SUCCESS!!! Diagnostic Interface... And Codes!
10-09-2006 | 10:06 PM
#18
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Originally Posted by dfinnegan
that hole is where the vent kit plugs in
Talk about feeling stupid! Sheesh... I just went out and found the hose hanging down and out of sight... It's plugged back in now.Thanks!
10-09-2006 | 10:35 PM
#19
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Florida
The 'Hall Signal' error sometimes pops up when there's a lot of ignition noise caused by a bad primary wire, plug wire, coil or the like. I've seen a couple of 964s that had worn primary wires--they had been rubbing on the deck lid ground strap. There's been a few instances of bad coils causing this error mentioned on this list.
Corroded contacts or broken wire at the sensor connector is another culprit.
-doug
Corroded contacts or broken wire at the sensor connector is another culprit.
-doug
10-09-2006 | 10:51 PM
#20
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From: USVI
Originally Posted by Smokin
Originally the Climate Control menu kicked out, 24 - Fresh Air Flap Motor... 42 - Oil Cooler Blower Motor.... 45 - Inside Sensor Blower Motor.
I was so excited about this working that I forgot to get a screen shot of all these codes. I cleared all codes and code 45 - Inside Sensor Blower Motor... kept coming back.
I was so excited about this working that I forgot to get a screen shot of all these codes. I cleared all codes and code 45 - Inside Sensor Blower Motor... kept coming back.
Code:
Code Fault area
Repair steps
11 Inside temperature sensor
break; present
Erase fault memory. Switch on A/C-heater fan control for at least 3 seconds with ignition on. Read out fault memory. If fault still present replace control unit
11 Inside temperature sensor
break; not present
Same as above. Try to locate possible loose contact by moving control unit and wiring in the area of the temperature sensor.
12,13 Left and right mixing
chamber temperature sensor, present
Erase fault memory. Switch on controls for at least 35 seconds. Read out fault memory. If fault still present replace affected sensor.
Code Fault area
Repair steps
12,13 Left and right mixing chamber
temperature sensor; not present
Erase fault memory. Switch on controls for at least 35 seconds. Read out fault memory. If fault still present replace affected sensor. Try to locate possible loose contact by moving wiring and sensors.
14 Evaporator temperature
sensor
Same as for fault codes 12, 13.
15, 21 Rear fan temperature sensor
and oil cooler temperature sensor
Same as for fault codes 12,13. Wiring harness connectors must also be checked when locating possible loose contacts. Refer to wiring diagram for locations of harness connectors.
22, 23, 24, All drive links; present
31, 32
Visually inspect drive motors and wiring connectors. Connect wiring plug to another drive motor (drive motor on heater system or spare motor) to determine if motor is defective. If motor is not defective, try a different control unit (see note on page 1) to localize fault area. Replace defective part. Erase fault memory. Select drive link menu and operate drive motor several times. Read out fault memory again.
22, 23, 24, All drive links; not present
31, 32
Check wiring connectors on drive motors for corrosion and tight installation. Erase fault memory. Select drive link menu and operate drive motor several times. Read out fault memory again. If the same fault is displayed, replace drive motor.
Code Fault area
Repair steps
Important: Before activating fresh air flap motor, set controls to max. cold and A/C switch off (not pushed).
33, 34 Heater fan motor left and right
Fault indicates excessive temperatures, defective final stage or wiring plug. If fans are not operating, check wiring plug. If necessary, replace final stage. If fans are operating, erase fault memory and operate fans in switch position "1" for approx. 5 min. Read out fault memory again. If same fault is stored, replace final stage.
41 Condenser fan seized;
present
Fault indicates voltage at fan motor is less than 22% battery voltage. Check fuse No. 39 (30A). If fuse is defective, check fan for free movement. Replace fan if binding. If fuse is OK, check condenser fan resistor and wiring for breaks.
41 Condenser fan seized; not
present
Fault indicates previous, temporary fan binding or seizure from outside influences. Erase fault memory.
42 Oil cooler fan seized; present
(fan not operating)
Fault indicates voltage at fan motor is less than 30% battery voltage. Check fuse No. 2 (30A). If fuse is defective, check fan for free movement. Replace fan if binding. If fuse is OK, check oil cooler fan resistor and wiring for breaks.
42 Oil cooler fan seized; not
present
Same as 41.
Code Fault area
Repair steps
Note: On turbo vehicles, the following codes 43 and 44 refer to the right, and 46 and 47 the left rear fan motor. 911 Carrera 2/4: All codes refer to one rear blower motor. From Part Number 964 659 047 01 control units are identical for 911 turbo and 911 Carrera 2/4. Therefore, on 911 Carrera 2/4, two codes are displayed for one fault. The same text is displayed with different fault codes. For instance, code 43 and 46 or code 44 and 47.
Codes in parenthesis are displayed on 911 Carrera 2/4 in pairs if control unit 964 659 047 01 is installed. One code is displayed on 911 turbos depending if fault is one left or fight rear fan.
43 (46) Rear fan motor speed "1"
seized; present
Rear fan only operates at speed 2 and fresh air fan only operates at switch position "max. cold." Open circuit in rear fan motor resistor. (Voltage less than 44% battery voltage).
43 (46) Rear fan motor speed "1"
seized; not present
Fault indicates previous, temporary fan binding or seizure from outside influences. Erase fault memory.
43 (46) Rear fan motor speed "1"
positive short; present
Voltage on rear fan motor is higher than 93% battery voltage while operating at speed "1". Rear fan motor, wiring plug or fuse defective. Open circuit on fan motor ground connection. Fault usually occurs in conjunction with code 44 (47).
43 (46) Rear fan motor speed "1"
positive short; not present
Check for loose contact
Code Fault area
Repair steps
43 (46) Rear fan motor speed "1"
positive short/ground short
Combination of both.
44 (47) Rear fan speed "2" seized;
present
Rear fan does not operate. Check fuse and wiring plug for fan motor. If both OK, check fan motor. Fault usually occurs in combination with fault for "speed 1 ".
44 (47) Rear fan speed "2" seized;
not present
"Not present" can be displayed even if fault is present if fan motor was not activated when switched off. (Will be changed with future update). Follow same steps as above. If fan is operating (indicates previous, temporary binding) erase fault memory.
45 Inside temperature sensor fan
motor signal unplausible; present
Inside temperature fan motor does not operate. Possibly mechanical damage. Replace fan motor.
45 Inside temperature sensor fan
motor signal unplausible; not present
Usually temporary fault only relevant if customer complains about inside temperature going down after approx. 15 min. driving time. Turn ignition on-off several times and check operation of fan.
Note: If ignition is switched on less than 30 sec., fan run on is 10 seconds. If ignition is switched on longer, fan run on is approx. 20 minutes.
Code Fault area
Repair steps
46, 47 Rear fan speed "1" or speed "2"
seized; present
Originally Posted by Smokin
For some reason I can't get it to work with my laptop using the PCMCIA - Serial card
Originally Posted by Smokin
When I plugged in the first time on the Motronic menu I received the following code... 34 - Hall Signal.
Originally Posted by frankvan
The program only connects with the C4 ABS module, or so I've been told.
10-10-2006 | 12:02 AM
#21
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Jason... Thanks for the good info! By the way... Since I did the adaptation the idle is a little more stable and I haven't had it stall on me yet! 
By the way... Where did you get the printout on the codes? Just curious....
By the way... Where did you get the printout on the codes? Just curious....
10-10-2006 | 01:21 AM
#22
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From: USVI
Originally Posted by Smokin
Where did you get the printout on the codes?
Code:
D. Symptoms of Some Faults Diagnosable from Operating Pattern
1. Fuse for rear fan motor defective
Starting position: Heater fan switch position 3- 4 and temperature switch "max cold".
Test Step: Set temperature switch to "max heat".
Result: Heater fan off. Cars with control unit part number "...01 ": fan switches to half value. 911 turbo:
Fan speed decreases only on side of the defective rear fan.
Remark: To determine acoustically reduced fan speed, open only the two side air vents. Close all other vents.
Switch back temperature control to "max cold.". Heater fan switches on again.
Fault Rear fan speed "1" seized;
Memory: present Code 43/46 and Rear fan speed "2" seized; (not) present Code 44 (47)
2. Rear Fan Motor or Wiring Plug Defective
Starting position: Heater fan switch position 3- 4 and temperature switch "max. cold".
Test Step: Set temperature switch to "max. heat"
Result: Heater fan off. Cars with control unit part number "...01 ": fan switches to half value. 911 turbo:
fan speed decreases only on side of the defective rear fan. Switch back temperature control to "max. cold". Heater fan switches on again.
Fault Rear fan motor speed "1"
Memory: positive short present Code 43
(46) and Rear fan speed "2"
seized; (not) present Code 44
(47).
3. Rear Fan - Resistor Open Circuit
Starting Position: Heater fan switch position 1, 4, temperature switch "max. cold", all air vents closed, only one center vent open.
Test Step: Set temperature switch to "max heat".
Result: Heater fan off. Rear fan motor speed "2". After 5 seconds, rear fan switches off for 1 second. After an additional 5 seconds, heater fan switches on again.
Fault Rear fan speed "1" seized (not)
Memory: present. Code 43 (46)
4. Rear Fan Motor - NTC Open Circuit
Starting position: Engine cold, fan switch position "1", temperature switch "max. cold".
Result: Rear fan operates in speed "1" only.
Fault Temperature sensor, rear fan
Memory: motor open circuit present Code 15
10-10-2006 | 09:15 PM
#24
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,879
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
YEEeeeeeHhhhaaaaaaa!
I FINALLY figured out what the problem was with my PCMCIA card! I needed to enable the FIFO buffers and increase both the Tx & Rx FIFO interupt trigger levels as well as the receiver FIFO flow control thresholds! After maxing out the settings I tried it again and it worked like a charm! I am SOOOO relieved. I was about ready to buy another laptop on ebay. Now I can drive down the road and collect data. I stopped by Radio Shack and bought a project box so I can handle it a little more without the worry about it breaking. I think I'm also going to solder an LED on the PCB to show when power is active.
Tonight I am going to swap out the DB9 connector on the interface that I made and give that one a shot. Hopefully it will work just like the one from ecufix.com. If it does... I already have another board ready to solder together. (I think I already have all/most of the parts needed) These, if they work, are already spoken for. I promised 2 Rennlisters first crack at them if they want them.
I'll post back with the results of the hand built PCB...
I FINALLY figured out what the problem was with my PCMCIA card! I needed to enable the FIFO buffers and increase both the Tx & Rx FIFO interupt trigger levels as well as the receiver FIFO flow control thresholds! After maxing out the settings I tried it again and it worked like a charm! I am SOOOO relieved. I was about ready to buy another laptop on ebay. Now I can drive down the road and collect data. I stopped by Radio Shack and bought a project box so I can handle it a little more without the worry about it breaking. I think I'm also going to solder an LED on the PCB to show when power is active.
Tonight I am going to swap out the DB9 connector on the interface that I made and give that one a shot. Hopefully it will work just like the one from ecufix.com. If it does... I already have another board ready to solder together. (I think I already have all/most of the parts needed) These, if they work, are already spoken for. I promised 2 Rennlisters first crack at them if they want them.
I'll post back with the results of the hand built PCB...
10-10-2006 | 09:47 PM
#25
Burgled
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From: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va.
Rick
My interface wont run without the notebook being pluged in. When I run it in the car I plug it into a converter connected into one of those portable jumpstart batteries. Its such a PITA to use the cig plug in the car!!! I got my box at radio shack also.
My interface wont run without the notebook being pluged in. When I run it in the car I plug it into a converter connected into one of those portable jumpstart batteries. Its such a PITA to use the cig plug in the car!!! I got my box at radio shack also.
Last edited by jimq; 10-10-2006 at 10:35 PM.
10-10-2006 | 10:03 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Jim... Yup... I got the same exact box. I noticed that the PCB is just a little too big to fit into the box properly. Do you hold the cover on with just 2 screws? I was thinking about dremeling the box for a snug fit.
I just tried my home-made PCB and it didn't work.
I'm sure it has to do with the way I routed the wires. I could swear that I read that the wires go to different pins with the home-made version. I need to go back and re-read the original thread... Again!
Jim... On your laptop... Try to change the Tx & Rx levels in device manager. It may help out!
I just tried my home-made PCB and it didn't work.
I'm sure it has to do with the way I routed the wires. I could swear that I read that the wires go to different pins with the home-made version. I need to go back and re-read the original thread... Again!Jim... On your laptop... Try to change the Tx & Rx levels in device manager. It may help out!
10-10-2006 | 10:35 PM
#28
Burgled
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From: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va.
I dremeled out 2 of the screw pegs and then made a slot for the 9 pin to fit in. I had to cut down the metal outer cover of the 9 pin connector so the female side would fit snug to the pins. I also got 2 new slightly longer connector screw in pins so I could tighten the 9 pin down firmly. In my finished box the board is facing up like in my picture. You also need to dremel down the 9 pin end of the top cover where the lip is. The 2 screws in the back will then button everything up tight. I drilled a small hole in the cover so the LED shows when power is connected. I put the wires thru shrink tube into a rubber grommet going into the box.
10-10-2006 | 10:38 PM
#29
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,879
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Originally Posted by hawk911
Rick, I am one of the 2 rennlisters in line for the homemade version?
10-10-2006 | 10:39 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,879
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From: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Jim.. .Try cutting the other leg of the remaining LED and you might get it working with your laptop without having it plugged in. I cut both of mine off the board.