DIY on the shocks?
10-28-2005, 08:38 PM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
DIY on the shocks?
anyone got a good DIY for changing shocks/struts/springs on these beasts? I may also plan on SS brake lines to avoid WarmFuzzie's issue on the brake lines.
10-29-2005, 04:57 AM
#4
Drifting
That's the set of guidelines I followed, just be sure to print them off before you go down to the garage, I left mine on the garage wall as reminders, made life easy that way.
kevin
kevin
10-29-2005, 07:54 PM
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
Got wireless
Originally Posted by warmfuzzies
That's the set of guidelines I followed, just be sure to print them off before you go down to the garage, I left mine on the garage wall as reminders, made life easy that way.
kevin
kevin
so I'll nail the laptop to the wall
but thanks for the tip. I do that now; take the laptop into the garage and keep it on the DIY at hand. BTW- I ended up ordering SS lines from AJUSA just like others did; I'm preparing for the worst by planning to do the change anyway. Got the DIY for that one handy; if not, I'll do the search myself when I'm ready.
10-30-2005, 10:33 AM
#6
Drifting
Hawk,
Be sure to check the model year(s) that your new shocks are for. IIRC, you have a 1991 like me, and I have the old style shock mounts and rear calipers so be sure to check.
Be sure to check the model year(s) that your new shocks are for. IIRC, you have a 1991 like me, and I have the old style shock mounts and rear calipers so be sure to check.
10-30-2005, 12:09 PM
#7
Burgled
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Geoff as long as you are changing the SS lines may as well continue on to the 4 piston caliper upgrade on the rear if not already done 
I had a couple contacts where you might be able to pick up a set. In the process of cleaning and painting mine today for the install.
I had a couple contacts where you might be able to pick up a set. In the process of cleaning and painting mine today for the install.
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10-30-2005, 04:46 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Another stupid question 
just put of curiosity.
To save disconecting the brake lines could you dremil out the part of the old shock that holds the brake line?
this would seem to make the job a lot more simple.
just put of curiosity.To save disconecting the brake lines could you dremil out the part of the old shock that holds the brake line?
this would seem to make the job a lot more simple.
10-31-2005, 02:43 PM
#9
Drifting
Actually, cutting the brake line supports is what is recommended. You then put a clip on to keep the brake line in place. Trouble is that I can't remember where I saw it... RennTech, PP, 964UK?
10-31-2005, 03:04 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
10-31-2005, 04:50 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
So teh only downside I can see to this would be you have to cut up your new struts. which would you would have trouble taking back if there was a problem.
oh and where do you get clips like that?
oh and where do you get clips like that?
10-31-2005, 06:17 PM
#12
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Forget the clips, zip-ties if you're going to do it. They never rust nor break nor sproing-off in some random direction like your eye...
This weekend when I put on my M030 used spring and damper set purchased from fellow-lister "Turbohead" I just decided to leave the connectors in their normal location and follow up with a brake bleed since I was due anyway.
Total project start to finish including qire-brushing the "new-to-me" used suspension parts was 6hrs drive to drive. Car ended up much lower than I had anticipated, but the handling and ride quality with the M030 springs (even USA spec) were sooo much improved over stock it's not even funny. I got rid of 99% of the rear-end thump when going over expansion joints here in Chicago.
I added a fair amount of negative camber in the front, probably too much; but my turn in and in-turn steering response livened up tremendously.
I am pleased as punch considering the very low dollars spent.
Thanks much TURBOHEAD!!!
This weekend when I put on my M030 used spring and damper set purchased from fellow-lister "Turbohead" I just decided to leave the connectors in their normal location and follow up with a brake bleed since I was due anyway.
Total project start to finish including qire-brushing the "new-to-me" used suspension parts was 6hrs drive to drive. Car ended up much lower than I had anticipated, but the handling and ride quality with the M030 springs (even USA spec) were sooo much improved over stock it's not even funny. I got rid of 99% of the rear-end thump when going over expansion joints here in Chicago.
I added a fair amount of negative camber in the front, probably too much; but my turn in and in-turn steering response livened up tremendously.
I am pleased as punch considering the very low dollars spent.
Thanks much TURBOHEAD!!!
10-31-2005, 11:02 PM
#14
Racer
Pesty,
The clips come off of the old strut body. Just slide the clip up with a vice grip, dremel out the side of the bracket, and slide the brake line out. The clip should then fit over the new bracket on your new strut body.
Dave
89 C4
The clips come off of the old strut body. Just slide the clip up with a vice grip, dremel out the side of the bracket, and slide the brake line out. The clip should then fit over the new bracket on your new strut body.
Dave
89 C4
11-01-2005, 11:37 AM
#15
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Hawk911 - sure man. Or you're more than welcome to come down into the city and work in my well illuminated garage that also has heat when needed. I've also got the pressure bleeder, spare buts & bolts and stuff plus every tool needed to do the job (& then some).
I would budget 4hrs drive to drive with me helping. Budget probably the full 6 if you're working solo with advice... I can have all the tools laid out ready to go including my custom bent persuader-bar which I required to bust loose the lower damper anchor bolts in the rear. My 250#/ft torque air-wrench wouldn't cut the mustard...
Besides the food is better in the city I betcha!
I would budget 4hrs drive to drive with me helping. Budget probably the full 6 if you're working solo with advice... I can have all the tools laid out ready to go including my custom bent persuader-bar which I required to bust loose the lower damper anchor bolts in the rear. My 250#/ft torque air-wrench wouldn't cut the mustard...
Besides the food is better in the city I betcha!