Door Striker Mechanism Woe?
06-22-2003, 08:36 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Door Striker Mechanism Woe?
I have an irratating problem with my driver's door.
When I shut the door after getting in the car, using the inside door handle, it does not stay fully latched. It is only "half latched", meaning I can wiggle the door - If I roll down the window, reopen the door and then apply firm, downward pressure on the external door handle as I reclose it, the door stays fully latched. (NOTE: it is not a "sealed car" problem - this occurs even when the windows are down) - When I leave the car, I have to shut the door, again with firm pressure, on door handle area in order for it to stay fully latched.
Is this a striker problem, or something loose inside the door latching machasism? Any other thoughts?
Thanks for your help!
Chuck
93 C2
When I shut the door after getting in the car, using the inside door handle, it does not stay fully latched. It is only "half latched", meaning I can wiggle the door - If I roll down the window, reopen the door and then apply firm, downward pressure on the external door handle as I reclose it, the door stays fully latched. (NOTE: it is not a "sealed car" problem - this occurs even when the windows are down) - When I leave the car, I have to shut the door, again with firm pressure, on door handle area in order for it to stay fully latched.
Is this a striker problem, or something loose inside the door latching machasism? Any other thoughts?
Thanks for your help!
Chuck
93 C2
06-23-2003, 07:45 AM
#2
Race Car
Chuck, a few things this could be:
1) the latching mechanism in your door may be worn
2) the door may be maligned
3) the striker that remains on the body of the vehicle (the mechanism that engages the latch) is not adjusted properly.
When I changed out the door on my 964 last Fall (after my "oopsie") ...it took SEVERAL adjustments to get it right - downright irritating.
Make sure you get the correct ribe tool if you loosen up the striker in your door jamb!! If you strip out those bolts you're gonna pay.
I found mine at a small independent auto store...if you need mine, lemme know via EMAIL...I can ship it over to you and send a pic or two on how to use it.
A couple of adjustments and learning how NOT to snug down the striker too much between adjustments will be the key. Once the adjustment is "A"-okay, you can snug the two bolts down good.
1) the latching mechanism in your door may be worn
2) the door may be maligned
3) the striker that remains on the body of the vehicle (the mechanism that engages the latch) is not adjusted properly.
When I changed out the door on my 964 last Fall (after my "oopsie") ...it took SEVERAL adjustments to get it right - downright irritating.
Make sure you get the correct ribe tool if you loosen up the striker in your door jamb!! If you strip out those bolts you're gonna pay.
I found mine at a small independent auto store...if you need mine, lemme know via EMAIL...I can ship it over to you and send a pic or two on how to use it.
A couple of adjustments and learning how NOT to snug down the striker too much between adjustments will be the key. Once the adjustment is "A"-okay, you can snug the two bolts down good.
06-23-2003, 12:01 PM
#3
Drifting
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds, where I have run into this many lamp
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Jeff
I need to re-hang my rH door- there is just a hint of up & down play in it - enough so that it doesn'r close 'quietly'. It closes fine if I left as I shut the door.
Is a door pin replacement a DIY or is 'special tool' & paint sctratching for dummies??
The play seems to be most prominent in the lower hinge.
I need to re-hang my rH door- there is just a hint of up & down play in it - enough so that it doesn'r close 'quietly'. It closes fine if I left as I shut the door.
Is a door pin replacement a DIY or is 'special tool' & paint sctratching for dummies??
The play seems to be most prominent in the lower hinge.
06-24-2003, 06:55 AM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input, Jeff - I learned yesterday that the wrench needed is a "triple square" although there is some confusion whether it's a 6 8mm. See this link from the Snap-On web site. or <a href="http://tinyurl.com/f3wq" target="_blank">http://tinyurl.com/f3wq</a> I found a set of four (6,8,10,12) (not from snappy) that should arrive today. BTW, I had NEVER heard of triple square drives before yesterday. The pattern is just that, three squares, each offset by 30 degrees. In my search, I kept describing the drive as a 12 point Hex - which doesn't make any sense at all! 
My friends on the BMW/Porsche garage Yahoo group set me straight.
I'm hoping all I need is a striker plate adjustment - but a rattle in the left door also bothers me and I wonder if there is something else going on.
Is there a DIY description for removing the inner door panel to gain access to the latching and window mechanisms? As usual, thanks for the help.
Chuck
93 C2
My friends on the BMW/Porsche garage Yahoo group set me straight. I'm hoping all I need is a striker plate adjustment - but a rattle in the left door also bothers me and I wonder if there is something else going on.
Is there a DIY description for removing the inner door panel to gain access to the latching and window mechanisms? As usual, thanks for the help.
Chuck
93 C2
06-24-2003, 08:17 AM
#5
Race Car
Chuck, search the archives for door panel removal...I seem to remember a comprehensive procedure someone had typed out, it may have even been ME?? 
Anyway, good deal on the tool, hope it's the right one...hopefully your adjustment goes well as it's a pain in the A__! <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />
John, order new hinge pins and replace them one at a time, it's a job where you need to be careful as well. Use a good punch to get them out and careful when driving them back in.
Use grease on the pins and watch your paint...it's "tricky" to say the least! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
Anyway, good deal on the tool, hope it's the right one...hopefully your adjustment goes well as it's a pain in the A__! <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />
John, order new hinge pins and replace them one at a time, it's a job where you need to be careful as well. Use a good punch to get them out and careful when driving them back in.
Use grease on the pins and watch your paint...it's "tricky" to say the least! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
07-11-2003, 10:22 AM
#6
Drifting
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds, where I have run into this many lamp
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Jeff
will a normal punch do it?? Having had a closer look, there is not much chance of getting a punch straight onto the pin - I'll have to approach at an angle. I may look at using the drpaer door pin remover tool.
will a normal punch do it?? Having had a closer look, there is not much chance of getting a punch straight onto the pin - I'll have to approach at an angle. I may look at using the drpaer door pin remover tool.
07-11-2003, 03:57 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Will readjusting this crap help rid me of the dreaded door noise when rolling over bad pavement? My alley way is cobblestone and when ever I drive over it I get a rattle in each door that when I open the door goes away. I am possitive that it is the door jittering on the locking mechanism and it is killing me!
