Front Brake Pads... The are done.
08-24-2005, 01:41 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Front Brake Pads... The are done.
OK, so I've the car on stands and the wheels off. I've pulled the connection to the wear sensor and I notice the brake line is hard from the strut to the caliper. 
My choices are to either undo the brake line and bleed the lines or cut the stut brake line holder to slide it out the side.
Would you cut the side, top or bottom?
My choices are to either undo the brake line and bleed the lines or cut the stut brake line holder to slide it out the side.
Would you cut the side, top or bottom?
Last edited by C4Russ; 08-25-2005 at 01:14 AM.
08-24-2005, 01:51 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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Really?
Just slip them out toward the center of the rotor?
Never thought about doing it like that. I don't have any issues with the pistions that I'm aware of so I suppose there is nothing to see.
Never thought about doing it like that. I don't have any issues with the pistions that I'm aware of so I suppose there is nothing to see.
08-24-2005, 02:22 PM
#4
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Just gently pry the calipers apart (just don't damage the pistons) and pull the pads straight up and out - they might have the little mushroom anti-squeal hats on so they must be pried off first or they can be ver hard to get off.
Marc
Marc
08-24-2005, 02:31 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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OK, I get it now.
Awesome, this will be much simpler. I'm planning on changing out the brake fluid soon, I'd just prefer not to have to spend useless dollars on overnight shipping on a Motive. I'd wait to do them all together but I'm concerned about waiting a tad too long. I suppose I could park the car but that would be awful.
I don't like the idea of them wearing mushroom shaped hats though, seems a bit effeminate, not that there is anything wrong with that.
I don't like the idea of them wearing mushroom shaped hats though, seems a bit effeminate, not that there is anything wrong with that.
08-24-2005, 04:14 PM
#7
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Heres a link to brakepad replacement on a 993 (similar setup to a 964)
Scroll down the page past the rotor and pad replacement to the pads only bit....gotta do mine soon ,lmk how you get on
http://p-car.com/diy/brakepads/
Scroll down the page past the rotor and pad replacement to the pads only bit....gotta do mine soon ,lmk how you get on
http://p-car.com/diy/brakepads/
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08-24-2005, 04:53 PM
#8
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Once the wheels are off, it only takes a minute or two per wheel to swap brake pads! I do it all the time at the track with nothing more than a pair of plier!
08-24-2005, 05:16 PM
#9
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If your pads haven't been changed recently they will probably stick and be next-to-impossible to remove because of all the corrosion and brake dust built up behind the spring plates. In which case it will be a lot easier to pull the caliper so that you can push the pad out from below. On your front shock at the junction of the hard and soft lines there is a retaining clip (red arrow) that you can remove with a flat-head screwdriver. Once popped out you can rotate your caliper to your hearts content and you won't have to worry about bending the hard line.
Permatex sells "Brake Disc Quiet" blue adhesive for $3USD that you apply to the back of the pad, I've had much better with that than I did new mushrooms for getting rid of brake squeal.
Permatex sells "Brake Disc Quiet" blue adhesive for $3USD that you apply to the back of the pad, I've had much better with that than I did new mushrooms for getting rid of brake squeal.
08-24-2005, 08:01 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Thanks all for the good advice and for sharing your knowledge. I'm going to buy a bottle of the Permatex on the way home. I'll try to slide the pad out without taking the caliper off. If I have to, I have to. I feel better knowing I can wiggle it around while still attached.
I just bought a Motive on ebay for $44 dollars shipped. Once it arrives I'll bleed the brakes/clutch/PDAS with new fluid.
I was following the high milage C4 thread, mine has 99,000. I don't have any records to indicate a recent fluid change so I'm going to do so. Brake fluid is cheap and it won't hurt to know what I've got going.
I just bought a Motive on ebay for $44 dollars shipped. Once it arrives I'll bleed the brakes/clutch/PDAS with new fluid.
I was following the high milage C4 thread, mine has 99,000. I don't have any records to indicate a recent fluid change so I'm going to do so. Brake fluid is cheap and it won't hurt to know what I've got going.
08-24-2005, 08:05 PM
#11
since the topic is at hand- does anyone run silicone brake fluid? is it worth the hassle of a complete bleed to introduce the other stuff; I've hard they can't mix between the type types.
08-25-2005, 01:21 AM
#12
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Got the new pads in. Left side = 1.5 hours, rights side about 30 minutes. I was cooking dinner for my son and doing brakes. Not a good combo for smooth, fast work. Anyway, guy's got to eat.
I had to take the caliper off but had plenty of slack to work without removing the brake line. The existing pads had two top hat shaped retainers that slid into the pistons. They came off easily and I slid the Mintex pads in without any struggle once the pistons had been reset. On the left side I ended up disassembling the sensor wire which I did not do on the right. I simply popped the sensors out once the caliper was loose. I pulled the sensor out, lifted off the worn pads and put it all back together.
The right side would have been faster had I bothered to torgue the retaining bolts on the caliper once I slide everything together the first time. Remember: 1 step at a time.
Pretty easy but also just tempts me with more work. The calipers themselves need a thourough cleaning and painting. I didn't clean too much today as I'm going to pull the calipers when I do a brake bleed. I'll paint the calipers at that time. I'm also tempted by SS lines.
Damn these cars just ask you to find things to buy...
I had to take the caliper off but had plenty of slack to work without removing the brake line. The existing pads had two top hat shaped retainers that slid into the pistons. They came off easily and I slid the Mintex pads in without any struggle once the pistons had been reset. On the left side I ended up disassembling the sensor wire which I did not do on the right. I simply popped the sensors out once the caliper was loose. I pulled the sensor out, lifted off the worn pads and put it all back together.
The right side would have been faster had I bothered to torgue the retaining bolts on the caliper once I slide everything together the first time. Remember: 1 step at a time.
Pretty easy but also just tempts me with more work. The calipers themselves need a thourough cleaning and painting. I didn't clean too much today as I'm going to pull the calipers when I do a brake bleed. I'll paint the calipers at that time. I'm also tempted by SS lines.
Damn these cars just ask you to find things to buy...
08-25-2005, 03:03 PM
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C4Russ:
If you decide to pull the calipers to clean, paint, etc, expect that the hard lines going into the calipers will twist and break when you try to loosen the fittings. Mine hadn't been off in a while and they were a bugger.
You can replace the rear hard lines by going to any auto parts store, buying some straight brake line and bending it yourself. The front lines are a bit more of a challange because they have some difficult curves and bends. I managed to do it, but wasn't entirely happy with their look and in the end, ordered stock ones. I found out no one has them in stock and and they had to be ordered. This added a week or so to the process - you might want to think about this before hand and get them on order if you buy stock lines.
If you decide to pull the calipers to clean, paint, etc, expect that the hard lines going into the calipers will twist and break when you try to loosen the fittings. Mine hadn't been off in a while and they were a bugger.
You can replace the rear hard lines by going to any auto parts store, buying some straight brake line and bending it yourself. The front lines are a bit more of a challange because they have some difficult curves and bends. I managed to do it, but wasn't entirely happy with their look and in the end, ordered stock ones. I found out no one has them in stock and and they had to be ordered. This added a week or so to the process - you might want to think about this before hand and get them on order if you buy stock lines.