Soft paint after re-spary
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,689
Likes: 5
From: Leeds, where I have run into this many lamp
Had my bonnet, front wings and roof re-sprayed after my car had an incident with some roof tiles.
Have noticed that the bonnet and front wings have got some really significant stone chips since the re-spray.
It was done at a non-OPC place (insurers use Reg Vardy Bodycentre).
Is it possible that the paint is softer than the original stuff. Can an OPC bodycentre check the paint for hardness/quality etc OR am I just gonna have to put up with it??
I'm taking it in tomorrow for a complete re-machining of the paintwork (excessive orange peel on the wings), and I think I'll mention it - but they'll probably snow me with an "all paint is the same" story.
Comments please
Have noticed that the bonnet and front wings have got some really significant stone chips since the re-spray.
It was done at a non-OPC place (insurers use Reg Vardy Bodycentre).
Is it possible that the paint is softer than the original stuff. Can an OPC bodycentre check the paint for hardness/quality etc OR am I just gonna have to put up with it??
I'm taking it in tomorrow for a complete re-machining of the paintwork (excessive orange peel on the wings), and I think I'll mention it - but they'll probably snow me with an "all paint is the same" story.
Comments please
John,
We have in our GM Dealership also a large Body repair shop.
This problem is known by them also, because 'repair paint'is never so strong then 'Factory paint'.
The second problem is that today we have water based paint, this is for a better enviroment.
So, the strong paint days are a little over, especially when the comlete car goes in the paint box, and dries also there.
Body repair shops heat there boxes for dry max 60 degr. celcius, because otherwise your electronics, DME, tires etc. will damage for ever.
In factory they heat the paint far more up because of a plain bodywork without any other parts.
I hope this is clear.
Greetings,
Arjan
964 C2 1992 Black
We have in our GM Dealership also a large Body repair shop.
This problem is known by them also, because 'repair paint'is never so strong then 'Factory paint'.
The second problem is that today we have water based paint, this is for a better enviroment.
So, the strong paint days are a little over, especially when the comlete car goes in the paint box, and dries also there.
Body repair shops heat there boxes for dry max 60 degr. celcius, because otherwise your electronics, DME, tires etc. will damage for ever.
In factory they heat the paint far more up because of a plain bodywork without any other parts.
I hope this is clear.
Greetings,
Arjan
964 C2 1992 Black
I don't know about your new paint but the original paint on my car has some significant stone chips. The problem is a low car that goes fast and picks up every bit of flying crap that's going. If you do not want any stone chips, don't drive the car just sit and look at it
Seriously there are protection products that you can use: armourfend ££££ and invincasheild. These are 3M clear plastic panels that sick on, sounds worse than it is you can not see them from more than 1.5m away and they really stop the chips. I will be having this stuff fiited once my car has had its respray.
Seriously there are protection products that you can use: armourfend ££££ and invincasheild. These are 3M clear plastic panels that sick on, sounds worse than it is you can not see them from more than 1.5m away and they really stop the chips. I will be having this stuff fiited once my car has had its respray.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,689
Likes: 5
From: Leeds, where I have run into this many lamp
Steve
I agree - it ain't for sitting & looking at. I expect my 125mph+ trip to Glasgow contributed a great deal -BUT in the 5 months before the respray, I didn't collect any noticable chips with similar driving. Just an observation - I'm sure I just have to put up with it & buy a touch up pen!
I agree - it ain't for sitting & looking at. I expect my 125mph+ trip to Glasgow contributed a great deal -BUT in the 5 months before the respray, I didn't collect any noticable chips with similar driving. Just an observation - I'm sure I just have to put up with it & buy a touch up pen!
John FM. 125 on the way to Glasgow? Jings!
Just had my bonnet resprayed - it was chipped to hell - I will let you know if I notice excessive re-chipping...but it does depend on how many M-way trips you make, like you say, and I'll be doing less than the PO did.
BTW the guy advised me to build up layers of wax on it on a weekly basis, hosing it down with cold water afterwards to harden the wax.
SteveW- I had considered buying a sheet of armorfend just for the bonnet and sticking it on myself - I'd be interested to hear how you get on.
Just had my bonnet resprayed - it was chipped to hell - I will let you know if I notice excessive re-chipping...but it does depend on how many M-way trips you make, like you say, and I'll be doing less than the PO did.
BTW the guy advised me to build up layers of wax on it on a weekly basis, hosing it down with cold water afterwards to harden the wax.
SteveW- I had considered buying a sheet of armorfend just for the bonnet and sticking it on myself - I'd be interested to hear how you get on.
There is also "Lingerie" route ....
A bra could save a load of stone chipping on longer MW trips.
Be warned against using magic chip repairers!! They Bite!! <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
A bra could save a load of stone chipping on longer MW trips.
Be warned against using magic chip repairers!! They Bite!! <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />


