valve adjustment question
#16
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[Edit - later cars did in fact have plastic intake manifolds instead of aluminum, I understand the problem now. Good luck!
]
Jaime,
but that's my point - there is no plastic bearing torsional loads because the bolts that hold the blower motor assembly in place, go directly into threaded holes in the aluminum intake manifold. The aluminum intake manifold is a giant metal nut for the bolt, if you will.
Tom Sharpes' article on the Pelican site describing replacement of the blower motor assembly with updated 993 assembly, has a diagram showing these bolts.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ower_motor.htm
It is still a mystery to me which bolts you guys are talking about.
[Edit - no longer...]
You do have aluminum intake manifolds, don't you? I understand that later 964s had plastic rather than aluminum throttle bodies, but I thought we all had aluminum intake manifolds.
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Jaime,
but that's my point - there is no plastic bearing torsional loads because the bolts that hold the blower motor assembly in place, go directly into threaded holes in the aluminum intake manifold. The aluminum intake manifold is a giant metal nut for the bolt, if you will.
Tom Sharpes' article on the Pelican site describing replacement of the blower motor assembly with updated 993 assembly, has a diagram showing these bolts.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ower_motor.htm
It is still a mystery to me which bolts you guys are talking about.
[Edit - no longer...]
You do have aluminum intake manifolds, don't you? I understand that later 964s had plastic rather than aluminum throttle bodies, but I thought we all had aluminum intake manifolds.
Last edited by Dave R.; 06-02-2005 at 02:15 PM.
#17
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Sure, access is better for cyls 1-3 if you remove the sheet metal, but
a) don't you have to remove the blower motor assembly anyway to get to the O2 sensor connector? and
b) with the blower motor assembly out of the way, access to the intake valves for cyls 1-3 is still very good.
For cyls 4-6, I agree that removing the sheet metal and coming from below is vastly superior - getting to the #6 intake valve from the top is a bear because of the power steering pump.
a) don't you have to remove the blower motor assembly anyway to get to the O2 sensor connector? and
b) with the blower motor assembly out of the way, access to the intake valves for cyls 1-3 is still very good.
For cyls 4-6, I agree that removing the sheet metal and coming from below is vastly superior - getting to the #6 intake valve from the top is a bear because of the power steering pump.
#18
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Bolts seize and the whole assembly turns in the plastic... making it impossible (or extremely dificult ) to remove the bolts...
Anyway, no big deal, problem solved. I'll work from below.
thanks for all the help guys,
c
#19
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All valves are adjusted! "Feeler" gauge is the right word for that tool. Several of them I couldn't really see while working. I'm just too tall to see some of the uppers while sitting on the ground-a lift would be nice. And actually getting the right feel is the simplest part of all this. It's getting the gauge back there in the first place that's the challenge.
Several of mine were so tight that I had to back the nut off just to get the gauge in the gap and then go from there. Others didn't need any adjusting and I did all of them except #4 intake from below. Taking off the blower motor is definitely not necessary.
Only problem is that one of my plugs started stripping when I was putting it back in and those things are impossible to find at an ordinary auto parts store. Even the local Porsche specialists don't keep them on hand which really surprised me. Anyway if it weren't for that I'd be putting her all back together today and going for a drive.
Thanks for everyone's help.
c
Several of mine were so tight that I had to back the nut off just to get the gauge in the gap and then go from there. Others didn't need any adjusting and I did all of them except #4 intake from below. Taking off the blower motor is definitely not necessary.
Only problem is that one of my plugs started stripping when I was putting it back in and those things are impossible to find at an ordinary auto parts store. Even the local Porsche specialists don't keep them on hand which really surprised me. Anyway if it weren't for that I'd be putting her all back together today and going for a drive.
Thanks for everyone's help.
c
#21
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
Only problem is that one of my plugs started stripping when I was putting it back in and those things are impossible to find at an ordinary auto parts store.
Last edited by JasonAndreas; 06-04-2005 at 03:07 PM.
#22
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Yes, a spark plug. I got another one and it went right in. Put everything back together and she started right up! What a relief!
Very gratifying.
c
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c
#23
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
... always read of people having difficulty turning the engine over by hand with the sparkplugs still in place but I haven't had that problem and I'm wondering if my rings are shot or if because I don't have AC or power-steering it makes things a little easier?
You might want to perform a compression test to confirm. How many miles in your car?
#24
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Originally Posted by Wachuko
I find it hard to turn the engine if I don't remove the spark plugs...
Originally Posted by Wachuko
You might want to perform a compression test to confirm.
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Originally Posted by Wachuko
How many miles in your car?
#25
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Originally Posted by Indycam
Arms like Popeye ?
Do you just grab the crank pully bare handed and spin it ?
Do you just grab the crank pully bare handed and spin it ?
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#26
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Jason,
I don't have any problem turning the engine over using the the wrench included in the toolkit. Sometimes I have to squeeze the belt together for more traction, but it turns okay..... I've got 107k on the car, and it doesn't use oil, so i'm assuming everything is okay....... and i've got power steering.... maybe it's just easier to hand crank black cars.....
I don't have any problem turning the engine over using the the wrench included in the toolkit. Sometimes I have to squeeze the belt together for more traction, but it turns okay..... I've got 107k on the car, and it doesn't use oil, so i'm assuming everything is okay....... and i've got power steering.... maybe it's just easier to hand crank black cars.....
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#28
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
All valves are adjusted! "Feeler" gauge is the right word for that tool. Several of them I couldn't really see while working. I'm just too tall to see some of the uppers while sitting on the ground-a lift would be nice. And actually getting the right feel is the simplest part of all this. It's getting the gauge back there in the first place that's the challenge.
Several of mine were so tight that I had to back the nut off just to get the gauge in the gap and then go from there. Others didn't need any adjusting and I did all of them except #4 intake from below. Taking off the blower motor is definitely not necessary.
Only problem is that one of my plugs started stripping when I was putting it back in and those things are impossible to find at an ordinary auto parts store. Even the local Porsche specialists don't keep them on hand which really surprised me. Anyway if it weren't for that I'd be putting her all back together today and going for a drive.
Thanks for everyone's help.
c
Several of mine were so tight that I had to back the nut off just to get the gauge in the gap and then go from there. Others didn't need any adjusting and I did all of them except #4 intake from below. Taking off the blower motor is definitely not necessary.
Only problem is that one of my plugs started stripping when I was putting it back in and those things are impossible to find at an ordinary auto parts store. Even the local Porsche specialists don't keep them on hand which really surprised me. Anyway if it weren't for that I'd be putting her all back together today and going for a drive.
Thanks for everyone's help.
c
"several were so tight that I had to back thenut off.."
That really surprises me, one or two would be normal, but several...
I allmost made a mistake first time I did this.
Make sure there is 120 degrees between the markings on the wheel.
I had an extra one that was less than 90 degreees from TDC, but I have another car.
Hope I didn't mess up your day.
#30
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OK it probably wasn't "several". Maybe 3 or 4 of the 12.
I've never heard of that. Anyone?
c
so what about '92 cars- aren't they hydraulically adjusted?
c