ddz

Thanks for the picture Greg- now I have a good idea of how to route the new line. The line that was in the car was a stainless braided rubber hose from begining to end. The braided line was resting against the top of the exhaust pipe- I'm dumbfounded that the mechanic didn't get that it was stainless wire on the outside with rubber on the inside- it was sure to get cooked! The leak progressed from a few drips to a major oil dump in about 24 hours too. I won't take "minor" oil line leaks for granted in the future.

The good news is that I got the cat and exchanger off tonight and the new parts are coming later this week- gaskets, oil line and all. Once I got everything off,the bottom of the heads and cylinders were in pretty good shape- not even wet in the expensive places. I'll tackle taking off the leaking line tomorrow...

Now, since I'm changing the oil any recommendations on synthetic/semi-synthetic/crude oil? I've heard that putting synthetic in will cause leaks that would otherwise lay dormant but don't know if that's fact or fiction.

I bought my car from my brother-in-law outside of Boston who owned it for ten years and took very good care of the car overall. It was the known history of the car that attracted me to it to begin with.

Thanks All

R6XTERRA

I did that same oil line when I first bought my car. It is actually pretty easy to route.

Greg_L

No problem
i havent seen a single drip since i changed that pipe!
I use Castrol Magnatec 10w40. I think mobil1 and other 0w40 oils can be a little thin for higher mileage engines, it can get past old rings and produce a bit of smoke.

ddz

Well, I've got everything buttoned up and its back on the road without a drip! I ended up using Mobil 1 15W-50 to get the benefits of synthetic without(hopefully) the leaks that come with very thin viscosity. Somewhere I read a tip on changing the oil filter without leaking oil into the engine compartment. It amounted to drilling a small hole in the old filter before removing it and letting it vent the oil down the line to the crankcase. I was really pleased with myself for finding such a GOOD idea to try until I went to put the new filter on(it came with the car) and found it was the wrong one! I was stranded for a few hours until I could get a ride to the local parts store!

Gotta laugh....

jimq

anybody know off hand what size the crush washer for the drain plugs are?

rick1916

Pardon my general lack of knowledge on where to ask for help re:my oil leak problem. As a very new member this thread seemed logical to me.

I've got a slow oil drip that's coming from the seam of the unibody very near the back right jack point on my '95 993. All the hoses/lines connected to the oil reservoir are clean so I'm ruling those possible attachments points out. There are two lines passing through the structure of the unibody (presumably the primary supply and return lines from tank to the engine) that I cannot inspect. I suspect one may be the source but can't get a good visual since they "disappear"into the body.

The leak started after I stupidly overfilled the car following an oil change. Could this be coincidence or related? I had pics to post but left the camera on the roof of the car. Turns out the nice little Cannon wasn't too aerodynamic.

Rocket Rob

Rick,

You may want to post this question in the 993 forum. The 964's and 993's are similar but many of the details are different. The 993 folks will be happy to answer your question.

By the way, welcome to Rennlist!

rick1916

Thanks! Seems like I'm on a general screw-up run lately.

newsboy

When you changed the oil, if you let any oil drip down from the filter, past the rags, it may be just some residual oil from the drip, working it's way out.

-nick

I'm going to prop this old thread back up - I just discovered that I've got a leak coming from this same oil line under the car (964.207.252.14) - from the oil filter housing to the bottom of the engine.

I'm just going to guess that I'll need to drain the sump + reservoir to change out this line? I've had a fairly recent oil change and would rather avoid another case of synthetic if I can.

Rocket Rob

Nick - You may get lucky draining just the crank case but I wouldn't count on it. It will depend on how much oil is in your tank versus the crank case. Note: you will want the engine to be cold. You have to drop the driver's side heat exchanger too. Take time to spray the exhaust nuts with penetrating oil. You will also need a very long allen wrench (8mm) to get some of them. You will also need a set of oil wrenches (32mm & 36mm). I have the tools if you need to borrow them.

Wachuko

Here, take a look:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...light=oil+leak

altarchsa

I replaced mine with an OE off eBAy for about $145, I think.

I've had pretty good luck with the local hydraulic shop repairing or making new hoses for me. They've even taken the metric fittings off the ends of my leaking hoses, including a short section of pipe, and welded them to new SAE pipes or hose ends. I guess the success of this aproach is a function of the capability of the individual shop. The hoses I've had them make/repair are still in good shape.

However, this is one hose I would not have a shop make/repair. It's such a painto change it, even if there are no cannibals around.

rockpicker

"32mm & 36mm"
Are these the connection sizes on the pipe shown in the pics? I need to order a crowfoot socket for mine and haven't verified the size yet.

Rocket Rob

Yes, you will need 32mm and 36mm wrenches.