Naptown

I searched and found lots of info but because the car is old (89 C4) and has 49k on the clock I wasn't completely sure what to do.

So here's the thing. My clutch is in needing of replacement and as a result the engine will be pulled. A independent mechanic and I will be doing the work and wondered what else should be done while in there. He's where the difference comes in. The previous owner had the maintenance work done at a shop that has closed and I can't get any records (no receipts for work). So seeing how the car is almost 19 years old and has 50k, what should I replace or change. Should I do a 60k service? After my the car has sat for about 2 weeks I noticed a small amount of oil on the garage floor underneath the engine. Looks like it's seeping from the bottom of the engine. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

lvc2

I would have them replace the oil sender seal with the new type. Also, there are some other gaskets near the sender that may need replacement.

Ray
91 C2 cab

Naptown

thanks for the tip. i will replace that seal. what could possibly be leaking at the bottom of the engine. it looks like where the two manifolds (if that's right) come together. it isn't leaking but rather just a little damp.

Tom W

You don't need to pull the engine to replace the clutch.

If you pull it, I'd do a full 60k service and make sure you fix any leaks, check the power steering pump/belt and verify that the engine carrier is still in good shape. Clean and powdercoat the tin if it's getting rusty.

garrett376

On a C4 you'll have to drop the engine and tranny...

1990 Carrera 2

id repack the motor completely while out there seems to be more of a time limit than a mileage limit on most seals

Naptown

excuse my ignorance but what's all involved with a "repack"?

chancecasey

Replace all the "external" seals that are easily accessed while motor is out, like front main seal (flywheel side), power steering pump/cam seal, oil pressure sender unit seal, valve adjustment and new valve cover seals - that's about it for the easy ones that commonly leak.

Check out the condition of the clutch plate and flywheel.

Tom W

Oops, missed that it was a C4. At least the rest of the post is valid.

Naptown

Thanks for the tip. Where can I find information/part numbers on these seals? Would you not normally replace the clutch plate when doing a clutch job?

chancecasey

Ooops I missed the part where you said the whole reason for this is the clutch

check the flywheel, then. Didn't 89 C4's have the flywheel with a big rubber center? I don't recall.

If someone else doesn't do it first, I'll get you the part numbers later as that is on a different computer...

Naptown

awesome! i know the fly wheel isn't dual mass. other than that i don't know.

KirkF

Here is a list of all the parts in a 1989 C4 clutch.

Kirk

Naptown

thanks for the clutch parts list. anyone have an engine seal list?

KirkF

The best way to buy engine seals for a full reseal is in a kit:

Top end/Cylinder Head (Reinz)
Engine Block/Bottom End (Wrighwood racing)
Timing chain housings (Wrighwood racing)

The wrightwood racing sets are in my opinion the best sets to buy. Reinz is also available for the bottom and and timing covers.

I buy my gasket sets from EBS Racing
http://www.ebsracing.com/


Engine Block
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...0090104W%2Ejpg

Timing Chain
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...10518198%2Ejpg

Cylinder Head
http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...10090200%2Ejpg

Kirk