Who here has replaced their own clutch?
#1
Burning Brakes
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Planning for the future here. My C2 is at 105k miles right now. Clutch and flywheel were last replaced @ 36k miles so I'm starting to 'get ready'.
I'd really like (as in enjoy) to learn how to replace my own clutch in the Porsche. Just something I've always wanted to do. I'm not exactly sure how hard it is or how many special tools are needed, but I do have faith in my mechanical ability (though I may hit some snags; which is why I'm researching early)
How do I go upon changing the clutch when the time comes?
What gets changed, exactly? Any special tools? Is this something that is "lift only" as far as putting the car on jack stands?
Anyone with any experience? Please discuss...
I'd really like (as in enjoy) to learn how to replace my own clutch in the Porsche. Just something I've always wanted to do. I'm not exactly sure how hard it is or how many special tools are needed, but I do have faith in my mechanical ability (though I may hit some snags; which is why I'm researching early)
How do I go upon changing the clutch when the time comes?
What gets changed, exactly? Any special tools? Is this something that is "lift only" as far as putting the car on jack stands?
Anyone with any experience? Please discuss...
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#3
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I've managed to replace (actually left the clutch, but replaced the flywheel.....) the clutch in my 90 C2 with a floor jack in my itty bitty garage........ It's straight forward. The only "special" tools I had to find were wrenches large enough to use on the oil lines, and the triple square socket for the flywheel bolts. Everything else is allen sockets, and 10,13 and 17mm wrenches/sockets (maybe a few 19mm's)
I removed the rear bumper, which made it a little easier to get the rear of the car high enough to get the engine/gear box out from under the car.
The Sears ATV jack is just the right size to balance the engine/gearbox and move it around. You don't need an engine stand to do the clutch.
If you have access to the shop manuals, the documentation on removing the engine is quite complete.
I removed the rear bumper, which made it a little easier to get the rear of the car high enough to get the engine/gear box out from under the car.
The Sears ATV jack is just the right size to balance the engine/gearbox and move it around. You don't need an engine stand to do the clutch.
If you have access to the shop manuals, the documentation on removing the engine is quite complete.
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Originally Posted by Indycam
If thats what you look like ,
can I come help you ?
can I come help you ?
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#12
IHI KING!
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I just did mine over the winter. I had three step-by-step guides. Adrian's book, the factory manual and this DIY C4 engine & tranny drop. I also had a good assistant. Some of the tasks are two person jobs.
As for special tools, you need a good set of metric wrenches plus
1) Four (4) tall jack stands (Sears 6 ton models)
2) ATV jack with piece of plywood on top
3) Second floor jack
4) Triple square wrench for flywheel
5) Power bleeder (to bleed the clutch slave cylinder)
6) Lots of carb cleaner & a parts cleaning brush (to clean off the road grime)
7) Torque wrench
EDIT
8) 32 & 36mm wrenches (for oil lines)
It was relatively straight forward. I'm sure you can do it if you take your time and work methodically. Good luck.
As for special tools, you need a good set of metric wrenches plus
1) Four (4) tall jack stands (Sears 6 ton models)
2) ATV jack with piece of plywood on top
3) Second floor jack
4) Triple square wrench for flywheel
5) Power bleeder (to bleed the clutch slave cylinder)
6) Lots of carb cleaner & a parts cleaning brush (to clean off the road grime)
7) Torque wrench
EDIT
8) 32 & 36mm wrenches (for oil lines)
It was relatively straight forward. I'm sure you can do it if you take your time and work methodically. Good luck.
Last edited by Rocket Rob; 05-07-2007 at 08:51 PM.
#13
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I did mine last summer. The factory manual calls for a 36mm crow's foot wrench for the oil line in the wheelwell. If you don't have one (I didn't) you can break it with 36 and 34mm wrenches.
I would change the slave and hose while you're at it. It's another $120 or so in parts but much easier to do with the engine out. I cheated and used a friend's lift which made things easier.
I would change the slave and hose while you're at it. It's another $120 or so in parts but much easier to do with the engine out. I cheated and used a friend's lift which made things easier.
![](http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7822/engineouttf4.jpg)