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Don't be afraid to bleed

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Old May 17, 2006 | 01:46 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jeff522
One thing that really made it go faster was a little mod to the power bleeder.If you drill a small hole and install a valve stim you can us a compressor or air tank to charge the system .Saves a lot of time pumping.You can also do the same thing to an old fire extinguisher for summer fun.
Unless you have a good regulator on the compressor and can get accurate and consistent pressure down to 10 - 20 psi this can be fatal to your reservoir and perhaps the master.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 06:43 AM
  #17  
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I fabricated my power bleeder from an antifreeze overflow reservoir and a brake fluid reservoir cap (from a Jetta I think) from a wreck using compressed air from my compressor - worked great. The antifreze reservoir has its' own built in pressure relief valve built into the cap for radiator pressure (around 13 psi).Then I eliminated the antifreeze container and supplied compressed air right into the brake reservoir cap. I set the compressor between 10 and 20 psi, made sure the reservoir is topped up and never runs dry and the compressor fitting swivels - that also worked well.

Last edited by darth; May 17, 2006 at 07:54 AM.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 10:36 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by camber799
Not a problem. Counter-rotate the adapter about one turn before screwing it on to the master.
Yeah, I figured that out pretty fast but found I had to counter-rotate it by a good 3-4 turns so that the hose did not get all twisted. It just seemed un-necessarily awkward to try not to drip brake fluid on the paint from the adapter.

Marc
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Old May 17, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #19  
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I put a rubber hose on a bleeder, opened the bleeder screw, and let gravity do all the work. Brown fluid flowed at first. By the time the reservoir was down to half, the fluid was clear and blue. I bled the clutch circuit the same way. I had other projects going on, and would top up the reservoir about every 15 minutes until done. It is very slow, but effective. Brake action has been excellent. My hanging clutch pedal stopped hanging shortly after bleeding the system. If you have air in the system, you need some velocity to move it out. For flushing the fluid from a system that does not have air in it, the gravity method is simple and effective. I find there is much less chance of accidental introduction of air, because it is easy to top up the reservoir.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 12:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by springer3
I put a rubber hose on a bleeder, opened the bleeder screw, and let gravity do all the work. Brown fluid flowed at first. By the time the reservoir was down to half, the fluid was clear and blue. I bled the clutch circuit the same way. I had other projects going on, and would top up the reservoir about every 15 minutes until done. It is very slow, but effective. Brake action has been excellent. My hanging clutch pedal stopped hanging shortly after bleeding the system. If you have air in the system, you need some velocity to move it out. For flushing the fluid from a system that does not have air in it, the gravity method is simple and effective. I find there is much less chance of accidental introduction of air, because it is easy to top up the reservoir.
I've tried gravity bleeding and it is slow and it doesn't do a great job at getting all the air out. Air will rise to the highest point in the system unless something pushes it out.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by camber799
I've tried gravity bleeding and it is slow and it doesn't do a great job at getting all the air out. Air will rise to the highest point in the system unless something pushes it out.
Agreed. My post says gravity is hopeless if there is already air in the system. And yes, it is very slow, about 30 minutes per location, but if you are busy in the garage anyway, it does not require constant attention.
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