'89 ABS/Interlock/! and alarm update
11-04-2007, 04:04 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Burnet, Texas (Central TX)
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'89 ABS/Interlock/! and alarm update
Hello all,
Here is an abbreviated update of my warnign light adventure:
1...Battery charged 13.8 VDC, battery posts cleaned, battery cables removed and cleaned
2...ABS and diff lock solenoid grounds removed and cleaned.
3...Diff lock solenoids 4 wire connector removed and cleaned
4...ABS control unit connector removed and cleaned corroded termainals at pin 9 (ground, acceleration sensors), 27 (D+) and 28 (Full lock switch)
5...Brake fluid to max mark on reservoir
6...Removed and cleaned spoiler lid ground and rerouted away from coil high tension wire
7...Cycled diff lock in neutral engine on and off with key on. Console switch to engage and you hear a single distinct engage sound. Switch to off and you hear what sounds more like a brief 1-1.5 second ratcheting like sound instead of the single "thunk". Not sure if thats normal or not.
8...Cleaned lateral accelerometer and found it contaminated with fine metal particles and what appeared to be a chewed up piece of very thin .002-.003" copper/brass shim stock. At first I thought it was part of the mechanism, but it was in so many pieces I decide it could be. Whats strange is the only movement I could see was the slight movement that the arm would make in side loads. There is no way it could damage anything in my opinion. I found a pic of an accelerometer another RL member cleaned and low and behold, there was a similar piece of "shim stock" that he had removed from his accelerometer. He also showed pics of it jammed between the steel arem and the magnet. I am wondering if this piece is supposed to be in place over the magnet? But if so, how does it become so buggered up. I am attaching his pics for inspection. See the last picture for the copper/brass shim looking piece.
9...It did seem that cycling the diff locks was improving the amount of time before the lights would come on, but I can still at best get 200-300 yards before the ABS/INTERLOCK/! and alarm come on. Sometimes the lights precede the diff unloacking and sometimes it doesn't.
10...I took delivery from the Porsche dealer in Indianapolis the first of Sept. They had relaced the clutch slave line. They told me they did NOT have a Hammer and bled the system manually. That was 3,000 miles ago. I wonder if this isn't a repercussion from that disaster?
Thanks everyone for all the help so far. I am determined to solve the puzzle.
Lynn
Here is an abbreviated update of my warnign light adventure:
1...Battery charged 13.8 VDC, battery posts cleaned, battery cables removed and cleaned
2...ABS and diff lock solenoid grounds removed and cleaned.
3...Diff lock solenoids 4 wire connector removed and cleaned
4...ABS control unit connector removed and cleaned corroded termainals at pin 9 (ground, acceleration sensors), 27 (D+) and 28 (Full lock switch)
5...Brake fluid to max mark on reservoir
6...Removed and cleaned spoiler lid ground and rerouted away from coil high tension wire
7...Cycled diff lock in neutral engine on and off with key on. Console switch to engage and you hear a single distinct engage sound. Switch to off and you hear what sounds more like a brief 1-1.5 second ratcheting like sound instead of the single "thunk". Not sure if thats normal or not.
8...Cleaned lateral accelerometer and found it contaminated with fine metal particles and what appeared to be a chewed up piece of very thin .002-.003" copper/brass shim stock. At first I thought it was part of the mechanism, but it was in so many pieces I decide it could be. Whats strange is the only movement I could see was the slight movement that the arm would make in side loads. There is no way it could damage anything in my opinion. I found a pic of an accelerometer another RL member cleaned and low and behold, there was a similar piece of "shim stock" that he had removed from his accelerometer. He also showed pics of it jammed between the steel arem and the magnet. I am wondering if this piece is supposed to be in place over the magnet? But if so, how does it become so buggered up. I am attaching his pics for inspection. See the last picture for the copper/brass shim looking piece.
9...It did seem that cycling the diff locks was improving the amount of time before the lights would come on, but I can still at best get 200-300 yards before the ABS/INTERLOCK/! and alarm come on. Sometimes the lights precede the diff unloacking and sometimes it doesn't.
10...I took delivery from the Porsche dealer in Indianapolis the first of Sept. They had relaced the clutch slave line. They told me they did NOT have a Hammer and bled the system manually. That was 3,000 miles ago. I wonder if this isn't a repercussion from that disaster?
Thanks everyone for all the help so far. I am determined to solve the puzzle.
Lynn
