Oil Refill After Partial Drain
#1
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I suffered an oil leak from one of the four collapsible return tubes that I recently installed. During installation, I inadvertently pinched and tore one of the tube seals on the sharp edges of the head.
Of course this was not known until the exchangers, cat, and secondary had all been reinstalled, the oil was properly filled, and then topped off once it reached operating temperature.
After the warmup drive, the oil pressure went low, and my garage floor was bathed in Mobil 1.
The replacement of the return tube seal went fine, and 100% of the old seal was retrieved.
The car is now ready for an oil fill and, not trying to be cheap, wondered if there was a process to replenish the oil that was lost from the sump. Of course, I could probably have drained and refilled by the time I had finished typing this note, but I was just curious if this had been done before (without fear of an over or under initial fill).
I think I already know what I am going to do.
Thanks in advance, and have fun with your projects
Mike
'93 C2
'72T
Of course this was not known until the exchangers, cat, and secondary had all been reinstalled, the oil was properly filled, and then topped off once it reached operating temperature.
After the warmup drive, the oil pressure went low, and my garage floor was bathed in Mobil 1.
The replacement of the return tube seal went fine, and 100% of the old seal was retrieved.
The car is now ready for an oil fill and, not trying to be cheap, wondered if there was a process to replenish the oil that was lost from the sump. Of course, I could probably have drained and refilled by the time I had finished typing this note, but I was just curious if this had been done before (without fear of an over or under initial fill).
I think I already know what I am going to do.
Thanks in advance, and have fun with your projects
Mike
'93 C2
'72T
#3
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Mike - Sorry I don't have an answer for you but i do have a question... I think I need to replace one of me oil return tubes. I already have the collapsible tube kit but just need to work up the nerve to install it. The question: Is the process for our cars the same as the one on the DIY section of Pelican (from an earlier carrera)? Are there any other DIY write-ups that you know of?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
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Hi james,
The pelican site covers the task pretty well. Here's a link for those who may also be interested.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eturn_tube.htm
After my initial experience, I wrote to Pelican to submit an addendum for consideration. I received a positive response back from Pelican, but I don't think that the DIY has been updated. Here is the text of my email to Pelican.
>>
Addition to Tech Article: 911 Oil Return Tube
I'm not sure if this is the right vehicle to submit, for consideration, an addition to a Technical Article, but here are my experiences.
I recently replaced all four of my return tubes in my '93 C2 with the expanding type with the help of your Tech Article. All excellent advice, including the additional submittals.
My work was in concert with a valve adjustment, and I found that the best approach requires the removal of the heat exchangers and the hard (36/32mm nuts) oil line. I found that with the return tubes preassembled to a length of 7.75 inches, that they would just fit between the head and case, ready for expansion. The hose clamps worked great, and I just lubed the seals with oil.
The one tool that made the job easiest, was the use of one of those ratcheting clamps (6 inch size), often used for woodworking projects. With one clamp end reversed, the clamp becomes a very strong spreader, which easily leverages against the hose clamps to expand the tubes.
I was fortunate not to have any of the stud problems with the removal of my exchangers, and while others have had success without this step, I believe it may be necessary to utilize the ratcheting clamp approach.
Thank you.
User/Staff Follow-ups
scott
09/06/2005 08:13
Hi Michael,
Thank you for sending this info! I will append the Technical Article with your suggestions.
Sincerely,
Scott Shores
>>
Just be careful, as the recommended ratcheting clamp idea puts a lot of force against the hose clamps. I found this approach necessary to gain the required leverage, but be sure the seals are going into the holes without catching the sharp edges of the heads. No need to ask me how I know.
This is probably intuitive, but remember to assemble the tubes in this order- circlip, inner (small o-ring) seals, and then lube the small seals and join the tubes.
Have fun with your projects.
Mike
'93 C2
'72T
The pelican site covers the task pretty well. Here's a link for those who may also be interested.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eturn_tube.htm
After my initial experience, I wrote to Pelican to submit an addendum for consideration. I received a positive response back from Pelican, but I don't think that the DIY has been updated. Here is the text of my email to Pelican.
>>
Addition to Tech Article: 911 Oil Return Tube
I'm not sure if this is the right vehicle to submit, for consideration, an addition to a Technical Article, but here are my experiences.
I recently replaced all four of my return tubes in my '93 C2 with the expanding type with the help of your Tech Article. All excellent advice, including the additional submittals.
My work was in concert with a valve adjustment, and I found that the best approach requires the removal of the heat exchangers and the hard (36/32mm nuts) oil line. I found that with the return tubes preassembled to a length of 7.75 inches, that they would just fit between the head and case, ready for expansion. The hose clamps worked great, and I just lubed the seals with oil.
The one tool that made the job easiest, was the use of one of those ratcheting clamps (6 inch size), often used for woodworking projects. With one clamp end reversed, the clamp becomes a very strong spreader, which easily leverages against the hose clamps to expand the tubes.
I was fortunate not to have any of the stud problems with the removal of my exchangers, and while others have had success without this step, I believe it may be necessary to utilize the ratcheting clamp approach.
Thank you.
User/Staff Follow-ups
scott
09/06/2005 08:13
Hi Michael,
Thank you for sending this info! I will append the Technical Article with your suggestions.
Sincerely,
Scott Shores
>>
Just be careful, as the recommended ratcheting clamp idea puts a lot of force against the hose clamps. I found this approach necessary to gain the required leverage, but be sure the seals are going into the holes without catching the sharp edges of the heads. No need to ask me how I know.
This is probably intuitive, but remember to assemble the tubes in this order- circlip, inner (small o-ring) seals, and then lube the small seals and join the tubes.
Have fun with your projects.
Mike
'93 C2
'72T
#5
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Update:
>> The car is now ready for an oil fill and, not trying to be cheap, wondered if there was a process to replenish the oil that was lost from the sump.
Refresher... The car was fully topped up, hot, and lost oil from a large return tube leak. When the engine had cooled, I opened the hard oil line fitting to access the tube, removed the tube and some more oil leaked out.
Today, I added 5 quarts of Mobile 1 and warmed the car to operating temperature. The final top off took one more quart.
I guess I was lucky... maybe I'll play the lottery! But no more Russian roulette.
Have fun with your projects.
Mike
'93 C2
'72T
>> The car is now ready for an oil fill and, not trying to be cheap, wondered if there was a process to replenish the oil that was lost from the sump.
Refresher... The car was fully topped up, hot, and lost oil from a large return tube leak. When the engine had cooled, I opened the hard oil line fitting to access the tube, removed the tube and some more oil leaked out.
Today, I added 5 quarts of Mobile 1 and warmed the car to operating temperature. The final top off took one more quart.
I guess I was lucky... maybe I'll play the lottery! But no more Russian roulette.
Have fun with your projects.
Mike
'93 C2
'72T