RallyDogRacing

Well it was a pleasure instructing Geoff & Alex through the Posche suspension swap course 101. We didn't quite get to everthing Geoff wanted as his break lines were definitely not wanting to come loose. Unfortunately I didn't have flare-nut wrenches required to really get the stubborn lines busted loose so we left the originals on.

Springs and dampers went on slickly, which was my expectation. Interestingly enough I didn't realize how much working on ones knees there was (when I did it myself), but coaching Geoff through the process made it really obvious. If you're doing this sans-lift, then get knee pads & take two advil for your back BEFORE you start.

Geoff was kind enough to let me toodle around the block in his C2, all I can say is that it's a TOTALLY different car than the C4. Absolutely shocking how different it is. I do like the ability to step the tail out with only a twitch of the throttle. Overall I would need more seat-time in a C2 in order for me to decide if I like the feel better / for now I will stay with it's different.

One interesting thing to note for those DIY'ers out there. When you pull the two allen bolts that hold the hub to the upright in the fronts; on C2 cars the hub is spring forward and outward if you only have one side of the car in the air (sway bar...). On C4 cars, the axel in the front keeps things much closer to the allignment needed to install the new upright. So on Geoff's car I figured out a nice trick to the 2nd person. Take your 30mm socket and put it on the end of a breaker bar, have the socket positioned so that the opening is oriented allong the lenth of the bar (not 90deg per norm). Then take a screw driver and put it down the vane of the brake rotor and use it to keep the rotor in a finxed position relative to the calliper. Now heave up on the long end of the breaker bar and have person #1 slide the bolt in. Works like a dream.

Cheers all!

When am I going to Florida?

Marc Shaw

I can see by your avatar you have no aversion to snow so the question is, when are you coming to Canada?

Marc

Jeremy Pinsly

Rally dog.........maybe jan--feb?

JimQ--how will that work for you? I think I'll have to bring my car down to you since you appear to have more equipment than me..........

jimq

Well the lift is coming Dec. 2 so should be easier on the knees. I definatly would want to do mine here after spending the money on the lift. Early March probably would be better for me as I havent even looked into sourcing parts yet. To much money flying out the door over the holidays to even think about it. I hate those freezing cold 60 degree Feb. winter days

RallyDogRacing

Here's my modus so far. If someone wants me to look over the shoulder and coach; and they are farther than a couple hours away - well I can donate the time; but travel costs go on the person being coached. Of course this all assumes that the person being coached has the right tools to do the job. If not, plan a driving trip to Chicago.

Mid Jan might be workable. Late Jan & to Late Feb is skiing time for me so I do lots of trips. You FL guys. Get the lift installed, order your parts and lets talk in the new year.

hawk911

okay; here's before and after.

hawk911

the project really wasn't that bad; the big part is getting the front strut on; bring a buddy along. the rears are pretty simple once you have the airbox, MAF, and blower motor off. the front's require some finese because of the brake lines, the close proximity to the front fender paint, and the torque on the hub when trying to get the holes lines back up.

KG- are you putting the same setup on?

hawk911

oh yeah Rob; it's not the day of that you feel the pain of getting old; it's the day after....

Marc Shaw

RDR - any problems installing the rear TRG bar? What type did you use, Hawk?

I just ordered a 22mm TRG bar (yeah, my winter project list is getting really long ) but I vaguely remember someone here having fitting issues....

Marc

kgorman

Yeah, I am putting the same setup on, hopefully next weekend. I will be referring to this thread I am sure. Any p-car specific tools that I will need? I already have the torque wrenches, sockets, breaker, jackstands, jacks, and all that stuff.

I will also be putting on RS sways F/R, and strut bar.

I plan on using this as a guide:
porsche964.co.uk

jimq

There was a good answer to a question today on the PCA site saying what steps to skip on the Pcar site how to do when doing a 964. I can PM you a copy if you cant get it off the site. Its in the tech section.

Jasko

Marc,

I put the rear 22mm 3-way TRG bar on mine several weeks ago. No problems on fit on a 89 C4. I have it set on the lightest setting now, and the car is much more balanced now, with very little understeer. The turn in improvement on the track is incredible. I have not yet tried it at the stiffest setting.

Dave
89 C4

hawk911

Marc; I did not go with the sway bar yet. Rob suggested I see how the car feels now, before adding the heavier bar.

Marc Shaw

Thanks Hawk - maybe I should do the same - seems like good advice.

Marc
p.s. You have to change your sig now.

RallyDogRacing

If you're doing the work yourself (which is a good thing), make one change rather than a ton of them at once. It will allow you better understand what the impact of your specific changes are. Personally I'll be amazed if Hawk911 wants a thicker rear bar seing how his car is a flat cornered now - and he doesn't track.

Me I wanted to avoid going stiffer on the springs or dampers, and was ONLY after reducing body roll at the track. The TRG's helped with that a lot. I had hoped that the understeer tendancy would be reduced as well with the rear bar set full stiff (I haven't even mounted the front bar yet); but it wasn't until I added lots of negative camber in the front that I got the livelier front end feel I was hankering for.