Brake Ducts With Lights or Without?
#16
Professor of Pending Projects
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Originally Posted by JW in Texas
I like w/o lights as well. A pic of my car is below. I carved up the stock bumperettes to cover up the screw hole on the ducts. They were functional for the brakes when I used to track the car but now they just help get air to the oil cooler & A/C condensor
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#18
Three Wheelin'
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Here's a close up of my cheap ebay ducts.
I love the look of the Carrera 3.8 RS in yellow with the black ducts and also my fog lights were both shattered so i thought i'd give these a go for a while. Ducts are covered with close knitted mesh at the back.
I love the look of the Carrera 3.8 RS in yellow with the black ducts and also my fog lights were both shattered so i thought i'd give these a go for a while. Ducts are covered with close knitted mesh at the back.
#19
Racer
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I have two-piece ducts with hoses to the rotors and that greatly improved standing power of my stock brakes. However, after going for big reds braking is not an issue even all day long on the track.
The ducts were custom made by my mechanic to get the most out of the available space.
And yes, they do a great job at eating flying proteines...
The ducts were custom made by my mechanic to get the most out of the available space.
And yes, they do a great job at eating flying proteines...
![](http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/5273/s1000868dk8.jpg)
#20
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I went with the Techart fog/duct system as used on the euro 94 Turbo S's I wanted to retain some form of fog light. The price is ridiculous and then you need to paint the material which cannot be baked so it took a long time to do correctly. I had Eric from Bumper Plugs paint them and although not cheap he did a perfect job.
The fog lights throw a better light than the factory units although they are VW parts. The brake ducts can only be vented to the passenger side and the A/C condenser would need to be moved to make it work on the drivers side so I ended up venting the oil cooler and A/C condenser which has proven to lower operating temps.
Installation was relatively easy using a dry wall saw to cut out the back portion of the bumper. It is a one shot deal and although i saved the pieces and they could be fiberglassed back in place to remount the old fogs but I like these better.
For the money I don't recommend it but it is a unique look and nice quality package.
Please excuse the bad pictures and messy garage.
The fog lights throw a better light than the factory units although they are VW parts. The brake ducts can only be vented to the passenger side and the A/C condenser would need to be moved to make it work on the drivers side so I ended up venting the oil cooler and A/C condenser which has proven to lower operating temps.
Installation was relatively easy using a dry wall saw to cut out the back portion of the bumper. It is a one shot deal and although i saved the pieces and they could be fiberglassed back in place to remount the old fogs but I like these better.
For the money I don't recommend it but it is a unique look and nice quality package.
Please excuse the bad pictures and messy garage.
#21
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Is there a link to a 'How to...' somewhere for installing the ducts and piping through to the rotors? Seem to recall this sometime in the past, but can't find it.
I have big problems with brakes overheating on track, especially when running sticky tyres (Toyo R888) - they last about 20mins before getting significant fade. I've already put 4-pot calipers on the rear, totally standard at the front, and fresh Castrol SRF fluid. Can't really justify Big Reds at the moment so anything else to help cooling would be good. My specialist also recommended using drilled rotors - does this make much difference?
I have big problems with brakes overheating on track, especially when running sticky tyres (Toyo R888) - they last about 20mins before getting significant fade. I've already put 4-pot calipers on the rear, totally standard at the front, and fresh Castrol SRF fluid. Can't really justify Big Reds at the moment so anything else to help cooling would be good. My specialist also recommended using drilled rotors - does this make much difference?
#22
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Originally Posted by IanR
Is there a link to a 'How to...' somewhere for installing the ducts and piping through to the rotors? Seem to recall this sometime in the past, but can't find it.
I have big problems with brakes overheating on track, especially when running sticky tyres (Toyo R888) - they last about 20mins before getting significant fade. I've already put 4-pot calipers on the rear, totally standard at the front, and fresh Castrol SRF fluid. Can't really justify Big Reds at the moment so anything else to help cooling would be good. My specialist also recommended using drilled rotors - does this make much difference?
I have big problems with brakes overheating on track, especially when running sticky tyres (Toyo R888) - they last about 20mins before getting significant fade. I've already put 4-pot calipers on the rear, totally standard at the front, and fresh Castrol SRF fluid. Can't really justify Big Reds at the moment so anything else to help cooling would be good. My specialist also recommended using drilled rotors - does this make much difference?
Check the How to posts at the bottom of the forums I believe Mark Shaw has another of his great how to posts.
Did you try changing pad compound. This can lower temps considerably.
#23
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Thanks Cobalt - Mark's post shows fitting the ducts in the bumber, but not the routing of the duct pipe through to the brake rotor. I haven't tried different pads yet - once these have worn down (they're OE) I think I'll do that.
#24
#25
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Originally Posted by Superunknown
#27
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Originally Posted by 911addict
Anthony (Cobalt)
As ever your car looks immaculate...
What, no stone chips? You aren't driving it enough ;-)
As ever your car looks immaculate...
What, no stone chips? You aren't driving it enough ;-)
Yep no stone chips. The original owner of the car had clear bra installed all over the car within a few months of purchasing it. This included the hood, front bumper, front and rear winglets, side rockers around the headlights and Headlight rings. The car is driven hard but the clear bra has saved my paint. When I got the car a few years back I didn't know it had the clear bra until I received it. It had yellowed and I thought it had ruined the paint. I had it all removed and found original paint in perfect condition. So I had a friend who installs the stuff reapply it everywhere. I can now safely drive it without worry. I actually had to replace the hood piece 2 more times as I had rocks hit with such force it left a scratch in the film 6 inches long. When I removed the film the paint was unharmed.
The best of both worlds I can drive and show the car and it always looks good.
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