Creaking clutch - advice needed
02-22-2002, 05:54 AM
#16
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Greg,
I'd be interested in hearing what they say too, seeing as I still have a similar problem to yours. My guess: it will only go away with a new clutch and ALL the parts that go with it like release bearings, forks, rubber hose etc. (maybe not master & slave cylinders though).
Furthermore, what you are experiencing just reinforces my impression that dealers like Camtune, Shirleys et al are just a rip off. I mean, judging by the responses they seem to have been giving you, you might as well have bought the car privately for £4k less and just have all the parts replaced by a good independent (JZs). Sorry, don't want to rub salt in your wounds, but this kind of service from one of the supposedly best independent dealers in the UK just annoys me no end.
I'd be interested in hearing what they say too, seeing as I still have a similar problem to yours. My guess: it will only go away with a new clutch and ALL the parts that go with it like release bearings, forks, rubber hose etc. (maybe not master & slave cylinders though).
Furthermore, what you are experiencing just reinforces my impression that dealers like Camtune, Shirleys et al are just a rip off. I mean, judging by the responses they seem to have been giving you, you might as well have bought the car privately for £4k less and just have all the parts replaced by a good independent (JZs). Sorry, don't want to rub salt in your wounds, but this kind of service from one of the supposedly best independent dealers in the UK just annoys me no end.
02-22-2002, 06:21 AM
#17
Racer
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Riccardo -
Yes, I agree with you. I don't want to agree because I've known them for several years, but the way they've behaved throughout the entire sales process has really disappointed me.
They sell a car at a high price, with a 3-month warranty, (and a verbal assurance that the clutch doesn't need replacing) and then refuse to rectify any faults identified by two independent Porsche specialists, including the clutch, all of which have been notified to them during the 3-month period!!
I won't go into every detail again just yet, but there's a long list of things they've done that have disappointed me.
One issue I'm wrestling with right now is - even if I can get them to do some of the necessary work under their "warranty", I've got to ask myself - if they appear not to care or have sufficient resources to do even the most basic things correctly - do I actually want them doing any more work on the car at all??
Even if it does cost me more money, perhaps it would be better to take the car somewhere else rather than risk them taking further shortcuts..
Having said all of that, I did negotiate £1,500 off the asking price before I bought it. Had I done a PPI and then waved the results under their noses, they would (presumably) have agreed to reduce the price to cover the most important items on the PPI list. I doubt whether that would add up to more than £1,500 (even including a new clutch). So part of me says that the end result would have been the same, whether I had a PPI done or not. In either case a discount of around £1,500 would probably have been the end result.
Yes, I agree with you. I don't want to agree because I've known them for several years, but the way they've behaved throughout the entire sales process has really disappointed me.
They sell a car at a high price, with a 3-month warranty, (and a verbal assurance that the clutch doesn't need replacing) and then refuse to rectify any faults identified by two independent Porsche specialists, including the clutch, all of which have been notified to them during the 3-month period!!
I won't go into every detail again just yet, but there's a long list of things they've done that have disappointed me.
One issue I'm wrestling with right now is - even if I can get them to do some of the necessary work under their "warranty", I've got to ask myself - if they appear not to care or have sufficient resources to do even the most basic things correctly - do I actually want them doing any more work on the car at all??
Even if it does cost me more money, perhaps it would be better to take the car somewhere else rather than risk them taking further shortcuts..
Having said all of that, I did negotiate £1,500 off the asking price before I bought it. Had I done a PPI and then waved the results under their noses, they would (presumably) have agreed to reduce the price to cover the most important items on the PPI list. I doubt whether that would add up to more than £1,500 (even including a new clutch). So part of me says that the end result would have been the same, whether I had a PPI done or not. In either case a discount of around £1,500 would probably have been the end result.
02-22-2002, 06:59 AM
#18
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Greg,
Somwhere in the thread you mention that when the pedal is past the "bite point", it feels "sproingy". I'm not sure what that means, but I will return my car to the dealer as well for them to have a look at the clutch.
Reason is that it feels as if the clutch is "dribbling" -is that the right word?- going from third to second gear with little or no throttle, and sometimes also going from 4th to 3rd. It does not happen consistently. I had the dealer look at it before, and they said it was all perfectly ok - they did not notice the behavior...
And now, since yesterday, I noticed a strange noise coming from the pedal when you fully press the pedal to the floor. It's not really creaking, and it comes from the pedal. It also does not return fully at times.
Finally, at times it's hard to get the thing into 1st gear. Sometimes it's smooth and easy and it falls in just like that, but other times, you have to apply the clutch a couple of times -as I don't want to use force on it.
I have a one year warranty on the car (still 6 months to go) and consequently paid quite a bit for the car. I want to make sure -basically the same thing as you- that I'm not facing a clutch job once the warranty is over...
Somwhere in the thread you mention that when the pedal is past the "bite point", it feels "sproingy". I'm not sure what that means, but I will return my car to the dealer as well for them to have a look at the clutch.
Reason is that it feels as if the clutch is "dribbling" -is that the right word?- going from third to second gear with little or no throttle, and sometimes also going from 4th to 3rd. It does not happen consistently. I had the dealer look at it before, and they said it was all perfectly ok - they did not notice the behavior...
And now, since yesterday, I noticed a strange noise coming from the pedal when you fully press the pedal to the floor. It's not really creaking, and it comes from the pedal. It also does not return fully at times.
Finally, at times it's hard to get the thing into 1st gear. Sometimes it's smooth and easy and it falls in just like that, but other times, you have to apply the clutch a couple of times -as I don't want to use force on it.
I have a one year warranty on the car (still 6 months to go) and consequently paid quite a bit for the car. I want to make sure -basically the same thing as you- that I'm not facing a clutch job once the warranty is over...
02-26-2002, 06:23 PM
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OK, this is probably a really dumb question, but:
Why can't I see any information in the user's handbook regarding hydraulic fluid for the clutch? It's got capacities for everything else (including transmission and differential oil), power steering and brake hydraulic fluid, but nothing to do with the clutch hydraulic fluid....?
Just curious because of the references above to bleeding, master and slave cylinders...
Why can't I see any information in the user's handbook regarding hydraulic fluid for the clutch? It's got capacities for everything else (including transmission and differential oil), power steering and brake hydraulic fluid, but nothing to do with the clutch hydraulic fluid....?
Just curious because of the references above to bleeding, master and slave cylinders...
