H964

again, here is my problem. my car has been lacking that kick at wot, so i followed adrian's test and thats what i got
at wot , between the outer pins in the throttle body connector, i keep reading 19ohms, either the wot is engaged or not. but between the middle pin and the right one, i get less than 10ohm.
now at the switch it self, i did the following test, with the idle switch engaged and reading between it reads continuity and once i disengage it it reads open (good)
now between the outer pins with the wot engaged it reads continuity (bad)
NOW, that confirmed that my wot switch is bad.
ordered a new one (had to come all the way from germany), got it today, and pulled out my multimeter to test it. guess what i get the same results.
now when i tested between the

then i did another test , but this time i tested the between the middle pin and the right one, and at wot i read OPEN. then went to the car to perform the same test and it reads open on my old switch also.

now that leads me to believe either my car is just F*****up , or the way adrians book recommend to test the wot is not good.
iam going nuts here trying to fix this problem, and iam hoping someone here will give me some good advice other than take it to a shop cause i did and they didnt know what a wot was

i emailed a fellow rennlister that had a similar problem and his was the AFM.
iam not sure how to test that, and adrians book method wasnt very clear to me.
can anyone please with a healthy car, adrian's test and post it, that will be awsome.

i have to go, tonight is my birthday and all i can think about is the stupid car
later

Dunasso

Sorry to hear about the disappointment. Try this before buying something else. Disconnect the AFM and clean the connector. You may need to remove the AFM to get to the pins and clean those aswell. Insure that there are no loose or bent pins. If this does nothing for your problem you may be looking at replacing the connector if the issue becomes intermitent at that point, or worse, repacing the AFM.

Duncan

H964

i already cleaned the AFM. but how do you know its the AFM

H964

now how about that 19ohm i keep reading at the throttle body connector?? what do you guys read between the outer pins???

Dunasso

The symtoms sound typical of a bad MAF or connector. When mine went I replaced it with a Hot Wire or Hot Film MAF. I've had no problems sence.
It use to fall flat on its face like some one pulled the plug. I had seen this on so many other types of vehicles that incoorperate this type MASS AIR. Usually no top end at full throttle, stumbling badly, shutting down at stop, and just doesn't want to go.

Duncan

Dunasso

The ECU gets all of its fuel delivery info from this one unit. The only other components that contribute with any real sugnificants are the throttle switches. You car has no TPS to gage engine load it relies on that AFM for an accurate reading of engine load. If it is not sending the right signal then the ECU has no idea what you are doing or how heavy your foot is at that moment. It knows nothing until the WOT is engaged. If the WOT and the AFM are not on the same page the ECU has no other reference to collect the needed info for confermation.
Its simple crude but very effective, as long as its working properly.

Duncan

H964

now wait a second, my car iddle super smooth, never shuts down, never hesitate, early rpms are as strong as they can be the only problem is that after 4k rpms, i dont feel that kick , the rpms still go up to redline with no hesitation,, but not as fast as they are supposed to., but it feels weak.

Dunasso

Oh, sorry though it wasn't performing aafter 4000, stumbling and not wanting to go.
If you are capable of red line then the AFM may not be your concern.

Have you checked fuel pressure? Something else you may want to look at is the resonance flap. Sometimes it will get fairly oily and dirty. If this is not functioning it can show a reduction in performance. It is usually what gives that added umph around 4000 when it changes the air flow charectoristics of the in take volume.

Only draw back is the removal of the intake to clean it.

Duncan

greenjt

WTF is a WOT & AFM?

Marc Shaw

WOT = wide open throttle
AFM = air flow meter
WTF =

Marc

JasonAndreas

I think the idle speed contact and full load contact connector (throttle valve switch) diagram is labeled incorrectly in the workshop manuals. It should be 1-2-3 but instead its drawn 3-1-2. You need to measure continuity between the outer pins and the center pin and not between the two outer pins. When either switch bounces your multimeter can read several hundred ohms and then will settle at .1 - 10 Ohms. Both my switches settle at .1 Ohms and I checked them both with a Bosch hammer so I know everything is working okay on my end. Connecting the two outer pins showed nothing.

Kahdmus

Hmmm...I had the sudden inability to get anything after 4000rpm twice last week aftermy car got wet. can the sensoreasily get wet? I know Ive had this apart before but can't remember for the life of me what it looked like...

JasonAndreas

The switches are all potted so its unlikely (but not impossible) water would effect them. What type of O2 sensor are you running?

Dunasso

I don't really know exactly what the problem is.

You have to cover the basics first, jumping all around from one major component to another is going to drive you crazy.

Have you pulled a sparkplug yet, checked the caps and rotors, checked fuel pressure, how do the wires look?

Had a customer that took their car to 5 different shops to figure out why it wouldn't go over 40mph. Nobody could figure it out. The catalitic converter had been changed, fuel pump and other stuff that ended up costing the guy 700 bucks. Then it ended up on my floor and it turned out that the spark plug electrodes were worn down to the porciline. It was a wonder that the thing ran at all. Took me all of 5 mins to figure that one out, and he was estatic! It just goes to show you how the simple things can be so easily overlooked when something is working so poorly.

Duncan

robbed666

Just a quick note even if the WOT switch is totally missing the The ECU uses the AFM input to simulate the WOT switch setting. Dont get hung up on resistance values, the ECU is interested in login state change, ie voltage level change. An ECU input with a 1K ohm input impedence is not going to worry about 10 or 19 ohms. As the circuit is configured the WOT switches 0V (ground) to the ECU pin. With as I said 1K pullup in the ECU with your 19 Ohm,s the pin will switch to approx 0.25 volt, as the threshold between on and off (login 1 or 0 ) will somewhere around 1/3 - 2/3 supply. 0.25V will still register as logic 0 (yes I know i'm generalizing here, just to get the point accross).
As I said In my previous posts, check at the ECU connector (as per the Manual!) you can test most of the inputs with your meter. I didn't want say anything before (as I hoped it would cure your problem), but I knew that it was unlikely to be the WOT. I've attached an image see the note at the bottom. Let me know and I can email you a test sheet for the ECU inputs. I'm not saying what you'll find, this might not be an ECU/ sensor fault. but you will find obvious basic sensor faults.
HTH