Euromagination

Thanks Marc!

TroyN

I've installed the RS short shifter, and from what I recall, it's #26 and the little clip as well. They are little plastic oval-ish plates with a hole through which that tube passes; bushings. The round clip holds the tube and keeps it from sliding out of the bushing. If you look at the rear of the tube, you should see the corresponding rear part (also #26).

By the way, you should get ahold of the short shifter, great upgrade. Carnewal's got it. Good luck!

Euromagination

Another question...

In relation to #27 on the exploded pic that garrett put up, does anyone know exactly how it's supposed to fit? It it supposed to fit tighly in the holes it gets near, or is it just a guide? The picture shows nothing.

My #11, #8, and #6 are fine. I think it's just the bearing plate (#24), and the angular joint (#16), but I have yet to look.

Jeff Curtis

Is part# 11 still connected properly to the shift rod (part# 12)?? From looking at the diagram, I'm guessing that the reason you can pull up on the entire assembly would be that connection??

I have an ENTIRE spare shifter assembly, maybe I can take pics of it to clarify things...or if you were to need parts from it I guess we could work something out.

Let me know via PM or replying to this post.

Euromagination

Jeff,

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that, but I'll save that part for PM. To answer your question, part #11 is connected to #12 just fine. Nice and tight. From what I can tell, that connection would keep from pulling the shift lever itself up out of its spot, but my problem is that the whole assembly pulls up because the #27 guide tube came out of its hole in the front as shown in the pic below...



In addition to that, I think it only worked its way out because the bearing plate #24 is broken or disconnected from angular joint #16. I can tell something is broken up there because of the way it wiggles. I just haven't gotten a chance to jack up the car, take the tunnel off, and take a look yet.

Right now I'm trying to figure out exactly how #27 is supposed to "fit" with some plastic inserts around it to keep it in place. It keeps moving and I know it's supposed to be snug, I just don't know how I would do that. Maybe pop the retaining pins (aka lock rings) off of the ends of #27, install the tube with the black plastic inserts on the inner sides of it, then pop the lock rings back in to keep it snug, but I'm not sure how this is.

Basically, I want to find out about this so I know what parts to get, and I can knock this whole thing out at once. In the pic I posted above, you can clearly see one of the black plastic inserts that are broken. The one you see is the one that was around the front of #27 (which is right next to it), and there is also one just like it broken from the rear section of #27. The exploded picture that we are referencing only shows #4's, which are parts of guide piece #2-3.

Euromagination

shameless bump

TroyN

Did you not see my earlier post? The small clips, #28, clip onto each end of 27 and hold it from sliding back through 26.

Euromagination

I think I see what you're saying now! I was looking at the picture wrong and subsequently overlooked your point. Apologies.

So it's two #26's I need? One for the front and one for the back of tube #27? Is that what you're saying? If so, I wonder where the rest of those pieces went? All that was up there what that little round part. Maybe they're in the tunnel, I still haven't gotten under there. Been trying to gather part numbers.

Thnx,
H

TroyN

I would guess that you would only need the front 26 and 28 pair since the rear seems to be holding in place. I am at a loss for which part the black broken piece in your photo is though. I checked the PET to make sure the diagram for the 964 and 993 were similar, and they are, so I'm pretty confident that is your problem (not that something else is also not wrong). Note that there was a different part # spec'd for 26 depending on the year of your car:

964 424 224 01: -91 (assuming that means up to 91)
964 424 028 00: 92- (assuming 92 and up)

I think you had mentioned 24 being broken or disconnected but I doubt it, and you'd only be able to tell after you get under the car.

You should install the RS short shifter while you're in there, about $100 from Gert and well worth it. Good luck!

Euromagination

Yeah, the only reason why I think #24 is broken is because I can move that whole guide rod all around and from side-to-side. It just seems too loose to "guide" anything.

I plan to look this weekend. I've been slackin'. And now you have me thinkin' short shifter.

bhensarl

Does the 993 short shift kit work for the 964 as well? I couldn't find a 964 kit on carnewal.com.
Brian

burgass

Brian. RUF has the kit for both C2 and C4 Actually the only one available for C4 A bit overpriced but well worth the $$$
I have it and I love it.
Do a seach and you will see the difference and the pictures
The RS kit does not work on a C4 I started with the RS kit but it showed that it did not even get higher and I had to do a lot of modifications Lost a lot of time

Euromagination

So it looks to me like the RS short shifter has a different design not using the "ball" on the bearing plate that plugs into the angular joint, as the factory C2 setup. The stock C2 setup uses the bearing plate (#24) and angular joint (#16) are ~$35 and ~$65, respectively. So that's $100 for those two parts...

So if I were to get one of those rs short shift kits, is it true that I wouldn't have to buy the factory bearing plate or angular joint because the new parts in the kit will serve as a replacement?

I'm also slightly confused about the "2 piece" and "3 piece" shift kit sets.

THnx...
-H

TroyN

Hi Brian, according to the PET the part number for the lever and fork are the same for the 964 and the 993 (both 964 424 015 08 for the lever, didn't bother double-checking the fork; would assume it's basically 964-based). I'm not sure why Carnewal shows no shifter for the 964, I had suggested to Harry to try Gert (info@carnewal.com) so hopefully he'll post back w/ confirmation.

You can buy a new shift rod with solid joints also on Carnewal, but most people seem to (and Gert recommended this too) just go with the lever and fork. I think you'd go with the rod if you wanted to get that last bit of slop out, but the price/benefit ratio goes way up in that case.

Harry, re: 24 and 16, I still wouldn't suggest ordering those parts without checking first. There is a lot of movement available in that rod, especially due to that ball/joint connection. It's much more likely that little plastic piece broke vs. a bolted on metal piece. The ball fits into that joint very tightly too, so unless it's gotten really worn it'd be hard to pop it out. You'll see when you get to popping the ball on the bottom of 1 out of the joint on 15 (when you change the lever to the short shift lever. )

One more edit: there's a write-up on p-car.com and I had also posted some DIY notes on the 993 board re: the shifter install.

bhensarl

Thanks for the info on the shifter guys.
Brian