joey bagadonuts

I'm in the same hell, buddy. New Cross setup and can't make it work! Using Hoosiers and running slower lap times. Agghhh!!!

Have you considered swapping out the rears on your own? Certainly easier than the fronts.

Coincidently, I'm running a setup similar to what Geoffery suggests: 564/674 lbs front and rear.
- First time out, got wicked OS
- Swapped from the 22mm rear sway to the 18mm and got better balance, still oversteery
- Finally played with shock settings--that was the problem. Best overall traction over the Road America rumble strips came at setting 4 out of 15.
- Car exhibiting roll-induced oversteer so now I'm back to the bigger rear sway bar.
- Won't track it until this weekend but that seems to be the final piece to the puzzle. Car's nose feels light once again.

FWIW, I'm running 225/275 rubber and -3 degrees front and rear. Front bar, 25mm, is set at one setting stiffer than the middle.

If you haven't tried it, I'd definitely recommend you soften up the shocks and work your way up. That's from the Koni guidelines and they also say that you should run at the softest setting possible which still allows good handling.

joey bagadonuts

Would love to hear other thoughts on the subject.

38D

This is why I drive cars with non adjustable suspensions

joey bagadonuts

Thanks, Colin. Considering all your helpful advice at Putnam, I'll let it slide ... wise guy!

See you at Elkhart!

Larry Herman

For you, non-adjustable is good.

38D

Just imagine how fast I would be if I had all that fancy adjustable stuff

forklift

Hi Joey,

For right now the car *finally* feels PERFECT (except at bumpy Summit Point) so I am just going to leave it for a while. I do plan on doing more of my own work, so next time I will give it a go (removing the rear shocks). I need to tie the springs up still so they don't get hung up when I lower the car.

If you still have OS problems next weekend you might want to give the raise the spring rate in the front like I did. From what I understand you need to start w/ the gross adjusment first so: springs for general mid corner balance, then sways to fine tune (which should get your mid-corner just right), then shocks to fine tune entry and exit. I like to think in extremes, so if you had 100/1,000 lb. springs, you would never be able to dial out the OS w/ sways or shocks. At 750/900 I couldn't dial out the OS, and w/ 900/750 I have US w/ the sways in the middle, but could dial that out the US w/ the sway adjustments...although since my sway bars are maxxed out, I think I will try 900/825 at some point.

Also, I attended a suspension class at TPC w/ Mike Levitas a few weeks ago and Mike went over the fact the the better/closer your shocks are matched, the more bigger the adjustments will be/feel on your shocks. Again think about the 100/1,000. You could move your shocks 14 clicks and they wouldn't do anything, but if you shocks are dialed in, every click you will be able to feel.

Sorry to hear that you are slower on the new shocks w/ hohos...but that WILL change once you get everything dialed in. I know Colin set the WG D record on JIC/Cross (w/ MPSCs!). Although I am still frutrated w/ only finding a second at Summit Point, the JRZs/ERPs/Hohos vs. PSS9s/rubber/RA-1s have helped me find just over 4 (!) seconds at VIR.

I would also recommend hiring a coach to help you if you haven't yet. Chirs Cervelli helped (coached) me a LOT to better understand what is going on with the suspension (and Larry too, thanks Larry!).

Good Luck,

Jim

avorkinn

Back to the question,
The last number of GT Purely Porsche has a great article on 964 RS, the suspension differences on the Euro Cup (M001) and the RS is minor, the springs are slightly softer and the ride hight is 10 mm higher on the RS.

avorkinn

That is actualy best for most of you with a original Cup or RS, a lot of you upgrade the suspension to a state where it has a lot of adjustments and you adjust, adjust and adjust without any improvements.
The standard Cup and RS setup are great and maybe one of the best trackcars ever released for road use.

JC in NY

What do they quote as the spring rates in the article, Cup vs. RS? In reality it is quite a large difference.

avorkinn

They use the words "slightly softer".
Just to clerefy, we are talking about the Euro RS, not America RS as is nothing else then just a slightly lighter C2.

Larry Herman

You're right! I would have to use my imagination.

JC in NY

I know. But the Carrera RS has spring rates of 200/400 lbs/in and the Cup has spring rates of 600/800 lbs/in. Not "slightly softer".

avorkinn

I think you are a bit low on the RS figures? I don't have the excact numbers but I thought the progresive rates for the RS were something like,
Front, 250 - 300 lbs/in
Aft, 400 - 500 lbs/in
But I agree, still not slightly softer.

38D

My old turbo had the non-adjustable RSR setup with 700f / 900r springs (and those MPSCs has 22 heat cycles on them...I kid you not).


I really like the cup setup. Is it perfect? Well, clearly not. But I am far too lazy to swap springs & bars for every different track.


Don't make me post times from the Glen this year!