How to prevent damage to brake lines
#16
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rancho Palos Verdes CA
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I always put just a dab of anti sieze when installing. Even then they seem to be always tight when removing.
Get a good flair wrench and heat is always a good idea. I like PB Blaster too...
Get a good flair wrench and heat is always a good idea. I like PB Blaster too...
#17
Nordschleife Master
I had to replace that line that fits to the flexible hose and runs along the transmission tunnel as I wrecked it at the coupling. I bought it ready made from Porsche. It is a work of art and consequently very expensive! I then made sure I didn't wreck the other end by sawing through the brake line so that I could get a hex socket on the coupling to undo it.
#20
Thanks for the replies, OK I got them all undone (Steve you don't have to fly over to help me fit that line over the gearbox) except the one on the front left between the flexible line and the chassis as this was easily replaced I ordered it and experimented with it before I tackled the others.
I got all the short lines between the caliper and flexible lines undone but decided to replace them anyway as they are not very expensive even the original Porsche parts.
For anyone else doing this here's what I found to be the best way to undo seized lines while fitting new flexible lines.
1, Soak in penetrating fluid (for a couple days)
2, Cut flexible lines at fittings
3, Heat (Do not heat near flexible line if you plan to re-use them, and make sure you cut the line to release the pressure before heating or else...... BANG, don't ask how I know)
4, Along with your flair wrench's get a pair of grip wrench's (Irwin) Pictured below.
Technique - These lines will not come loose by just turning on the wrenches YOU WILL ROUND THE NUTS, they have to be shocked or jolted loose.
Clamp your Irwin grip wrench on the 11mm hard line nut and wedge something against the handle make sure there is no give, fit your flair or closed wrench on the other side and hit firmly with a rubber hammer this will brake loose the fitting while holding the hard line steady. Undo from the flexible side.
Hope this helps anybody else doing this job.
New lines should be here Monday so hope to get finished up next week.
I got all the short lines between the caliper and flexible lines undone but decided to replace them anyway as they are not very expensive even the original Porsche parts.
For anyone else doing this here's what I found to be the best way to undo seized lines while fitting new flexible lines.
1, Soak in penetrating fluid (for a couple days)
2, Cut flexible lines at fittings
3, Heat (Do not heat near flexible line if you plan to re-use them, and make sure you cut the line to release the pressure before heating or else...... BANG, don't ask how I know)
4, Along with your flair wrench's get a pair of grip wrench's (Irwin) Pictured below.
Technique - These lines will not come loose by just turning on the wrenches YOU WILL ROUND THE NUTS, they have to be shocked or jolted loose.
Clamp your Irwin grip wrench on the 11mm hard line nut and wedge something against the handle make sure there is no give, fit your flair or closed wrench on the other side and hit firmly with a rubber hammer this will brake loose the fitting while holding the hard line steady. Undo from the flexible side.
Hope this helps anybody else doing this job.
New lines should be here Monday so hope to get finished up next week.
#21
All back together again, maybe just one more brake bleed to firm up the pedal a bit more after I drive it a bit.
Nice new (to me) 4 pot rears thanks to Frank (frank 993 c4s), 4 flexible and 5 hard lines fitted.
No more brake squeal, no matter what I did the old 2 pots would squeal.
Now whats next on the list.
Nice new (to me) 4 pot rears thanks to Frank (frank 993 c4s), 4 flexible and 5 hard lines fitted.
No more brake squeal, no matter what I did the old 2 pots would squeal.
Now whats next on the list.