scupper

Did a quick search on the archives - lot of discussion on Rotor and Pad selection but not on the R&R itself.

Question: are changing brake rotors as easy on the 964 as they are on the SC and Carrera? Essentially,

1. Remove Wheel
2. Remove pads
3. Unbolt, remove and carefully hang caliper with clothes hanger - watch for damage to flexible and hard brake lines
4. Remove two screws from rotor
5. Remove rotor, gently using a rubber mallet, if needed.
6 Reverse the process with the new rotors and pads.

Any quirks or difficulties I should be aware of particular to the 964 brake system?

Thanks in advance!

Chuck
93 C2

Bill Gregory

Chuck,

Add step 2.5 pull clip on the strut housing where caliper hard line joins rubber line. This will allow the wiggle room when you take the caliper off the rotor. Otherwise, you're steps are spot on. Retorque caliper bolts to 63 ft lbs, and you're all set!

Bob Krantz

I would add 2 things to Chuck's reply:
1: The 964 calipers are designed to have anti-sqeal shims between the pistons and pads. These are individual assemblies with spring clips that fit into the recess of each piston and adhesive that grips the back of each pad. They are different for front vs. rear and top vs. bottom. If the current pads are still adhered, then don't be surprised if it takes some effort to release them. And obviously, the adhesive is one-time only. To renew these you need 4 different sets of 4 each.
2. Be careful about after market disks. They may be mechanically the same as factory but lack rust-preventive coating for the hat area. Don't ask how I know this...

Bill Gregory

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"><strong>after market disks lack rust-preventive coating for the hat area. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">And they do rust and look awful after awhile. So I use some light gray spray paint on the rotor hub/hat area before installing the rotors.

PhilW

There was a thread from June 2002 titled "Brake Rotor Replacement" Below is a link from that tread that I found very helpful given my ability to warp rotors.

<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71673" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71673</a>

scupper

Phil, Bill and Bob - thanks for the info. I found John Cramer's thread, with photos outstanding. But how about Mike Feinstein's comments (in the Cramer thread) regarding access to the upper caliper bolt when changing the rear rotors? Any pearls of wisdom?

Also, what about Cramer's removal of the stone guard. Any downside to this? Does removal really help keep the brakes cooler?

Chuck
93 C2

Bill Gregory

Chuck,

The only difference on the rears is they use bolts requiring allen hex's. On the upper one, I used an extended 10mm hex mounted in a socket. I believe I got mine from Performance Products. It's not a standard Sears or Home Depot stocked item. While you can undo the bolt with a standard 10mm hex and some creative wrenching, you'll need the extended hex/socket to torque the bolt when you reassemble things.

On removing the backing plates, that's fairly common for track'd 911's, as it allows more air to get to the rotor. Getting air to 964 brakes is a big challenge - you have the standard scoop on the inside bringing air to the face of the rotor, but that's just one side. There's not easy access for a kit, as on 89 and earlier 911's, to pipe air to the eye of the rotor, which is really the best answer. Even the fog light air cooling kits only point air from the wheel well towards the brakes, however, anything, including removing the backing plate, that helps the rotor throw off heat is good. For strictly street usage, however, I'd leave them on.

PhilW

<img border="0" alt="[blabla]" title="" src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" /> Last spring there was an interesting tech article from a CA PCA on improving the cooling to a lowered 964. The author points out that a lowered 964 reduces the exposure of the plastic air foil that directs air up into the wheel well. He prosed adding a second scoop below the first to regain the full effect of the air foil.

I have yet to do this, I was thinking of using some black plastic trim that is used between grass and gardens and let is self adjust by scraping the track.

I would also like to use a part off a 968 clubsport that redirects the upward moving air out towards the rotor but I can't see how it would fit. Anyone have ideas?