"Loose" clutch pedal problem
#1
Burning Brakes
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My clutch is working fine, but the top part of the pedal's travel is loose and it seems to need some sort of adjustment. Basically, there is a lot of play in the pedal for the first couple cenitmeters of travel, but after that it is fine.
Another way I can explain it is that the clutch pedal is VERY light to push in for the first centimeter or so. What I mean by "VERY light" is that the first cm of travel is just "play". Once past that first very loose area, it hits sort of a "threshold" and the clutch is resistant to depress as normal. From there on, the rest of its travel has the normal "clutch pressure" that I'm used to. Car shifts well all the time though.
I should note that there has been an increasing amount of this "play" in the pedal for the past several months. I'm wondering what the problem is and how/if it can be fixed? It seems to be there has to be something that can be adjusted to "tighten" the clutch pedal so there is no play before actual clutch engagement.
Thnx again,
Harry
Another way I can explain it is that the clutch pedal is VERY light to push in for the first centimeter or so. What I mean by "VERY light" is that the first cm of travel is just "play". Once past that first very loose area, it hits sort of a "threshold" and the clutch is resistant to depress as normal. From there on, the rest of its travel has the normal "clutch pressure" that I'm used to. Car shifts well all the time though.
I should note that there has been an increasing amount of this "play" in the pedal for the past several months. I'm wondering what the problem is and how/if it can be fixed? It seems to be there has to be something that can be adjusted to "tighten" the clutch pedal so there is no play before actual clutch engagement.
Thnx again,
Harry
Last edited by Euromagination; 12-28-2005 at 01:41 PM. Reason: Accuracy
#3
Jarhead
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Have you stuffed your head down there to take a look? I know there's a way to adjust the tension on the helper spring for the pedal, but I'm not sure if that would allow the play you're talking about. There are so many little pieces in the pedal assembly, it might be easy for one or two pieces to have deformed.
Brian
Brian
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i replaced my slave and master and still i have what you are describing. There is a bit of a dead spot in my old master and my new master cylinder (brake). The old one's boot was pushed off to the side exposing the cylinder, so I thought it was bad (the dead spot). The new one still has it though.
I don't know for sure. It could be a bit of air left in there that I haven't been able to get out. I think, after playing with the master, that its just designed that way. I think you have to push the cylinder in a bit before it actually pushes on the piston. This would be a way to make sure the system was being even slightly actuated and thus dragging and spinning stuff all the time needlessly. This is just speculation and chatter and my experience with my car only.
I don't know for sure. It could be a bit of air left in there that I haven't been able to get out. I think, after playing with the master, that its just designed that way. I think you have to push the cylinder in a bit before it actually pushes on the piston. This would be a way to make sure the system was being even slightly actuated and thus dragging and spinning stuff all the time needlessly. This is just speculation and chatter and my experience with my car only.
#5
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I think Hiersh is correct, you should have a tad of play before things start to engage.
If it the pedal keeps getting harder to de-press as time goes on, I beleive it's probably the Slave clyinder going. That's what happened on '93 C2 some months back.
Bill
If it the pedal keeps getting harder to de-press as time goes on, I beleive it's probably the Slave clyinder going. That's what happened on '93 C2 some months back.
Bill
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Yes, there is a normal amount of free play in the pedal for the first couple of cm. It still would not be a bad idea to take few precautionary steps to ensure things are in order. Pull the dust boots back on the master and slave cylinders to check for escaping fluid. If these areas are damp or appear to have any sign of moisture, then you may want to consider replacing both the master and slave at the same time. Another thing you might want to replace is the rubber line to the slave, just because it's old.
Duncan
Duncan