kgorman

Hmm, my intention was not to post about how I want to upgrade to more power, so I can go faster around the track. Clearly that (as Tom points out) is not the best path. Agreed seat time is. Simply, I was just curious about the different engine upgrade paths and the results from them.

Regarding dyno posts and power, I guess I am starting to see that there is really not much that can be done to these cars to get large gains. It appears that really once you are looking at ~280-300 hp you have tapped the most out of this car w/o dumping really huge money. I guess thats really the answer I am looking for.

The other big improvement obviously is to loose weight. As that improves not only speed, but braking and handling. But that has been covered in lots of threads.

Marc Shaw

With all due respect to Tom and others who posted here, the original question was not "how do I become a better driver" or "how do I get faster lap times"?

I think the question asked is a reasonable one - regardless of the end-user's reasons for wanting increased power.

The same thing occurs everytime Big Reds are mentioned, several people will all sing in chorus "you don't need them" - so what? If someone wants them, let'em go for it - these are not practical cars anyway so why does everything have to be practical or rationale?

Marc

Heirsh

My route for reasonable power relatively stock (which I will probably never actually do):

1. Cat bypass
2. one of the muffler bypasses (I'm thinking secondary for easier engine access)
3. A custom burned chip based on my car on a dyno. This would have to be done by a seriously reputable source.

This is assuming the engine is in good shape and worth doing this to rather than saving to rebuild.

Just my .005 dollars

Lorenfb

"With all due respect to Tom and others who posted here, the original question was not "how do I become a better driver" or "how do I get faster lap times"?"

Tom's post basically has to key points of reality:

1. You'll get a better return on your time/money invested if you spend it on DE
sessions for bottom line lap times or just for doing the twisties on the weekends.
2. All the basic mods, e.g. sport muffler, CAT bypass, air filter sponge, or
the frequently mentioned "custom mapped chip for JUST my car" provide little
especially for the later Porsches, i.e. 964/993.

pauline964

First steps after I bought the car:
-K+N
-MAF
-otherwise stock (at that time)

Dynoed 26.08.1994 it had 300,56 hp (at 39°C).

P.S. OT
kgorman, I have a S4 Avant myself - great car isn't it, new RS4 Avant is due end of the year

Eggplant Cab

I bought my 94 C2 Cab in Nov 93. I went to Ruf in Pfaffenhausen to see what could be done on the sly during euro delivery and be brought back to the US. I put in KN filter immediately (left over from my 90 targa) and it dynoed at 254hp at the flywheel. Dunno if the KN filter made the difference over stock. I never did any mods and last year I dynoed it with the fabspeed airbox cover and KN at 245hp, which was exactly the same as 4 years ago when I dynoed it without the airbox cover. It has 55k on it.
I too am interested in modifying the car slightly for a bit more ompf since I couldn't over take a WRX wagon last month.I'm limited by not wanting to mess with the cat so I know 10-15hp is about as much as I can get from the car. A chip, MFA, exhaust should get me there. So I'll update my progress once I get my butt moving on the mods.

Marc Shaw

I have yet to see a dyno showing they provide an increase in power (the topic of this thread) but I have also yet to see one that they don't either.

Marc

Eggplant Cab

Marc, besides engine age and condition, are there other reasons why mods work on some engines but not others? You'd think it would be universal given a healthy engine.

tonytaylor

My C2 with large bore throttle body, MAF, custom rechip and cat bypass independenty dyno'd at 298bhp which appears to be in line with similarly modified cars.
There's a body of opinion that the 964 injectors won't support much over 300hp no matter what you do as they're running at maximuim capacity at this level.
On one side of the argument changes as mine , rechips et al are worth doing as they're not expensive but on the other hand for a road car you quickly get used to the small increase in power and the driving experience remains the same as before the changes so the whole exercise is rather pointless.
IMO for a road only car, if you are going to modify, the only thing I would do is forced induction; Supercharge if funds are limited and turbocharge if price is less of a factor. I'd leave the rest of the car stock as the standard setup is a good comprimise for the road. It doesn't matter if other modified 964s are marginaly better handling or braking since with forced induction you're going to be a mile ahead on every straight.
The track is a different enviroment entirely and since putting mine there I've found there are many better ways of improving performance on track than increasing power as Tom has pointed out. Having said that changes in power to weight are really obvious on track because your shift points change and your end of straight speeds are clearly greater.

Christer

The best dyno run at 9M for my car was 315rwhp on one particular day. When I had it back there to service, swap out brake discs (ouch) and do some fine tuning on the Motec, it achieved around 309rwhp but I think some torque was found in the mid-range instead. I don't have the dyno print for that one though. I have spent a lot of time working with 9M on my car, as I also think it was one of the earliest cars that went further than their Motec +1 package. In the future, maybe I will take advantage of other's development rather than funding my own