Advice pls: looking at a 964 for first Porsche . . . have questions
#16
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Originally Posted by springer3
What flunked? Get the repair cost off the price, and you get a car you like with everything fixed (assuming it is fixable of course).
Curious as well as to what was wrong...
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A test i remember for identifiying worn valve guides when i owned a 3.2 carrera was:-
when engine fully warmed up accelerate hard and the lift off the gas when changing up gear whilst looking in the rear view mirror for a puff of smoke.(better if you can get someone to follow you if practial)
when engine fully warmed up accelerate hard and the lift off the gas when changing up gear whilst looking in the rear view mirror for a puff of smoke.(better if you can get someone to follow you if practial)
#19
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The three big problems were: through bolt O ring leaks, a little smoke on startup, tired clutch. I have no problems paying a premium for a car in premium condition, or paying less for a car with issues. I showed them a number, but I doubt that selling to a well informed buyer is in the best interest in a used car dealer. I.e., I'm sure that someday some dope with more money than brains will come in and hit the offer. Anyway, I appreciate the advice and help from you guys.
#20
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Originally Posted by UncleRemus
The three big problems were: through bolt O ring leaks, a little smoke on startup, tired clutch. I have no problems paying a premium for a car in premium condition, or paying less for a car with issues. I showed them a number, but I doubt that selling to a well informed buyer is in the best interest in a used car dealer. I.e., I'm sure that someday some dope with more money than brains will come in and hit the offer. Anyway, I appreciate the advice and help from you guys.
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#21
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They're not terrible . . . I won't get bent out of shape if they don't come down to my number, but I do trade for a living. I will say that I wouldn't feel comfortable enough to buy a car from tehm without a PPI, but that's teh cardinal rule anyways . . .
#22
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Only thing I would like to add is the smoke on startup thing.
If you dont let the engine get rid of the oil in the crankcase before turning it off some oil will seep past the rings in a flat configuration engine, producing smoke on the next startup. Mine will. If I let it idle a bit before turning it off then it will never smoke on startup.
If you dont let the engine get rid of the oil in the crankcase before turning it off some oil will seep past the rings in a flat configuration engine, producing smoke on the next startup. Mine will. If I let it idle a bit before turning it off then it will never smoke on startup.
#24
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Originally Posted by UncleRemus
Hey, Wachuko, I knew I recognized your ID! I had an R32 and hung out on Vortex as well. Good to see you here.
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Let's know what you end up with
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#25
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Actually my 1990 C4 had an oil leak prior to me buying it - caused by three sheared head studs, apparently. Had turbo ones fitted as part of a top end rebuild, since then (2004), no probs.
The mechanic who did the rebuild (JAZ) said it wasn't that uncommon, although mine is the only one I've heard of.
The mechanic who did the rebuild (JAZ) said it wasn't that uncommon, although mine is the only one I've heard of.
Last edited by porktastic; 11-17-2006 at 09:16 PM.
#26
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DISCLAIMER: By posting this link, I am in no shape or form submitting the content as fact. I simply thought I would post what I found in my research on the valve guide issue.
Valve guide PCA discussion
Valve guide PCA discussion