Engine re-seal
08-05-2005, 10:01 AM
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Engine re-seal
I am about to purcahse a 34.000 km 94 model C2 Cab. The car seems to be leaking oil from somewhere. I have learned now that oil leaks is not so much a milage problem but rather a age problem and also that the less the engine is used the higher the likelyhood for sealing problems. I preume I just will have to live with some oil leaks.
However, does any of you have an estimate on the cost to completely re-seal the engine ?
However, does any of you have an estimate on the cost to completely re-seal the engine ?
08-05-2005, 10:21 AM
#2
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In the US... around US$5,000.00 
Let me explain... you will not only want to change all the seals but, since the engine is coming out, you will most likely change the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, update the fork to the revise part, needle bearings, etc.. while your at it... you would want to change all the hoses to the oil tank, replace the old head studs with some ARP studs, change the valve guides ( a head job if you will), change the sensors that usually go bad, brake pads, brake fluid flush, change the slave clutch cylinder, adjust emergency brake, replace all belts, on and on...
Again, you don't want to drop the engine again in a few thousand miles... so best to do it all while the engine is out this first time... that will give you peace of mind that everything that could potentially go wrong has been replaced.
Or you can clean the engine, validate what type of oil leak you have. It might be a simple leak that can be easily fixed without much work.
Let me explain... you will not only want to change all the seals but, since the engine is coming out, you will most likely change the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, update the fork to the revise part, needle bearings, etc.. while your at it... you would want to change all the hoses to the oil tank, replace the old head studs with some ARP studs, change the valve guides ( a head job if you will), change the sensors that usually go bad, brake pads, brake fluid flush, change the slave clutch cylinder, adjust emergency brake, replace all belts, on and on...
Again, you don't want to drop the engine again in a few thousand miles... so best to do it all while the engine is out this first time... that will give you peace of mind that everything that could potentially go wrong has been replaced.
Or you can clean the engine, validate what type of oil leak you have. It might be a simple leak that can be easily fixed without much work.
08-05-2005, 10:30 AM
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Common leaks are from the oil sender unit, if you take a few things out of the way you can do this yourself.
Valve covers that corrode... new ones are made from aluminum instead of magnesium.
Steering hose... you think is engine oil leak and it is only a frigging steering hose that is a bit loose...
The paper gasket in the breather cap (I know I know... let me get the real name for that part)... but I think this is the only cover that has a cheap paper gasket instead of an O ring or a proper seal...
Oil overfill... that would cause some leaks...
So again, first thing would be to clean the engine and track where the leaks are coming from before you take on a huge expense... (I would, nevertheless, change the oil hoses that go to the tank).
Hope that helps! And post photos of the car when you get a chance, Congratulations!!!
Valve covers that corrode... new ones are made from aluminum instead of magnesium.
Steering hose... you think is engine oil leak and it is only a frigging steering hose that is a bit loose...
The paper gasket in the breather cap (I know I know... let me get the real name for that part)... but I think this is the only cover that has a cheap paper gasket instead of an O ring or a proper seal...
Oil overfill... that would cause some leaks...
So again, first thing would be to clean the engine and track where the leaks are coming from before you take on a huge expense... (I would, nevertheless, change the oil hoses that go to the tank).
Hope that helps! And post photos of the car when you get a chance, Congratulations!!!
08-05-2005, 10:33 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
If the leaking isn't too bad, you might find it actually decreases with being driven more, as the seals get better lubricated, although I wouldn't count on it.
3000 km per year on average is pretty low for these cars, which seem to do better when driven regularly - has the car had all its time-related services? You know, oil change every year, brake fluid every two years, that sort of thing? If not, the first thing I'd do with the car is change ALL the fluids, then drive the car for a while, keep track of oil consumption, and figure out just what's leaking, and how much. The leaks might be in the "I can live with them" category, rather than the "The engine's gotta come out" category. Many people rebuild/reseal these cars prematurely, IMHO.
3000 km per year on average is pretty low for these cars, which seem to do better when driven regularly - has the car had all its time-related services? You know, oil change every year, brake fluid every two years, that sort of thing? If not, the first thing I'd do with the car is change ALL the fluids, then drive the car for a while, keep track of oil consumption, and figure out just what's leaking, and how much. The leaks might be in the "I can live with them" category, rather than the "The engine's gotta come out" category. Many people rebuild/reseal these cars prematurely, IMHO.
08-05-2005, 10:39 AM
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The car has a fully dockumented service history by Porsche. I have not purchased the car yet. It is 100% fantastic in all respects with e.g. original paint without scratches and dings. The interior looks like new. However, the only thing I could find was oil leakage. The car will however go to Porsche for a full check, so I hope they might give some advice on this matter as well.
08-05-2005, 10:45 AM
#6
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What I do is to keep the engine clean. I got rid of the engine tray... that way I can see/check for leaks and address them as quickly as possible... like I said, most of the times are things that are simple to fix requiring only a gasket change, hose clamp adjustment, etc.
If the PPI comes out clean, go for it. It is a great car.
If the PPI comes out clean, go for it. It is a great car.
08-05-2005, 10:46 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Wachuko
In the US... around US$5,000.00
Let me explain... you will not only want to change all the seals but, since the engine is coming out, you will most likely change the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, update the fork to the revise part, needle bearings, etc.. while your at it... you would want to change all the hoses to the oil tank, replace the old head studs with some ARP studs, change the valve guides ( a head job if you will), change the sensors that usually go bad, brake pads, brake fluid flush, change the slave clutch cylinder, adjust emergency brake, replace all belts, on and on...
Again, you don't want to drop the engine again in a few thousand miles... so best to do it all while the engine is out this first time... that will give you peace of mind that everything that could potentially go wrong has been replaced.
Or you can clean the engine, validate what type of oil leak you have. It might be a simple leak that can be easily fixed without much work.
Let me explain... you will not only want to change all the seals but, since the engine is coming out, you will most likely change the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, update the fork to the revise part, needle bearings, etc.. while your at it... you would want to change all the hoses to the oil tank, replace the old head studs with some ARP studs, change the valve guides ( a head job if you will), change the sensors that usually go bad, brake pads, brake fluid flush, change the slave clutch cylinder, adjust emergency brake, replace all belts, on and on...
Again, you don't want to drop the engine again in a few thousand miles... so best to do it all while the engine is out this first time... that will give you peace of mind that everything that could potentially go wrong has been replaced.
Or you can clean the engine, validate what type of oil leak you have. It might be a simple leak that can be easily fixed without much work.
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08-05-2005, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by puma1824
Is this $5000 with all that work done or just the reseal?
... one of the head studs popped (shot away like a bullet) while I was doing my first valve adjustment and preventive maintenance...That also included two new tires, alignment, and front brake pads.
And this was done by the local Porsche dealer... I found that the independant shops did where just as expensive with less warranty on the work...
I can tackle most of the work.. but when it came to dealing with the internals and taking the engine apart... I decided to leave it to a pro... plus I got to watch all the process and take photos... pretty cool
08-05-2005, 11:43 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Wachuko
That was my bill about a month after I got my car ... one of the head studs popped (shot away like a bullet) while I was doing my first valve adjustment and preventive maintenance...
That also included two new tires, alignment, and front brake pads.
And this was done by the local Porsche dealer... I found that the independant shops did where just as expensive with less warranty on the work...
I can tackle most of the work.. but when it came to dealing with the internals and taking the engine apart... I decided to leave it to a pro... plus I got to watch all the process and take photos... pretty cool
... one of the head studs popped (shot away like a bullet) while I was doing my first valve adjustment and preventive maintenance...That also included two new tires, alignment, and front brake pads.
And this was done by the local Porsche dealer... I found that the independant shops did where just as expensive with less warranty on the work...
I can tackle most of the work.. but when it came to dealing with the internals and taking the engine apart... I decided to leave it to a pro... plus I got to watch all the process and take photos... pretty cool
08-05-2005, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by puma1824
So this included the clutch work too? I may do this if I can get around the same quote in my area (MD)
I was pretty much a top end rebuild+clutch+brakes job... all Porsche parts (I should have gone with ARP studs but ended up with stock ones...). This included the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, engine gasket/seal kit, one exhaust stud, belts (AC/ALT/PowerSteering pump), oil sender unit, the metal strap that holds the fan housing in place, two tires, pads, brake fluid, alignment, and a few other things that I can't remember now... that was back in 2001.
08-05-2005, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Indycam
Aloha Baltazar100
At 21,000 miles / 34.000 km you probably don't need a few of the things listed .
Headstuds , valveguides and the clutch slave cylinder should last well past 34,000 kms.
"However, does any of you have an estimate on the cost to completely re-seal the engine ?"
Things / prices are very different in Japan . I don't know what a reseal would cost in Japan .
Do you work on your cars yourself ?
I would call around and ask for prices in Japan , just to get a feel for what it costs .
Can you read the date code on the tire sidewall ?
How old are the tires ?
At 21,000 miles / 34.000 km you probably don't need a few of the things listed .
Headstuds , valveguides and the clutch slave cylinder should last well past 34,000 kms.
"However, does any of you have an estimate on the cost to completely re-seal the engine ?"
Things / prices are very different in Japan . I don't know what a reseal would cost in Japan .
Do you work on your cars yourself ?
I would call around and ask for prices in Japan , just to get a feel for what it costs .
Can you read the date code on the tire sidewall ?
How old are the tires ?
My suggestion was from a, "while you are there", for the peace of mind. But like I said... best to just clean the engine and track the actual culprit instead of doing a complete engine re-seal from the get go...
Last edited by Wachuko; 08-05-2005 at 06:27 PM.
08-05-2005, 06:26 PM
#12
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baltazar100,
A 1994 car with 21k miles, wow! That should be one fine ride. If the pre-purchase inspection goes well I would say buy it! As some folks here have stated the leaks usually are easy to fix and if you are handy with tools you can fix them yourself. There is a lot of good info in Rennlist to help you along.
1994 was the last year these cars were made so all the major stuff was already addressed by Porsche. That is another plus for that year. You mentioned all records are included, another plus. It sounds like a great car to buy if the PPI shows everything in order.
Give us some background. Will this be your first Porsche? Are you familiar with the 911? Do you do some of the mechanical work in your cars or none?
Remember that we post here the problems we come across with our cars... that could scare new buyers. What you don't read is all the years of excellent service we get from our cars. A 911 is truly the best sport car you can drive on a daily basis.
I see you are also new to Rennlist, so a WELCOME is in order. Take care and I hope to see a few photos of your new car and a big smile in your face. Cheers
A 1994 car with 21k miles, wow! That should be one fine ride. If the pre-purchase inspection goes well I would say buy it! As some folks here have stated the leaks usually are easy to fix and if you are handy with tools you can fix them yourself. There is a lot of good info in Rennlist to help you along.
1994 was the last year these cars were made so all the major stuff was already addressed by Porsche. That is another plus for that year. You mentioned all records are included, another plus. It sounds like a great car to buy if the PPI shows everything in order.
Give us some background. Will this be your first Porsche? Are you familiar with the 911? Do you do some of the mechanical work in your cars or none?
Remember that we post here the problems we come across with our cars... that could scare new buyers. What you don't read is all the years of excellent service we get from our cars. A 911 is truly the best sport car you can drive on a daily basis.
I see you are also new to Rennlist, so a WELCOME is in order. Take care and I hope to see a few photos of your new car and a big smile in your face. Cheers
08-06-2005, 12:36 AM
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Jamie,
I took your adivice and posted a welcome thread and thanks for the advice buying a 964.
I have already purchased some 964 books and I plan to get to know this car well and do some basic maintenace myself. I beleive that might help to avoid the paranioa some 964 owners seems tio have.
Will post pictures including a big smile on my face as soon as I have purchased the car.
I took your adivice and posted a welcome thread and thanks for the advice buying a 964.
I have already purchased some 964 books and I plan to get to know this car well and do some basic maintenace myself. I beleive that might help to avoid the paranioa some 964 owners seems tio have.
Will post pictures including a big smile on my face as soon as I have purchased the car.
