Gimmie a brake
#16
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There are a few choices on brake cooling options. First, there is only one kit currently made which attempts to duct air directly to the rotor. I've talked to one person and corresponded with another saying the kit is low quality, tough to install to be effective, and thus probably not the best solution. There are several kits that replace the fog lamps with inlets, some with and some without extra lights imbedded in them. They have pipes that connect into the wheel well (which you have to have for it to work), shooting air towards the rotor. Not the best approach (as compared to dumping air directly into the eye of the rotor), but better than nothing. Adding additional plastic air-routers (as posted on the San Diego region PCA site) on a lowered 964 is a neat idea too, which I may try for next year - can't have too much cooling air on the rotors.
I've posted the Porsche Tequipment kit price before, I want to say around $450? Mike Shaw makes a nice kit also, don't know what he charges. FVD and others have similar kits, too, again some with and some without lamps.
You might try ordering from Reeves Porsche in Tampa, to see if they will ship to Canada. They discount around 25%, too. I've found Weissach's prices, in US $, to be higher than others.
I've posted the Porsche Tequipment kit price before, I want to say around $450? Mike Shaw makes a nice kit also, don't know what he charges. FVD and others have similar kits, too, again some with and some without lamps.
You might try ordering from Reeves Porsche in Tampa, to see if they will ship to Canada. They discount around 25%, too. I've found Weissach's prices, in US $, to be higher than others.
#17
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Greetings, in my short track experience. The cheapest/quickest bang for your Bucks/Euro's..for stopping the buggers. Go w/ Bill G's suggestion... Put the C4 rear calipers on your new 16" rotors w/ good pads/ fluid. You'll be out about $250 for good used pair
of C4 calipers. They stop us just great, lap after lap. ( My other half & I usually run back to back sessions!)I've felt a BIG difference from the stock set. And change pads like Joey says.
Bill G thanks again for the good advise in getting our C2 sorted!
Buck
'91 G. Red C2
'02 O. Red C2 996
of C4 calipers. They stop us just great, lap after lap. ( My other half & I usually run back to back sessions!)I've felt a BIG difference from the stock set. And change pads like Joey says.
Bill G thanks again for the good advise in getting our C2 sorted!
Buck
'91 G. Red C2
'02 O. Red C2 996
#18
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[quote]Originally posted by SteveW@stig:
<strong>
Where do you get your slotted rotors/disks from? I have only ever seen drilled???</strong><hr></blockquote>
Steve - EBC do some slotted brake 'rotors'
- check out <a href="http://www.ebcbrakes.com/" target="_blank">EBC</a> for details. The UK distributor (or one of them anyway) is <a href="http://www.sejoc.co.uk/EBC/ebcintro.htm" target="_blank">Sejoc</a>. EBC make slotted discs as well as the "Green/Yellow/Red Stuff pads". I am looking at these for future replacement whenever that may be.
<strong>
Where do you get your slotted rotors/disks from? I have only ever seen drilled???</strong><hr></blockquote>
Steve - EBC do some slotted brake 'rotors'
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#19
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Spoke to the EBC distributor:
slotted discs 315mm x 28mm £69 + VAT
The guy said they only to the front 'rotors'. Strikes me that 315mm rotors won't fit without caliper mods.
I don't think he was too clued up!
slotted discs 315mm x 28mm £69 + VAT
The guy said they only to the front 'rotors'. Strikes me that 315mm rotors won't fit without caliper mods.
I don't think he was too clued up!
#20
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I see several references in this thread to drilled/slotted rotors. Be careful with your sources and check your PCA region's tech inspection particulars. Last year I bought a set of cross-drilled rotors marketed as "Brembo" and got a rude surprise on 2 fronts: First, it turns out some companies - including Brembo - wholesale solid rotor castings to folks who then have them drilled at Joe's Machine Shop and re-sell them. These were still being marketed as a Brembo product, which made the good Brembo people very tense when I pointed it out. Second, our PCA region (NER - Boston) bans aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors at our track events. Right there on the tech form. Given the misleading advertising and some persistence, I was able to foist the now-useless rotors back on the seller. For the same money, I bought some Zimmermans with holes cast-in during production which have been great. Look good, too.
If I only save one person the headache this caused me....
Mike
'91 C4
If I only save one person the headache this caused me....
Mike
'91 C4
#21
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I also belong to NER and I use Zimmerman "drilled" rotors soourced from that bargain parts place in Florida that advertises in Excellence. I'm very happy with them...
I try over-analyze everything and found that the rotors that Bill uses have the best reputation, but I decided to go with the cheaper solution and so far its worked out well. I would have (and still would) buy the frozen rotors if I wasn't so cheap.
I try over-analyze everything and found that the rotors that Bill uses have the best reputation, but I decided to go with the cheaper solution and so far its worked out well. I would have (and still would) buy the frozen rotors if I wasn't so cheap.
#22
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I disagree that larger brake pad/rotor combinations cannot stop the car in less distance than stock if they are properly designed. Merely because a car's stock brakes are capable of locking the brakes does not mean that they cannot be improved upon.
Minimizing stopping distance for one stop is accomplished by maintaining braking torque as close to (but less than) that required to lock up the wheel. During this process the temperatures at the pad rotor interface change tremendously and the rotor expands.
Reducing the amount of temperature change and the accompanying change in pad coefficient of friction will allow a driver to perform closer to the critical lockup torque without stepping over it for the entire duration of the braking.
This is also why pad composition plays such an important roll in stopping distance. Even the worst pad can lockup your tires but a good one can almost lock up your tires from 100mph to 30mph
The effects of different pad and rotor sizes are certainly not dramatic ones and clearly there are diminishing returns (perhaps 964 brakes are already large enough to obtain most of them). Additionally poorly matched front and rear rotor sizes are a potential pitfall as we want both sides to have temperatures rising at the same rate. (although the less the total temperature rise the less critical the mismatch is)
Cheers,
Eric Fesler
Minimizing stopping distance for one stop is accomplished by maintaining braking torque as close to (but less than) that required to lock up the wheel. During this process the temperatures at the pad rotor interface change tremendously and the rotor expands.
Reducing the amount of temperature change and the accompanying change in pad coefficient of friction will allow a driver to perform closer to the critical lockup torque without stepping over it for the entire duration of the braking.
This is also why pad composition plays such an important roll in stopping distance. Even the worst pad can lockup your tires but a good one can almost lock up your tires from 100mph to 30mph
The effects of different pad and rotor sizes are certainly not dramatic ones and clearly there are diminishing returns (perhaps 964 brakes are already large enough to obtain most of them). Additionally poorly matched front and rear rotor sizes are a potential pitfall as we want both sides to have temperatures rising at the same rate. (although the less the total temperature rise the less critical the mismatch is)
Cheers,
Eric Fesler
#23
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Oh, I've been waiting for this! A while back I read a test report on the affects of bigger brakes and sturdier pads. I posted a new topic which includes these results (fresh meat, so to speak.)
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