kgorman

I took my car in for this issue with brake fluid leaking. The shop advised to replace the pressure accumulator ($724), slave cylinder 964 339 775 07 ($667), and horizontal lock cylinder 928 332 775 12 ($570). Prices are all including labor. Once complete they advised that they will most probably have to drop the transmission because they found that the 'actuator' that depresses the slave cylinder looks to have too much extension an will 'blow out' the slave cylinder seals again. They were starting to say I might need to drop the transmission. They did the work for the components, but then changed their tune saying 'everything is actually fine', no need to drop the transmission. I looked in PET and the shop manual, I don't see any data regarding this 'overextension' or any measurement that the slave cylinder must conform to. They said the horizontal lock cylinder generally needs replacement when this is done, so I went ahead.

Sounds fishy!

My questions are:

- do those parts really all have to be replaced? Can't the seals just be replaced? Did I get suckered?
- has anyone heard of this 'overextension' problem? Does what they are saying make sense?
- is it true the horizontal lock cyl 928 332 775 12 needs to be replaced generally with this service?

Man, I feel like I got suckered. $2400 out the door.

DaveK

I'm not an expert on clutches - but I am very surprised you needed all those things for a simple leak. It also seems strange that they changed the accumulator - which I thought was brake related only - and te slave cylinder - which I thought was clutch only (although I realise they use the same fluid).

I thought you only needed a new accumulator if it failed the pressure test - I had mine checked many years ago (and it passed).

Why did they not simply tell you where the leak was from and replace the offending part?

Youcef

I thought the diff lock actuator( horizontal lock) might be the culprit for the leak as mine had leaked also, I simply replaced the offendiong part as Dave mentioned. At the time mine leaked I did try to find a seal kit, I was advised there was not one available for the diff locks.

It a bid odd to me that they would change the brake accumulator and slave (which one?) for what reads to me as a leaky diff lock.....might be good to ask a few questions like what is the actuator that depresses the slave and where. Would be nice to know how they came to think the accumulator was leaking.

colo964

Look at pg 141 of the parts catalog. The 928 part is the transverse (horizontal) and the 964 part is the longitudinal, both run off the accumulator - 1500 psi or more. I think the overextension they are talking about is: inside the tranny, these two slave cylinders have plungers that press on plates to lock the shafts. As these plate wear out, the hydraulic fluid jacks the plunger with no resistance from the plate and all the force is taken by the metal end cap of the slave cylinder - which is aluminum. If the area is 1 sq inch thats 1500 lbs on a thin piece of aluminum - not good.

Like so many modern parts, rebuilding is not seem to be an option - the thing lasted 17 yrs damnit, so what's $500?

I had my transverse seal leak; in retrospect I should have gotten the axial replaced at that same time. I think you paid good money for both slave cylinders, but the accumulator???.

garrett376

I would think that which is broken, needs to be fixed! A lock slave cylinder is not mentioned on any maintenance schedules as far as I've heard. As mentioned before, which was the part that was leaking? Only the longitudinal slave cylinder - then just replace it and bleed the system!?

A slave cylinder has no travel adjustment - it just pushes as far as it can, limited by what it's pushing against! If your differential plates are worn out, you'd have different issues usually noticed by the PDAS warning system, so I strongly doubt they're referring to your plates being worn in the differentials. You had a leak, not a PDAS functionality issue.

If possible, get your old parts back. Even further, if you'll mail the old slave cylinder to me (I'll pay you back for postage) I can see about taking it apart to look at its seals - never know what kind of rebuild kit might just work - especially when it's now a $400 part. I've rebuilt many a caliper and master brake cylinder... so it should be possible to rebuild ($20 vs $400).

garrett376

Pelican has the lateral lock cylinder for $377.36, which is usually list price. The longitudinal slave is $405.19 from Pelican. That's approx. $608.45 for labor! It would probably take me 45 minutes max to change those out if I worked slow, with a floor jack, and had to remove the undertrays! I am glad I don't need to pay for labor!!!

The brake pressure accumulator is $237.75... yowzers that's $486.25 in labor for that part!

Sorry that doesn't help your feeling, does it?

Indycam

Can I work on your car next time ? I've got my eye on this dive boat ......

kgorman

oh man, I am a moron.

I also found out that Kahlers has been sold. I will not be going back there any more.

Garrett, do you think I should take it to another shop for a 'sanity check' to make sure that everything is 100% or is there something I can do to myself to make sure I am all good to go?

thx everyone for the continued schooling in all things porsche.

JasonAndreas

The clutch slave cylinder has a single pressure seal and an accordian dust seal so i can't imagine these being that much more complicated? I won't bother posting how I learned this.

garrett376

From pressing on the clutch pedal without the cylinder installed on the transmission so it blows its guts out? Hmm... I've got experience with that, too

garrett376

Have they replaced everything already?

mooty

i will avoid khalers then, they are close by to me as well.
hard to find goo mechanics now days.

kgorman

Yes, they did. I am very sure I got ripped at this point. I will go back over the invoice and post the breakdown so we can crituque. Hard lesson learned for me.

JasonAndreas

Ya something like that only I was wedging a reverse clamp between the driver's seat and the brake pedal to set the brake master cylinder at a little bit past the halfway point so I could disconnect the rear calipers without losing any fluid. I must've been on autopilot because I heard a "thunk" aginst my garage door and then it clicked in my head that I was on the wrong pedal.

MarkD

Sorry to hear the trouble Kenny. I know the feeling. You can file a report with the BBB if they won't be reasonable and if you think it is appropriate. The BBB doesn't help much but at least it sits on their record as "unresolved" for others to see in the future.
Also too bad Kahler's changed ownership. They seemed to be a good independant...