kgorman

I thought I would post a howto from when I replaced my wheel studs. I have got a couple pm's and emails about it.

Sorry I don't have any pics, but it's easy. Here is what I did ymmv. This is from memory so it may not be perfect. I would call this approach the brute force approach... perhaps someone has a gentler way.

- put car on jackstands
- remove wheels
- per wheel:
- remove brake pads
- remove bolts for calipers, remove calipers. You will need a special allen extender for the rear. I think it's a 10mm allen. I bought a very long 10mm allen key from Sears and cut off the end to make an extension, then I place it into the end of a 10mm socket.
- remove the screw for the disks, then the disks. Be sure to leave the parking brake off in the rear.
- use a 10lb sledge hammer (very diligently) to pound out each wheel stud. I know there is the possiblity of screwing up your wheel bearings. I just used the weight of the hammer to help get those things out. I did not 'swing it' rather just let it hit against the studs. It does not ruin the studs. Know a better way?
- insert the new wheel studs and hit them once with a mallet to keep them in place.
- use an old spacer or a large washer and place it over the threads, then thread on an old lug nut. Grease the part of the lug nut that makes contact with the spacer/washer liberally with axle grease. You may need a couple of spacers depending on where your threads start on the new lugs.
- use an impact wrench against the lug nut to 'pull' the splines into the back of the carrier.
- reverse the rest of the process starting with the rotor.

WMRiceman

I have a little different way of getting the studs out with less pounding. I used a socket just larger than the head on the back of the stud. I then put a large “C” clamp on and put pressure on the stud. One side of the clamp on the socket and the other on the end of the stud. Tap the shaft of the clamp and then tighten the “C” clamp back up. Repeating this will push the stud out. Not as much pounding on the stud. The stud comes out by moving inside of the socket. I did everything else just like you described. Mark

springer3

Be sure to de-grease the mounting flange that contacts the wheel. High friction is desirable there to prevent micro-movement during hard impact. Any movement increases the loads on the studs. For sure there is plenty of safety margin, but why use it needlessly?

kgorman

Good tips.

Chris M.

Thanks for the write-up Kenny. What size are the new studs you installed and where did you get them? Do they only accept open-end steel nuts or do the factory ones still work?

kgorman

I called CDOC. Yes, get open steel lugs to go with them all around, you can't use the factory lugs anymore. I think I went with 56mm lugs. I just added the spacer size + a safety margin to the new offset to get the desired size.