deoxford

I am make a list of what needs to be done before , I start Tracking the car next March.I need some help with sources and best types for these cars.All the sources
seem to be overseas.

Brakes,
1. Drilled Rotors; Sources , and can Turbos be used ,avg cost
2. Cooling ducts and hardware avg cost

Swaybars,
1. Best type and size , Sources avg cost
Coils/Shocks
1. Best type and size , sources avg cost

I am finding that there a few sources for these cars, so far only one that I have found for the brakes.
Also are the stock brakes calibers going to do well?

This car is for weekends and as many track events as I can efford.

Thanks
Derek

Adrian

Derek,
Is this a another wind up thread?
You have started three other threads with tales of engine woe and suddenly from doom and gloom and no answers to the questions posed, you are off tracking the car in March.
All your questions can be answered by using the search function, reading the wind up thread or by contacting the various Rennlist sponsors to see what offers they have.
Ciao,
Adrian.

deoxford

Adrian.
I am not sure what a wind up thread is.
But these are the questions I have and this is the forum for such questions am I correct?
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Also as my engine is concerd , if you read the last thread I have answered all the questions asked of me.
And I am hoping to have the car back next week.
Any way it does not take three months to fix a engine does it?

Why would I not be able to do some DE's in March?

Once again is this not the forum to ask questions about issues with these 964s?

JasonAndreas

Actually the best sources are here in North America, price and selection wise.


Drilled rotors won't do anything for you but look cool. If you want to swap out for turbo brakes then you will need to do the whole thing including the calipers ($$$).

The hoses running from the cooling ducts through your front bumper will need to be crimped where they meet the front tire in the wheel well. This reduces their effectiveness close to zero. You then have the issue of ducting air into the eye of the rotor (good luck finding a kit). This is mostly a cosmetic upgrade unless you want to run hoses through the front trunk and out through some new holes that you would drill in the body?


Look at what Porsche did with the RS suspension in terms of shock valving, swaybars, springs, etc. To improve upon it for the track AND the road will require big $$$ and reduce your weekend non-track enjoyment. Yes you can swap-in some motons with 600 pound springs but forget about actually driving anywhere but to, from and on the track. PSS9s don't hold up over the long haul and the other adjustable suspensions have similar issues.

deoxford

Jason ,
Thanks for the reply.
I was wondering how to get the duct to the brakes, on my 72 I had a FG duct the replace the stone or dust guard to force air to the rotors. they were great

Steven C.

If you want to do it right you have to get the air to both sides of the rotor like my race car is done. This piece was hand made and had to fit into a 13" wheel. This is what Jason means when he says "eye of the rotor". These rotors are not vented but the same idea.

Bill Verburg

Actually that is not ducting to the 'eye of the rotor'. Rotors are built to have a natural flow from the axle to the edge, the eye is the open area around the axle.

That illustrates a "clamshell" it inhibits the natural flow. It was tried on '60's and early '70's race cars, but is not often seen today.

If it works for you, great.

Anything that gets air into the inner wheel well is a plus, anything that gets the air out through the wheel is a plus, 993/GT3 style A arm scoops and the type of ducting Jason described both help, but as Jason said flattening reduces flow, so I like to truncate before the pinch and be satisfied w/ the air in the wheel well and then rely on the wheels to pump the air out. Porsche has put together an increasingly efficient aero package, year over year, at the front of these cars in the sense that the front is designed so that a low pressure area develops, at speed, out side the wheel well. This also contributes to good flow and brake cooling.

Bull

Wow, I haven't seen that for many moons Kemo Sabe! As BV says, it was often tried 35+ years ago, and I can tell you it never worked for me, or anyone I raced with at the time. I suppose there could be something new going on there, but I can't see it from that picture.

deoxford

Bill,
Doesn't the set up I had on my 72 force the air to the center of the rotor, were the rotors vains will pull the colder air in and send it out to the outer edges of the rotor.
And if so , will it work the same on my 964?
I never had any braking issues after I did that, change fluids and went to a racing pad, with drilled rotors.
Thanks
Derek

Bill Verburg

Yes, Derek yours is feeding the eye, my reponse was to the quoted setup. The design of the 964 up wheel carriers makes it very difficult to feed the rotor eye.

But the scoops are effective, the bigger the better, here is a Cargraphic duct to the eye(or about as close as you can get) and a Ruf scoop

Robert Linton

My idea for a front upright and cooling duct for my 964.

deoxford

Robert,
So what would that cost? That looks very nice..like art almost

Robert Linton

A partial description:

• one piece cast titanium uprights with carbon fiber cooling ducts

• ceramic ball wheel bearings

• titanium adjustable ball joints

• carbon fiber A arms

• titanium/aluminum adjustable drop links

• titanium/aluminum adjustable track rods

• integrated 300M ion impregnated axle/center screws

• titanium centerlock hubs with integrated titanium driving pegs

• 350 mm x 34 mm carbon ceramic brake disks with floating 2618 aluminum bells mounted with titanium bobbin system with air gaps and silver plated K-nuts

• carbon fiber/titanium venturi-effect integrated left and right suspension links, cross-member and under-tray with access door

• titanium fasteners

• carbon fiber/titanium struts with bonded ti-nitrided threaded aluminum sleeves and built in camber adjustments

• true 4-way adjustable/blow off piston titanium/aluminum front dampers with electron beam welded hard chromed titanium strut tubes, titanium hard chromed outer shafts and titanium inner shafts -- connected by Goodridge stainless steel braided Raychem covered hoses with machined fittings with –4 titanium quick disconnects to reservoirs with integral adjusters

• aluminum integrated front spring caps/spacer sleeves/nut sleeves

• beta c titanium main and helper springs with ultra high molecular weight plastic transition pieces

• aluminum 4-way spring rate adjusters with integrated titanium locking mechanism

• aluminum lithium monobloc 8 titanium piston calipers with air gaps, two pads per side, quick release pad pins, titanium quick disconnects in place of bleed screws and titanium quick disconnects in the lightweight stainless steel braided Raychem covered hoses with machined titanium fittings between the calipers and the chassis hard lines and machined Porsche Racing script in white

• 4130 zinc passivate coated anti roll bar with 5-way adjustable 4130 machined ends with Orkot® bushings, titanium bushing stops, titanium mounting brackets and titanium fasteners

• titanium/steel center lock nuts

deoxford

That was brief.....wow

Larry Herman

Robert, that is some impressive hardware. I guess that most of us have a better chance of owning the Hope Diamond than a pair of those.