964 Trailer Hitch
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A while back (February?), there was a thread about superchargers in which GavinB mentioned a custom hitch mount for his Targa. I am thinking about just such an option for my RSA, to pull a small trailer with my second set of wheels and box of assorted stuff to DEs and Auto-Xs. Since it seems like there are no commercial options (at least that I can track down), I would be really interested in hearing from anyone who has mounted a hitch to a 964... especially if you have pictures, drawings, or are blessed with an awesome ability to describe mechanical concepts. Let me know.....
Thanks, Mark.
Thanks, Mark.
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I recall that Jack Olsen posted a response to a thread I started a few months ago in which he stated that he uses a Thule roof rack to carry extra wheels and other stuff to DE. I think he said he uses the rack for two wheels and places the other two wheels in the back seat. He attached a photo or two. I don't recall whether the thread was posted here or on Pelican's site.
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Jack might chime in, but I recall his roof basket with 3 tires on it, assume anothers inside somewhere. On my prior SC, I went through carrying them all inside (even with a rollbar!), then changed to a roof rack, with the tires stacked side by side. Found that approach pushed the bars apart after several hours on the road, but a couple of ropes fixed that.
However, on the C2, I also plan on hauling a small trailer (harbor freight 3'x4' 12" tires $250 incl. spare). I've seen two hitch versions that make use of the fact that the C2 has a cup bypass pipe on, freeing up some real estate to attach to. Only concern I've heard with this approach is if the hitch points out the back and is attached to the engine block (around the cup bypass pipe), and you're hit from behind, the wrong type of hit could crack the block. I know someone else that went through the bumper, but still had a steel support that bolted up to the engine support, just under and behind the pipe bypass. There's supposedly a body guy that shares EPE's shop outside Boston who has done a few of these - I need to call or go see him.
However, on the C2, I also plan on hauling a small trailer (harbor freight 3'x4' 12" tires $250 incl. spare). I've seen two hitch versions that make use of the fact that the C2 has a cup bypass pipe on, freeing up some real estate to attach to. Only concern I've heard with this approach is if the hitch points out the back and is attached to the engine block (around the cup bypass pipe), and you're hit from behind, the wrong type of hit could crack the block. I know someone else that went through the bumper, but still had a steel support that bolted up to the engine support, just under and behind the pipe bypass. There's supposedly a body guy that shares EPE's shop outside Boston who has done a few of these - I need to call or go see him.
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Guys,
Porsche did offer an optional trailer hook/hitch (tow bar where I come from) and if you have the 964 Carrera wiring diagrams you should find the wiring diagram to hook it up,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
PS: I have never seen a 911 with a tow bar. I have seen a Corvette with a tow bar, towing a trailer made out of another Corvette.
Porsche did offer an optional trailer hook/hitch (tow bar where I come from) and if you have the 964 Carrera wiring diagrams you should find the wiring diagram to hook it up,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
PS: I have never seen a 911 with a tow bar. I have seen a Corvette with a tow bar, towing a trailer made out of another Corvette.
#5
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Mark,
A guy in my PCA region made a bumper hitch for his 964 that bolted through the "USA crash bumper" at the license plate location, from a piece of 6x6 steel angle. If you are interested he did a write-up on the hitch, but it is only in hardcopy.
Send me a fax number and I will try to send you a copy of the article
Mike
A guy in my PCA region made a bumper hitch for his 964 that bolted through the "USA crash bumper" at the license plate location, from a piece of 6x6 steel angle. If you are interested he did a write-up on the hitch, but it is only in hardcopy.
Send me a fax number and I will try to send you a copy of the article
Mike
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I too am interested in pulling a small trailer behind my 93 RSA. Although I recieved the following information from Richard Moist, I have not gotten around to have the hitch made.
"I have a hitch on my C2 and a trailer like you want. The first muffler (across back) must be replaced with pipe. Then remove bumper and put two bolt in bumper support at about 6" either side of center. Weld tab on head of bolt and secure so bolt can't come out or turn. Bolt point forward and stick out about 1.5 in. 1/2 in. bolt good. Replace bumper.
Bolt 1/2 x 1/1/2 in. bar to front of bumper support ( up where the muffler was). Weld a vertical bar to front of bar just set. On the bottom of this bar a bar about 8 in. long is welded so that it is even with under side of bumper and parallel to it, with only 1/8 in or so clearance. This assembly is left in car all the time.
To the bottom bar bolt another identical bar to it. weld a 1" receiver to this bar. Put the tow hook in place in rear bumper. run a bar to this tow hook for vertical support, Bolt to tow hook.
Now you have three bolts and tow hook to take you hitch off when you don't need it."
I also have two photos of the finished hitch and will attempt to attach them to this message.
In any event, if anyone has one made, I would be interested in paying for a second to be made at the same time. I hope this helps. Best of luck, Adam in West Palm Beach, Florida 561-682-4123.
![](http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/HitchPhoto1a.jpg)
"I have a hitch on my C2 and a trailer like you want. The first muffler (across back) must be replaced with pipe. Then remove bumper and put two bolt in bumper support at about 6" either side of center. Weld tab on head of bolt and secure so bolt can't come out or turn. Bolt point forward and stick out about 1.5 in. 1/2 in. bolt good. Replace bumper.
Bolt 1/2 x 1/1/2 in. bar to front of bumper support ( up where the muffler was). Weld a vertical bar to front of bar just set. On the bottom of this bar a bar about 8 in. long is welded so that it is even with under side of bumper and parallel to it, with only 1/8 in or so clearance. This assembly is left in car all the time.
To the bottom bar bolt another identical bar to it. weld a 1" receiver to this bar. Put the tow hook in place in rear bumper. run a bar to this tow hook for vertical support, Bolt to tow hook.
Now you have three bolts and tow hook to take you hitch off when you don't need it."
I also have two photos of the finished hitch and will attempt to attach them to this message.
In any event, if anyone has one made, I would be interested in paying for a second to be made at the same time. I hope this helps. Best of luck, Adam in West Palm Beach, Florida 561-682-4123.
![](http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/HitchPhoto1a.jpg)
![](http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/HitchPhoto2a.jpg)
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#8
Burning Brakes
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Check out this web page. It has a good description of a hitch.<a href="http://www.pca.org/hcp/de_trailer.htm" target="_blank">http://www.pca.org/hcp/de_trailer.htm</a>
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Hey guys,
I tow a trailer with my 993 and it works great. My only advice since I know the hitches are different is to read the article in the above post and spend the extra money on the armorrex trailer. <a href="http://www.armorrex.com/sublist.cfm?Category=OTHERS&subcategory=TRAILER&ID=131" target="_blank">Here</a>is the link to the specifc model I recommend. THe difference between this trailer and the cheap-o harbour freight is night and day. There is a reason I see Miatas using that trailer. It looks very old after a little use, while the armorrex trailer is black painted or powdercoated and is built to a much higher spec. To be honest the difference is night and day.
Since I use 18 inch tires I can not fit them four across like in the article. Another trick is to use the same tool box from home depot, but with a little angle iron it fits down into the frame of the trailer very well. Also buy a bunch of U bolts and eye bolts and drill them all over the main frame part - they are indespensible when it comes time to secure the tires with tie down straps.
If anyone has any specific questions you can email me. I think there is a section of my webiste devoted to the trailer under the DIY section. The link is in my signature.
Here is the best pic I could find in short notice:
![](http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/DSCN025222.jpg)
E. J.
PS - dont forget the full size spare tire for the trialer. You can get some long (8 inch) bolts and attach it to the main fore-aft support part under the bottom of the trailer so it doesnt take up any usable room. Plan on half a day to put it together and drill the holes and all the other extra stuff. Also buy the optional foot for a few dollars so you dont have to carry an extra jack stand to the track to keep the tounge off the ground.
I tow a trailer with my 993 and it works great. My only advice since I know the hitches are different is to read the article in the above post and spend the extra money on the armorrex trailer. <a href="http://www.armorrex.com/sublist.cfm?Category=OTHERS&subcategory=TRAILER&ID=131" target="_blank">Here</a>is the link to the specifc model I recommend. THe difference between this trailer and the cheap-o harbour freight is night and day. There is a reason I see Miatas using that trailer. It looks very old after a little use, while the armorrex trailer is black painted or powdercoated and is built to a much higher spec. To be honest the difference is night and day.
Since I use 18 inch tires I can not fit them four across like in the article. Another trick is to use the same tool box from home depot, but with a little angle iron it fits down into the frame of the trailer very well. Also buy a bunch of U bolts and eye bolts and drill them all over the main frame part - they are indespensible when it comes time to secure the tires with tie down straps.
If anyone has any specific questions you can email me. I think there is a section of my webiste devoted to the trailer under the DIY section. The link is in my signature.
Here is the best pic I could find in short notice:
![](http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/DSCN025222.jpg)
E. J.
PS - dont forget the full size spare tire for the trialer. You can get some long (8 inch) bolts and attach it to the main fore-aft support part under the bottom of the trailer so it doesnt take up any usable room. Plan on half a day to put it together and drill the holes and all the other extra stuff. Also buy the optional foot for a few dollars so you dont have to carry an extra jack stand to the track to keep the tounge off the ground.
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In regards to that article I posted about above, does anyone know why this would only be possible on 1992 and later 964s? What is different in the earlier cars?
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I haven't tried, yet, but I was wondering if and 964 guys know of a way to get four 17" tires inside of the car. I'd like to take them to local autocross events, but have no desire to convert my car to a tow rig. Can it be done?
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[quote]<strong> know of a way to get four 17" tires inside of the car. </strong><hr></blockquote>
You can usually put 1-2 tires behind the seats and stack the others on the passenger seat. It may take some jockeying of the passenger seat as well as the rake of the back. 55 gallon garbage bags work well to easily cover each wheel.
You can usually put 1-2 tires behind the seats and stack the others on the passenger seat. It may take some jockeying of the passenger seat as well as the rake of the back. 55 gallon garbage bags work well to easily cover each wheel.
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Thanks to all of you for the great response! The angle plate behind the license plate looks like the perfect alternative... with the only planned difference being a 2" square receptacle so I can switch to a bike rack (my other Porsche is a...) or a hitch for the trailer. The ArmorRex trailer does appear to be more substantial than the Harbour Freight rig, and the price isn't really that much more. Also, one last question for EJ: how does the trailer equipped 993 handle? I don't intend to be managing many 6 wheel drifts, but would like to know how the setup would behave at highway speeds and on the occasional twisty road.
Thanks again, Mark.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Thanks again, Mark.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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[quote]Originally posted by Mark Hathaway:
<strong> Also, one last question for EJ: how does the trailer equipped 993 handle? Thanks again, Mark.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Mark,
Once you get used to the tounge of the trailer moving around on the ball, you dont even notive it's there. The car is a little slower off the line, but up to 90mph is fine. Its hard to explain, but you really get used to it and forget it's there. Good luck and have fun.
The other advantages of the armorrex trailer is the larger wheels make the trailer handle the bumps better. I also forgot to mention that you can get a diamond plate steel deck for the trailer too. THe web article talks about using marine plywood - no need - get the deck for a few dollars more at the same time.
E. J.
<strong> Also, one last question for EJ: how does the trailer equipped 993 handle? Thanks again, Mark.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Mark,
Once you get used to the tounge of the trailer moving around on the ball, you dont even notive it's there. The car is a little slower off the line, but up to 90mph is fine. Its hard to explain, but you really get used to it and forget it's there. Good luck and have fun.
The other advantages of the armorrex trailer is the larger wheels make the trailer handle the bumps better. I also forgot to mention that you can get a diamond plate steel deck for the trailer too. THe web article talks about using marine plywood - no need - get the deck for a few dollars more at the same time.
E. J.