Bad Hall Sensor NEED Distributor
03-23-2006, 08:22 PM
#16
Advanced
Thread Starter
It was deff the distributor. After stopping by the dealer I saw the car running fine on a used dist with my caps/rotors/wires. I found as used one for $400 so I guess I have to go that route. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
03-23-2006, 09:45 PM
#17
All the posts on this thread are right-on in suggesting that the Hall sensor
may not really be bad. Remember, the engine will run fine without it,
but just defaults to the non-sequential injection mode.
The belt, though, must be replaced or that ignition system must be disabled
my unplugging its ignition module.
may not really be bad. Remember, the engine will run fine without it,
but just defaults to the non-sequential injection mode.
The belt, though, must be replaced or that ignition system must be disabled
my unplugging its ignition module.
03-23-2006, 11:16 PM
#18
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by 951 S
I found as used one for $400 so I guess I have to go that route.
03-24-2006, 12:48 AM
#19
Advanced
Thread Starter
Loren,
I dont know what else to do if the car runs good with another distributor. The machanic agreed with everyone else on the board as far as its usually not a bad distributor but something else causing the hall sensor code to come up. He eliminated all the other possibilites when he swapped distributors, he also checked the dist. blet for correct timing.
Jason,
If you are good with that stuff then i'll give you a shot at it when I swap it out.
I dont know what else to do if the car runs good with another distributor. The machanic agreed with everyone else on the board as far as its usually not a bad distributor but something else causing the hall sensor code to come up. He eliminated all the other possibilites when he swapped distributors, he also checked the dist. blet for correct timing.
Jason,
If you are good with that stuff then i'll give you a shot at it when I swap it out.
03-24-2006, 01:50 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
dis
it could be that when someone replaced the belt the pins were not all the way locked in the plastic plug, check to see if they are in there firm, could of broke off barb on pin. you can buy brand new one from napa, ect just need the right part number which i can get if you need it. the dealer sells recondition but you can get new for same price if not cheaper. check the pins on the connector and make sure they are positively ingaged.
03-24-2006, 03:24 AM
#21
If you have the time, send it to Jason. He should be more than able to resolve
any problem with it if there really is one.
The 964 has a very "bullet-proof" engine management system. The typical problem
which usually comes up as a Hall code results from ignition RFI, i.e. spark plug
connectors, wiring, or the spark plugs themselves. I just tested a 964 DME today
where the shop claimed it was bad because of random CELs. That's generally the
the case, and the unit always checks O.K. When run in another 964, no CELs.
Bottom line: Always be absolutely sure about replacing costly ECU parts.
any problem with it if there really is one.
The 964 has a very "bullet-proof" engine management system. The typical problem
which usually comes up as a Hall code results from ignition RFI, i.e. spark plug
connectors, wiring, or the spark plugs themselves. I just tested a 964 DME today
where the shop claimed it was bad because of random CELs. That's generally the
the case, and the unit always checks O.K. When run in another 964, no CELs.
Bottom line: Always be absolutely sure about replacing costly ECU parts.
03-24-2006, 12:22 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
just to illustrate how weird this ignition system is....consider my experience.
car was running "fine"
it started an unusual kind of miss where it was like an on off switch was being flipped...it progressed to not running at all. then the following was observed:
it would run fine (smoothly) on the seconary ignition only (primary switch unplugged)
it wouldn't run at all on the primary ignition (secondary switch unplugged) only
it would run with a miss when the secondary coil was driving the primary dist
it would run smoothly when the primary coil was driving the secondary dist
it wouldn't run at all with everything wired up normally
it turned out to be an unplugged spark plug on the primary side. it had been that way and running for quite some time
i don't really think it's EMI that causes these weird behaviors. seems there's something on the primary side different than the secondary side. if you switch the coil drivers, the cars will not run....implying the two ignitions are not identical
car was running "fine"
it started an unusual kind of miss where it was like an on off switch was being flipped...it progressed to not running at all. then the following was observed:
it would run fine (smoothly) on the seconary ignition only (primary switch unplugged)
it wouldn't run at all on the primary ignition (secondary switch unplugged) only
it would run with a miss when the secondary coil was driving the primary dist
it would run smoothly when the primary coil was driving the secondary dist
it wouldn't run at all with everything wired up normally
it turned out to be an unplugged spark plug on the primary side. it had been that way and running for quite some time
i don't really think it's EMI that causes these weird behaviors. seems there's something on the primary side different than the secondary side. if you switch the coil drivers, the cars will not run....implying the two ignitions are not identical
03-24-2006, 03:49 PM
#25
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
All the posts on this thread are right-on in suggesting that the Hall sensor
may not really be bad. Remember, the engine will run fine without it,
but just defaults to the non-sequential injection mode.
may not really be bad. Remember, the engine will run fine without it,
but just defaults to the non-sequential injection mode.
Sometimes it actually is the hall-sensor that went bad.
03-24-2006, 05:25 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
what does the car run like with a bad hall sensor?
03-24-2006, 06:06 PM
#28
Originally Posted by dougn
what does the car run like with a bad hall sensor?
It goes on to say that if the Hall sensor fails the engine will not start and the distributor assembly will need to be replaced.
03-24-2006, 06:26 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
when i unplug my hall sensor, the car starts right up....
03-24-2006, 10:52 PM
#30
"when i unplug my hall sensor, the car starts right up...." - dougn -
He's right on! As I said, the DME mainly only needs the Hall sensor for
sequential injection. It could be used for the knock system, but DME
can easily remember which cylinder caused the knock and adjust its
timing on that next cylinder firing.
He's right on! As I said, the DME mainly only needs the Hall sensor for
sequential injection. It could be used for the knock system, but DME
can easily remember which cylinder caused the knock and adjust its
timing on that next cylinder firing.