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Need some help with convertible top

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Old 08-05-2005, 10:37 AM
  #16  
Nutbeem
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Yeah, I had the cable snap too. So my guy says I need a new motor and cable assembly, $800 please. Happy to pay it, I reply.

2 weeks later, SNAP on the other side. That will be $700 please. Certainly, my priviledge, I respond.

So, $1500 later, my top is sweeeeet.

I do have post traumatic stress disorder, though. Everytime I hear a crack or a pop, I think the top is going...
Old 08-05-2005, 10:57 AM
  #17  
jimq
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Yeah, I had the cable snap too. So my guy says I need a new motor and cable assembly, $800 please. Happy to pay it, I reply.

2 weeks later, SNAP on the other side. That will be $700 please. Certainly, my priviledge, I respond.
why cheaper the 2nd time? Feel sorry for you
Old 09-19-2010, 10:05 PM
  #18  
hawk911
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damn--- this post is EXACTLY what happened to me this weekend. Great find, and now the repair begins over the winter.
Old 02-15-2012, 03:17 PM
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scped
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Let me join the club - driver's side post snapped. Following this group advice, I removed the part and had is welded ($150 here in NH). Now that I have the frame back together, are there any DIYs or best practices on re-attatching the canvas? Is this one of those "if you have to ask get a professional" tasks?

Thanks to all for the help to date.

Cheers,
scped
Old 04-12-2012, 02:10 PM
  #20  
Mark Bowyer
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Exclamation It's 2012 and I have a broken roof that needs repairing

Guy's I know it been 7 years from your posts but I wonder if your still out there for an ex pompey boy who's in New York and needs help?
Old 04-12-2012, 02:31 PM
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hamah
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Sorry I can't help you myself but I'd like to ask a question. If this were to happen (the one side snaps and is not retracting while the other side is) what do you do? Obviously stop trying to retract the top but what then? How do you get it either back up or fully retracted if only one side is functional? (in case this ever happens to me)
Old 04-12-2012, 02:38 PM
  #22  
Mark Bowyer
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Default Sounds like you have issues

Hamah,

When mine went one side worked fine and the otherside was jammed causing it to twist and break in one place. also ripped the roof and created all sorts of bloody nightmares for me. mostly $$$$$$$$ but any way. I found a spanner and put it on the nut of the motor and moved it back and forth a few times and it released the binding and they work fine now but you have to help the roof extend and contract from outside the car to make sure it closes and opens without any additional worries of damage

what's your doing or are you looking for preventative action at this point?
Old 04-12-2012, 02:54 PM
  #23  
jody stowitts
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FWIW, give the whole mechanism a "tune-up" periodically (DIY if 90+% knowledgeable, or a shop that KNOWS what its doing). As many know, the cables stretch over time and need to be snugged up and possibly "timed", (left side-right side even amount). Good idea to fit the newer style posts (locking pins) that fit into the windshield frame, too, if not already retrofitted.
Old 04-12-2012, 07:09 PM
  #24  
jimq
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Originally Posted by jody stowitts
.....................rame, too, if not already retrofitted.
never heard about new pins. Where do you get them and how do you know if you have the new ones.
Old 04-12-2012, 08:08 PM
  #25  
jody stowitts
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jimq: My mechanic (indie) checked my whole assembly, adjusted, explained all the particulars, etc., then noticed the pins were the older type, and put in the newer "better" ones at the next appt. when replacing one of the little lock down motors (?) at the front of the top. One side wasn't getting a real firm bite on the pin. The motor apparently had plastic gears (?) and was crapping out. That's all I know. Seem to remember though, that the newer ones had less of a bullet shaped tip. I'm sure if you ask around enough, someone will be able to corroborate this. CHEERS



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