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Lowering Springs first time DIY

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Old 01-27-2006, 01:21 PM
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GG Allin
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Is that normal for their to be no pressure on the front springs?
Someone tell me, I'm new at this. The perches are set sort of low.
Old 01-27-2006, 01:54 PM
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Jeremy Pinsly
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There has to be SOME pressure on the springs, otherwise they would bounce around while sitting on the shock/strut. Jim and I reused all of the parts that came off our old suspensions. Make sure you use an anti-seize lubricant when reintalling the bolts. Check the rubber sleeves for the shocks for cracks and/or tears---you will want to replace these if they show signs of age. I would go for the spring compressor tool like Jim mentioned....safety first, even though it is a DIY.

Also, get someone to help you reinstall the shock/strut assembly when it's time to go back into the car---it will make your life much easier......Right Jim?
Old 01-27-2006, 02:02 PM
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jimq
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Pinsly
Also, get someone to help you reinstall the shock/strut assembly when it's time to go back into the car---it will make your life much easier......Right Jim?
yea someone 20 years younger
Marc its not hard. Take the airbox off, remove the rear blower and thats it up top. Its tight in there so you do need to move some hoses and brackets out of the way. The bottom is just the one bolt. Use a breaker bar and it will come lose. Like Jeremy says it really is easier if you have someone up top to start the nuts back on. You need to shake them a bit to get them to drop down.
Old 01-27-2006, 02:12 PM
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C4Russ
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The $669 price for struts/shocks shipped is a very good price and you should replace them now. Unless you have receipts showing your current struts to have under 20K miles, replace them.

The effort you are going through will only have to be repeated after your first test drive.
Old 01-27-2006, 02:21 PM
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josephaiello
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Marc,
I did the rears. Very easy. It helps to have a universal joint and a universal with 13mm socket attached to one end. Also, have several different lengths of extensions for the 3/8 drive. I used an air ratchet which helps.

Joe
Old 01-27-2006, 02:47 PM
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GG Allin
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On the issue of no pressure on the springs. I noticed a long time ago that when the car was in the air the springs would be loose. Is that normal? Both sides are like this. Obviously when the car is on the ground they would then be compressed. When I put them together with the lower springs I'm guessing there will be even more room.
Old 01-27-2006, 03:06 PM
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viperbob
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When extended, there is virtually no pressure on the nuts. Not enough to even worry about.
Old 01-27-2006, 03:07 PM
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josephaiello
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Loose springs doesn't sound right. When mine is in the air they are not loose. Maybe the perches were lowered too much to lower the car and that allowed the springs to become free when fully extended.

Joe
Old 01-27-2006, 03:13 PM
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Marc Shaw
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Originally Posted by josephaiello
Marc,
I did the rears. Very easy. It helps to have a universal joint and a universal with 13mm socket attached to one end. Also, have several different lengths of extensions for the 3/8 drive. I used an air ratchet which helps.

Joe
Not so easy so far....I already had the rear blower out to replace the CHT sensor so undid the 3 top nuts (starting on the left side) but I STILL can't get the lower bolt removed - this despite gallons of Liquid Wrench and beating on it with a 700 ft.lbs Snap-On air-driven torque wrench......it isn't a left-hand thread, it is ( )?

I am nervous about heat as I think the arms (?trailing arms) are aluminum.

Any other ideas? I am going deaf from listening to this torque wrench pound away.

Marc
Old 01-27-2006, 03:32 PM
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MarkD
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From what I have read you need some serious leverage on that bolt. A very long, beefy breaker bar... or put a pipe over a smaller one.

I will be doing this soon also since I just got word the HR springs finally came in. Looking forward to it!
Old 01-27-2006, 03:37 PM
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josephaiello
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On the lower bolts, I couldn't break them with an impact. I had to use a 3-4 foot extension on my 1/2" ratchet which finally popped the bolts.

Joe
Old 01-27-2006, 03:46 PM
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warmfuzzies
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I had the very same issue,

I drilled mine off, old trick, small drills getting larger till they break through teh wall of teh nut, then hey presto off she goes.
I did however use spring compressors to make sure I still have all my sight......

kevin
Old 01-27-2006, 03:53 PM
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MarkD
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Do most folks replace the hardware when doing the rears?
Need to go to dealer for this I assume?
Old 01-27-2006, 03:54 PM
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jimq
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Originally Posted by 92964cab
From what I have read you need some serious leverage on that bolt. A very long, beefy breaker bar... or put a pipe over a smaller one.

I will be doing this soon also since I just got word the HR springs finally came in. Looking forward to it!
Thats what it took to get it off both cars. A 4' heavy pipe on a i/2" rachet. Try on an off pressure and that may shock it loose as opposed to constant. Not reverse threads but remember to go up on one side and down on the other
Old 01-27-2006, 04:15 PM
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GG Allin
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This is good readin'. I'll be doing all this next week. I just ordered new Bilstein HD's. What the hell. I asked earlier didn't see any response. But, The upper strut mounts have a little bit of play (they wiggle) Is this normal or should they be replaced too?


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