Car not running
dfinnegan: Yes, just disconnect the cat. If the car starts, seems like that would have isolated your problem to the cat. If not, then it's something else. The "Check Engine Light" coming on is a signal that something is wrong with the emissions. You might need a Hammer to check for codes but clean the negative battery cable first.
I've found some time for diagnostics.
It's not the battery cables. I've disconnected and removed the battery. I cleaned the battery posts and both connectors with a purchased battery post/connector cleaner. I also sanded down both ends of the negative cable and all of the connectors that go with it. No change.
It's not the AFM/ISV. I've removed the AFM and checked all of the cables (!). I did not check the ISV because the AFM was squeaky clean. This leads me to believe that the ISV will also be clean. I didn't want to undo the "pinch" hose connectors again.
Dave
It's not the battery cables. I've disconnected and removed the battery. I cleaned the battery posts and both connectors with a purchased battery post/connector cleaner. I also sanded down both ends of the negative cable and all of the connectors that go with it. No change.
It's not the AFM/ISV. I've removed the AFM and checked all of the cables (!). I did not check the ISV because the AFM was squeaky clean. This leads me to believe that the ISV will also be clean. I didn't want to undo the "pinch" hose connectors again.
Dave
I've begun to look into the distributors. I removed the cap for the number two cables. All of the wires are marked "II-#" on this, the upper cap. The wires on the lower cap are all marked "I-#".
Any way, I removed the cap and rotor (very carefully as I've read here). It seems to me that the cap is burnt. There are black "burn" lines on every contact within the cap. The rotor is slightly burnt. Not really black. The contact "edge" of the rotor is rough. It definitely does not appear that either of these two pieces (the rotor and the six cap contacts) are contacting cleanly. Though, to be sure, I don't know how close these are supposed to be. Should they touch? If so, this doesn't look "right" to me. I have some pictures I'll try and post in a moment. My camera died while I was taking shots.
Also, I did not go deep enough to see if the belt between the two distributors is broken. I tried looking through the hole where the vent line hooks up. I can see a small toothed gear, but no belt. Should I be able to see a belt through this hole?
How do I pull the internals of the distributor? It appears that there is a circ-clip and three philips head screws. Is that how to get to see the belt?
Thanks for any and all input. I'll post picks as soon as I get them uploaded.
Cheers,
Dave
Any way, I removed the cap and rotor (very carefully as I've read here). It seems to me that the cap is burnt. There are black "burn" lines on every contact within the cap. The rotor is slightly burnt. Not really black. The contact "edge" of the rotor is rough. It definitely does not appear that either of these two pieces (the rotor and the six cap contacts) are contacting cleanly. Though, to be sure, I don't know how close these are supposed to be. Should they touch? If so, this doesn't look "right" to me. I have some pictures I'll try and post in a moment. My camera died while I was taking shots.
Also, I did not go deep enough to see if the belt between the two distributors is broken. I tried looking through the hole where the vent line hooks up. I can see a small toothed gear, but no belt. Should I be able to see a belt through this hole?
How do I pull the internals of the distributor? It appears that there is a circ-clip and three philips head screws. Is that how to get to see the belt?
Thanks for any and all input. I'll post picks as soon as I get them uploaded.
Cheers,
Dave
Pull the distr. caps and turn the motor over briefly to see if both rotors are turning.
In reading this thread my first thought (other than the thingamabob that controls the whatchamacallit was fried) was that perhaps the distributor belt had broken.
However, the pics you posted just look likea really worn cap and rotor... I would have thought you would see one contact toasted if the belt had broken.
If it breaks at the wrong time and leaves the rotor in a bad spot it can sit there and fire one cylinder over and over again.... that's bad.
Can't wait to hear what ends up being the problem.
Mark
In reading this thread my first thought (other than the thingamabob that controls the whatchamacallit was fried) was that perhaps the distributor belt had broken.
However, the pics you posted just look likea really worn cap and rotor... I would have thought you would see one contact toasted if the belt had broken.
If it breaks at the wrong time and leaves the rotor in a bad spot it can sit there and fire one cylinder over and over again.... that's bad.
Can't wait to hear what ends up being the problem.
Mark
Well, it appears that I've found the problem!
So, you guys going to walk me through this? I have Streather and will begin reading up, but am looking for some encouragement as I begin this project.
Also, do I purchase just the rotors, caps and belt? Is there a roll-pin of some sort that needs to be replaced? I recall reading some bits here about locktight, roll-pins and/or screw replacements (not for me!) for the pin that holds things together.
Never mind the "any and all advice appreciated" . . . please, I'm going to need some help here!
I'd very much like to get the parts overnighted so that I can do the work on Monday before my business trip on Monday night!
Cheers,
Dave
P.S. Luck? Wha't's luck?! I suppose I am thankful that this didn't happen 200 miles from home!!
So, you guys going to walk me through this? I have Streather and will begin reading up, but am looking for some encouragement as I begin this project.
Also, do I purchase just the rotors, caps and belt? Is there a roll-pin of some sort that needs to be replaced? I recall reading some bits here about locktight, roll-pins and/or screw replacements (not for me!) for the pin that holds things together.
Never mind the "any and all advice appreciated" . . . please, I'm going to need some help here!
I'd very much like to get the parts overnighted so that I can do the work on Monday before my business trip on Monday night!
Cheers,
Dave
P.S. Luck? Wha't's luck?! I suppose I am thankful that this didn't happen 200 miles from home!!
Okay, I've ordered the rotors, caps and o'ring from Sunset Imports. They should be here sometime next week.
However, Sunset says that Porsche does not sell the belt! It must be purchased after market.
Anyone know where I can get one?
Thanks,
Dave
However, Sunset says that Porsche does not sell the belt! It must be purchased after market.
Anyone know where I can get one?
Thanks,
Dave
Here is what looks like a good DIY I saw some time ago: http://p-car.com/diy/dualbelt/
Haven't done this myself yet so that's all I have to add.
I don't know the best place to get the belt but Pelican Parts has it for $9.70
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3
oh and the Porsche PN is 930-602-134-00
Good luck!
Mark
Haven't done this myself yet so that's all I have to add.
I don't know the best place to get the belt but Pelican Parts has it for $9.70
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3
oh and the Porsche PN is 930-602-134-00
Good luck!
Mark
You'll also need the correct roll pin. Available from Porsche for about a dollar. I bought two just to have a spare. Heck, it's the cheapest thing you'll buy for your car.
The DIY is fairly well detailed. Just be careful when reassembling. Drilling out the old roll pin needs to be done carefully also, but it is covered in the DIY. Toughest part of the whole procedure is getting the two rotors lined up exactly right. If you're not confident of being able to do this yourself, there is someone (you'll have to check the various lists) who will do it for you, and rebuild the distributors while he's at it. I think the price was around $275 and the turnaround time is pretty quick.
The DIY is fairly well detailed. Just be careful when reassembling. Drilling out the old roll pin needs to be done carefully also, but it is covered in the DIY. Toughest part of the whole procedure is getting the two rotors lined up exactly right. If you're not confident of being able to do this yourself, there is someone (you'll have to check the various lists) who will do it for you, and rebuild the distributors while he's at it. I think the price was around $275 and the turnaround time is pretty quick.
92964cab, thanks for the belt reference. I have a belt on order now, too.
jimq, thanks for the tip on the diy. I should have looked here first; of course. Great set of info.
I'll be traveling all next week, but will do this job upon my return.
Cheers,
Dave
jimq, thanks for the tip on the diy. I should have looked here first; of course. Great set of info.
I'll be traveling all next week, but will do this job upon my return.
Cheers,
Dave
dutchcrunch, thanks for the offer! Don't know why I didn't see your post earlier. I have one on order so I should be all set. I jumped at the first one I found so I didn't get the best price, but still under $20 with shipping. Just a blip when compared to the $750 that Sunset wanted for a rebuilt!
Cheers,
Dave
Cheers,
Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
As all was fine initially, until partial engine failure, contaminated fuel, DME control unit, or as simple as, the oxygen sensor to the cat being unplugged or contaminated throwing all the correct running ratios out the window, or better yet, out the engine’s clogged up exhaust system, that’s what I would check first, the air to fuel, to heat, sensor on the catalytic converter, I hope that’s all there is,......Marc A.
PS. Later on, glad to see you found the problem, so near to home,....
PS. Later on, glad to see you found the problem, so near to home,....



