motor is a "strong runner." He is a mechanic, but a diesel mechanic. Don't know how far I need to tear it down, but I need to fix the cylinder leakage problem in #6 for sure.

Advice?

Thanks,
Emerson

NoEardGoat

Cylinder leakdown test was done on the stand with a cold motor. I thought this might sway the #'s a little larger than an actual hot test, but 50% leakage seems horrible cold or hot?