Hawk,

Do you think that the gasket is contributing to your idle/start issue? Mine is a little loose too.

 

no; just wondering. I plugged the hole with my finger over it, and no difference, so I'm sure it's not a gasket issue. Kris thought it might be my sensor, as that seemed to resolve his idle issue, but not the case for me. Still just looking for ideas- cheap ideas.

 

I'll post as soon as all the family clears out after the holiday and I can get some quality time in the garage to install it.

Marc

 

The temperature sensor and the heater tube have nothing at all to do with engine, intake manifold or ECU. The only thing the sensor does is to control the rear heater blower. From the dealer mechanic training manuals (not the workshop manuals), "Ballast resistor (R) is located in an air guide on the pressure end of the rear heater blower. The ballast resistor holder is engaged in an opening of the air guide. A NTC temperature sensor (T) is located in the same air guide. The temperature sensor can be removed by turning it 90'. Temperature sensor (T) switches on the rear heater blower independent of the above mentioned blower switch positions:

At approx. 45 ... 75'C in basic stage (9 V)
< 40'C basic stage off
> 75'C to max speed stage
< 70'C max. speed stage off

If the ignition was turned on for at least 30 seconds, temperature sensor (T) activates pertinent after running of the heater blower which could be max 15 minutes long on a stopped car (ignition off). Electronics of heater/air conditioner controls monitor temperature signals up to 15 minutes after the switching-off of blower after-running or after turning off the ignition. Heater blower after-running with temperature > 95'C and ignition turned off.
After-running switched off at approx. 93'C"

and I learned I might actually get my transmission back before the end of the year.