mjshira

I will let you know when I get the part from Vertex but you can search there and they have some items that are remanufactored such as MAF/AFM, fuel pump, starter, alternator, etc. I realize some of these are commonly redone whereas electronic parts normally are not. My need is for a good working AFM/MAF and for under 300 they had the best price. Pelican was 800+...

Thanks for the link above and for how you always help out.

dfinnegan

Jason, your posts are always so enlightening! Thank you, Dave

mjshira

Here is what I did tonight, tell me what you think. First I fired the engine, it took a couple tries to get her to stay running. Then I removed the top coil wire and the car died. I restarted the car and removed the bottom coil wire, she kept running. Then I turned the engine off and removed the distributer caps and inspected and validated that the distributer belt was intact, it was.

Then I disconnected the o/2 sensor and that made no difference.

Any thoughts?

One thing I should add, I also held the bottom coil wire while it was disconnected near a metal surface and I could hear it firing but it seemed to be firing less than at a normal frequency.

Thanks

dfinnegan

Sounds like coils to me. If you decide to get new ones try to get the OE coils and not the OEM coils. Bosch makes them in Brazil these days and they are not as high a quality.

mjshira

I ordered mine from Pelican, right ones?

dfinnegan

Unfortunately, no. Those are the ones that I have. They seem to be okay, but I keep waiting for them to fail. I feel certain they will given the input I've received around here. Ah well. It's not that much money lost. Especially if it lasts for some months.

By the way, here's a thread that you might find interesting regarding coils.

mjshira

good thread, thanks. I am more and more certain its a coil. The car will run on one coil, not the second coil. so I will replace it when the part arrives. I still have a lingering concern with the AFM so I will replace it.

what are the symptoms of failing cly head temp sensor and reference mark sensor?

dfinnegan

For the CHT I think you need to put a Hammer on it and check the values. Or, a meter and check against the spec:

0'C = 4.4 - 6.8 kOhms
15 - 30'C = 1.4 - 3.6 kOhms
40'C = 1 - 1.3 kOhms
80'C = 250 - 390 Ohms
100'C = 160 - 210 Ohms

Reference Mark Sensor needs an oscilloscope to test, but the gap should be 1mm +- 0.2mm

mjshira

Thank you fellas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Changed the coils and the coil packs (right term?) and it didn't even fire. Then I changed the coil packs back to the bosch units and she fired right up. A sweet sound!

I still have a hunting idle and I've cleaned the idle control valve so that will need replaced. Then I need to install Steve Wong's chip to address the cup car flywheel and also some slight pinging I am getting (this engine is not stock has cams, etc but never got a proper chip...)

So she takes me to work tomorrow... yeah!