sundog

During my recent suspension upgrade, i managed to destroy the metal brake lines that run from the caliper to the flexible brake line on both front wheels. It seems like the lines are corroded to the fittings, and don't rotate freely when removing them.

Does anybody have any ideas on how to prevent this from happening? I'm worried that it will happen when trying to disconnect the flexible brake line to the solid lines going toward the master cylinder, as these are probably harder to replace.

In addition, does anybody know a source for the lines that I broke, other than Porsche, as they must be shipped from Germany! Part numbers, 964-355-581-03, and -582-03.

Thanks!

warmfuzzies

Sundog,

I gave up on this and made my own replacements, cost £1/ft for the pipe, 50p each fitting, and £12 for the pipe flaring tool.
Now I can make my own and don't have to worry about that kind of thing.

Kevin

Marc Shaw

I broke mine on removal too - I ordered them from Vertex and they arrived very fast (cheap too).

The ones I could not remove, I had my mech remove for me -- he could not get them apart either and ended up chasing the front lines back to the bulk-head at the cylinder (by the front left wheel) and replacing those lines too. Also not expensive and from Vertex too.

Marc
p.s. when I re-assembled it all, I put a tiny smear of copper anti-seize paste on the fittings (not enough to clog the lines!) so hopefully the will come apart more easily next time.

JasonAndreas

Porsche now uses a thick black coating on the hard lines.



They are actually pretty easy to change. Threading the long line that connects to the right side is a little hairy because of the master cylinder but not too bad. If you don't want to replace the hard lines and everything is corroded to hell it is possible to cut the soft lines and to use a 6-pt socket on the fittings. You can then twist everything (caliper & lines) back into place.

GG Allin

Ask your local dealer to do a search for a set. I twisted mine also a few months back and was able to get a set from a dealer in New Orleans.

tgage

I tore mine up while upgrading the rubber lines to steel lines. I went over to the local autozone and found one the right length, then used a pipe bending tool to replicate the original bends. It took me longer to figure out which length to use then to fit it back onto the car. I'll look around the shop for the spare to see if I can get the length for you. It was real inexpensive.

IanR

A good quality flare wrench makes a big difference as well. After rounding off the flats on two hard brake line fittings using a cheap spanner, I invested in a Snap-On flare wrench, which has probably paid for itself in savings on brake lines.

Marc Shaw

Yup, that is what mine looked like - I thought the older ones had a coating (copper?) on them to prevent corrosion.

Marc

KirkF

I just removed all four of my calipers.
Despite judicous use of heat and line wrenches, I destroyed all four brake lines.
Someone had already been at the front ones and rounded off the nuts, and the back ones would not spin on the line so they just twisted the line off.

But really at $14 USD each, it isnt worth fighting with them very long before you just cut them and replace them.

My car is a money pit anyways. I just call it a hobby now and dream it will move again one day.

Kirk

JasonAndreas

The lines are made from a copper-nickel alloy called Cunifer. I don't know what the new black stuff is but if it is anything like the other new corrosion coatings that Porsche use it will be a huge improvement.

Have you had the, "it's falling off the jackstands" nightmare yet?

Crystal Cranks

I'm In the process of replacing my flexible line at the moment and it looks like the hard lines are going to give me some trouble.
I have no problem replacing the ones to the calibers as this will be easy.
My problem is the hard lines on the other end of the flexible lines going to the bulk head (especially the rear right that disappears around the back of the gearbox) looks like it would be imposable to replace without moving the gearbox out of the way.

So my question to any of you guys who have done this is has anyone replaced these lines on the right of the car that travel across the car to the bulkhead on the left without removing half the car.

jim_l

I fashioned the short ones from local parts, i also replace the rear hard lines ordered the parts from sunset. there a tee fitting by the transmission i was able to work the new lines in place without removing anything. i think i did come up with a few new curse words in the process. BTW mine's a tip.

Metal Guru

Use liberal application of PB Blaster or Kroil on the fittings, followed by heat using a propane torch. Heat only the fitting, not the line and do not get it red hot.
When removing the flex lines from the hard lines mounted to the body, twist the flex line while holding the fitting on the hard line stationary.

Crystal Cranks

Jim, Thanks for that, it's good to know that it is possible to route the line around the gearbox without moving anything, mine is a manual would i have as much room as a tip.

MG, Heat is next on my list. Twisting the flex line flex line while holding the fitting on the hard line stationary will work on the back lines but am I right by saying this will not work on the front because of the D shaped fitting.

Metal Guru

My rears have the D fitting but the hole in the mounting bracket was big which allowed the D fitting to rotate freely.
I have new flex lines for my fronts but won't be installing them for a couple of weeks. Hope it's the same configuration as the rears.