bwoodry

OK H&R or Eibach,, However I do not want to lower the car too much, just an inch in front max,,. Since I drive the car daily I must contend with 25 speed bumps each day so I do not want to drag the front end . just a slight lowering is all I need ,.

With this in mind what is recommended?

Thanks

Bob

greenjt

Good question Bob. I have a steep driveway so don't really want to lower but am considering new shocks. What to do, what to do....?

last toy

Bob W.
If you really want to keep the stock springs but change out the shocks and lower the ride, you can purchase a set of lowering collars from www.perfectpowerinc.com for $360. Thay can take a Porsche down 3 inches if desired and if the shocks can handle it. However, they apparently can't be used with Bilsteins per one of our members who tried them, Mbrouder. If interested going this route, call perfect power and talk to Sol to find out what brand shocks the collars work with. He can advise you better. No matter what you do, you will need another corner and height alignment to to make sure the front to back slope is ideal.

InTheAir

Bob -

If you are going to lower the car, make sure you lower both the front and rear. You need to maintain the proper profile from front to rear; otherwise, you may introduce aerodynamic problems and weight distribution problems.

Dana Anderson

Also not to hi-jack this thread, but has anyone with H&R springs and likely older shocks noticed a distinct druming noise when the rear hits expansion joints (or dummy bumps) on hiway?

I'm not sure of my current shocks, sounds like they are in need of replacement, but I'm trying to figure out if the noise is rear shock/spring or motor mounts.

Mike_964

My C2 from 1991 has original shocks and dampers, originally delivered from Porsche with a sport setup: 20mm lovered, higher gas-pressure, stiffer stabilisators.
It drives like a dream. On the track I can follow new Turbos around the corners, and in slalom competitions I can place my self among the top 3 in a group of new cars. On the german autobahn it can max out without feeling unsafe, and in corners at high speed it always seems safe.
But now you all say that an old setup like this is way overdue to be changed?
I think I'll wait a season as I have some other projects pending, but man I look forward to changing the suspension, cause it must be no less than fantastic to drive a car with updated suspension.
My body has a 5 year old 996 with sports suspension as well, and there aren't much difference in handling, but as mentioned earlier 5 years are also overdue....

Wachuko

Maybe is all the wine from last night... but after reading this thread I am as confused as before...

ok... so for my already lowered car.... that is runing on stock items after 50k+ miles. What should I buy... and be as specific as possible (if you have part numbers please post them...).

viperbob

If you want an alternative using the factory springs with Bilstein HDs, you can use the new ones from the 993. They come with 30mm of additional thread in the front so you can lower the car an additional 2.5"s. These have the same valving, as the 993s use the front 964 springs. But their is one differnece. The lower bottom bolt on a 993 is an M14 (which is what they went to on the '94 3.6T) instead of the M12 on a 964. So to properly mount this, you would expand the lower hole. This strut would also have another benefit. It would allow you to use the nut pack for the strut on the 993. Essentially the nuts for the back side are put together in a steel bracket that means you no long have to hold the nuts when tightening the two main bolts.

Just wanted to pass this alternative along.

last toy

Bob, good alternative. Avoids spending $360 for lowering collars. Will this 993 set up apply to a C4 suspension which is different than the C2 as I understand it.

viperbob

The 993 units Don are a little more expensive than the 964 models, but it still winds up as a cost savings. Also, the 993/964 HD units are the same for C2/C4.