We just want to get them set so they are drivable to the place we will get CB and alignment. Jeremy needs to drive 120 miles home to have his done so want it set in a safe stable position.

 

You can use the settings in my book, or you can use others which maybe more aggressive. Depends what you want to do. I do not recommend the RS settings if you are just normally driving around, especially in winter.
Of course the limiting factor is the type of suspension components you used. You may not be able to get down to RS height settings, due to many variables such a compatibility of components used with the suspension system.
What I strongly recommend is that corner balancing and alignments are done professionally using the correct equipment and with the 964 set at the correct weight for the job.
This is the only way to get the utmost best out of the 964 and the changes made.
Remember the 964 is still capable of 160mph and a badly setup 964 might not be noticeable at 60mph, but believe me if you try a very high speed run with a badly setup 964 it might be your last. Incorrect weight distribution adversely affects traction, handling and braking.
Ciao,
Adrian.

 

Jim,
There is no such thing as a safe stable position. The installation job is either done correctly or it is not.
I would concern yourself with picking a ride height front and rear and setting it up so the 964 is level side to side and front and rear.
Ensure everything is correctly installed and MOST importantly, every single fitting is correctly torqued up.
The settings can be tweaked later and Jeremy has to ensure he drives home at a safe pace after he has done a test drive and is satisfied it feels right.
Ciao,
Adrian.

 

Adrian,

I had my car corner balanced and ride height adjusted at a Porsche shop after I did the install myself. I photocopied the page from your book with the alignment settings for the RS, and they put the car to that height, and that camber. They also corner balanced it then and got within the factory tolerances.

I recommend this course for anyone doing the suspension change. I couldn't be happier, and I feel that the car is now properly setup and safe.

 

Aye, kgorman... following your path... even the same shop for the corner balance and align.
Though I'm not sure of the RS specs... I won't be tracking mine (it's a cab) so I don't think the extra camber is needed. Only basing that decision on what little common sense I have.

Just waiting for the dern springs to show up. Apparently they were backordered.

Again, I appreciate the great info you shared in that post.

 

Adrian, thanks for the response. I have a '92 cab, with H&R Trubo springs and Bilstein HD shocks. I'd like to go RS, as I only drive the car in warmer weather (no snow). I'm okay with a little extra camber if I don't wear thru tires every year.

 

Ok, this is Jeremy signed in under Jim.....
We've got the suspension on but the car is still up on the lift. Tomorrow morning we're gonna bleed the brakes and the clutch slave cylinder.

I read a previous thread that Garrett posted regarding the location of the clutch slave cylinder, but I can't find it. Do I need to be UNDER the car to get to it, or is it reachable from the side? It looks like there is a cover that needs to be removed--is the slave cylinder INSIDE of this cover?

Pics would be helpful if anyone has additional pics. Geoff, I may have to call you on this one. I appreciate your help earlier today!!!

 

The clutch slave cylinder


is located directly on top of the transmission (red arrow is pointing to where you will find it)


You don't need to remove the rubber cover unless you are replacing the slave cylinder and need to align the plunger with the release fork.



To give you an idea the hex driver is standing in for the slave cylinder



The easiest way to bleed the cylinder is to get under the transmission, reach around and remove the valve cap (but unlike the photos you want to leave the slave cylinder attached to the transmission)

 

Thanks alot Jason as usual. We are back out in the garage buttoning up Jeremy's car, bleeding the system and then starting on mine. Took about 6 hours to do the change out. No real surprises except we couldnt get the brake lines apart to replace them.

 

Well, with Jim's hands, hospitality, help and perseverance, we were able to complete the suspension change on my car. A few phone calls to Hawk along the way were needed to make sure we were doing things properly, but Geoff was extremely helpful and I am thankful that he was there when we needed him.

Jim's 91 tip was a pain in the butt to remove the left rear upper suspension mounts. Much more difficult than my 90 manual. I think there were a lot more oil lines and such in the way of removing the bolts inside the engine compartment. The front struts come in and out easy. On Jim's car, we cut the brackets that hold the oil line to the strut so we didn't have to break the lines and bleed the system. Smart move, Jim. Why did Porsche design the oil line to have to be removed if you need to change the front struts? Doesn't make sense to me.

I drove the car home about 120 miles, averaged about 70 mph, with people blowing by me like I was standing still. Car felt great, stable. It definitely needs an alignment, but I was really suprised how well it felt at speed. Appointment is set for tomorrow morning for the alignment and corner balance.

Pictures will follow after the alignment is complete. Car sits much lower. The front strut perches were set all the way at the bottom. I will post ride height info after the corner balance is finished.

So, Geoff, and especially Jim, thanks for all of your help getting this DIY completed.

RENNLIST ROCKS!

 

Went to Autozone and found a new front boot after searching everywhere. Dealer wanted $22 ,didnt have one, and got one that works the same for $7 after shortning it a bit. Now I have all the shocks mounted and ready for final hook ups and tires. Of course I found a nail in my new rear tire. Taking care of that in the morning along with setting up an appointment for corner balance and alignment. Jeremy is right about all the hoses and brackets on the rear left. We had to remove the big main one and bend over a smaller one and it still was near impossible. The nuts came right off Jeremy's but mine had to have been put on by Hildas big sister!! Almost was ready to give up before the fiirst shock was off. 2 suspensions in about 12 hours isnt to bad for a couple of rookies I think. Big thanks to Hawk when we took something apart without pictures first! Took 3 calls I think. Sorry we bothered you at work but we were desperate!! I will buy you a drink the next time you come down!
Rent a spring compressor, have the right tools and a impact wrence. It will make the job go a lot easier. Everything is torqued down and ready to go.
Thanks for all your help and putting up with my tantrums while dealing with the rears on mine Jeremy

 

now guys; where are the pictures????? Glad to help, but I have to say thanks to rob for instructing me so well that I could offer any help at all. Once again; Rennlist rocks!!

 

Geoff, you know what all that stuff looks like!!!!

Pics forthcoming....

 

Jim, no problem.....I'll be your helper anytime...

 

Jeremy, did you put the brace on right away too?