Engine out
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Engine out
I searched and found lots of info but because the car is old (89 C4) and has 49k on the clock I wasn't completely sure what to do.
So here's the thing. My clutch is in needing of replacement and as a result the engine will be pulled. A independent mechanic and I will be doing the work and wondered what else should be done while in there. He's where the difference comes in. The previous owner had the maintenance work done at a shop that has closed and I can't get any records (no receipts for work). So seeing how the car is almost 19 years old and has 50k, what should I replace or change. Should I do a 60k service? After my the car has sat for about 2 weeks I noticed a small amount of oil on the garage floor underneath the engine. Looks like it's seeping from the bottom of the engine. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
So here's the thing. My clutch is in needing of replacement and as a result the engine will be pulled. A independent mechanic and I will be doing the work and wondered what else should be done while in there. He's where the difference comes in. The previous owner had the maintenance work done at a shop that has closed and I can't get any records (no receipts for work). So seeing how the car is almost 19 years old and has 50k, what should I replace or change. Should I do a 60k service? After my the car has sat for about 2 weeks I noticed a small amount of oil on the garage floor underneath the engine. Looks like it's seeping from the bottom of the engine. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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thanks for the tip. i will replace that seal. what could possibly be leaking at the bottom of the engine. it looks like where the two manifolds (if that's right) come together. it isn't leaking but rather just a little damp.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
You don't need to pull the engine to replace the clutch.
If you pull it, I'd do a full 60k service and make sure you fix any leaks, check the power steering pump/belt and verify that the engine carrier is still in good shape. Clean and powdercoat the tin if it's getting rusty.
If you pull it, I'd do a full 60k service and make sure you fix any leaks, check the power steering pump/belt and verify that the engine carrier is still in good shape. Clean and powdercoat the tin if it's getting rusty.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Austin TX
Replace all the "external" seals that are easily accessed while motor is out, like front main seal (flywheel side), power steering pump/cam seal, oil pressure sender unit seal, valve adjustment and new valve cover seals - that's about it for the easy ones that commonly leak.
Check out the condition of the clutch plate and flywheel.
Check out the condition of the clutch plate and flywheel.
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Thanks for the tip. Where can I find information/part numbers on these seals? Would you not normally replace the clutch plate when doing a clutch job?
Replace all the "external" seals that are easily accessed while motor is out, like front main seal (flywheel side), power steering pump/cam seal, oil pressure sender unit seal, valve adjustment and new valve cover seals - that's about it for the easy ones that commonly leak.
Check out the condition of the clutch plate and flywheel.
Check out the condition of the clutch plate and flywheel.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Austin TX
Ooops I missed the part where you said the whole reason for this is the clutch 
check the flywheel, then. Didn't 89 C4's have the flywheel with a big rubber center? I don't recall.
If someone else doesn't do it first, I'll get you the part numbers later as that is on a different computer...
check the flywheel, then. Didn't 89 C4's have the flywheel with a big rubber center? I don't recall.
If someone else doesn't do it first, I'll get you the part numbers later as that is on a different computer...
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awesome! i know the fly wheel isn't dual mass. other than that i don't know.
Ooops I missed the part where you said the whole reason for this is the clutch
check the flywheel, then. Didn't 89 C4's have the flywheel with a big rubber center? I don't recall.
If someone else doesn't do it first, I'll get you the part numbers later as that is on a different computer...
check the flywheel, then. Didn't 89 C4's have the flywheel with a big rubber center? I don't recall.
If someone else doesn't do it first, I'll get you the part numbers later as that is on a different computer...
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 18
From: Winnipeg, MB Canada
The best way to buy engine seals for a full reseal is in a kit:
Top end/Cylinder Head (Reinz)
Engine Block/Bottom End (Wrighwood racing)
Timing chain housings (Wrighwood racing)
The wrightwood racing sets are in my opinion the best sets to buy. Reinz is also available for the bottom and and timing covers.
I buy my gasket sets from EBS Racing
http://www.ebsracing.com/
Engine Block
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...0090104W%2Ejpg
Timing Chain
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...10518198%2Ejpg
Cylinder Head
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...10090200%2Ejpg
Kirk
Top end/Cylinder Head (Reinz)
Engine Block/Bottom End (Wrighwood racing)
Timing chain housings (Wrighwood racing)
The wrightwood racing sets are in my opinion the best sets to buy. Reinz is also available for the bottom and and timing covers.
I buy my gasket sets from EBS Racing
http://www.ebsracing.com/
Engine Block
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...0090104W%2Ejpg
Timing Chain
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...10518198%2Ejpg
Cylinder Head
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...10090200%2Ejpg
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; Oct 27, 2007 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Corrected WWW link