For anyone following my recent threads regarding the "CodE" problem I had with my Blaupunkt Stuttgart receiver, here are the results:

1. I did as some of the others posted (I'd like to thank Taj, MSchett2, and Randall G for stereo specific input) and eventually got the thing to put up the "CodE" word, but every attempt to reset it has failed...it needs to be sent to a Blaupunkt repair facility to get corrected, and I'm not willing to do that for this old and not supported unit. FWIW, I contacted Blaupunkt and their support was VERY good, particularly considering this is NOT a supported unit any more. As a result, it will be replaced (hopefully) this weekend (if I get to it..I have some home maintenance issues that unfortunately come first).

2. I bought an Alpine. There were lots of good recommendations from another post I put up about stereo recommendations, but this unit has a $30 bonus set of free speakers that can be creditted towards a new set of rear speakers. For those of you who have forgotten, I'm incredibly cheap. My father is of German ancestry, but my mother...well she's Scottish. I just can't control myself in cost issues!!

And now for the questions:

1. The Blaupunkt is removed with some "release keys". Randall G pointed this out in his response to me, but when I bought the Alpine, the salesman (who is quite good, FWIW) said I needed to make sure I got the right set. Apparently they're not all alike. I popped off front the side covers of the Blaupunkt and you can see where they fit in, but I'm wondering whether I can find these keys locally and what I need to look for, and is there a way to do this without using the keys (I'm not really THAT cheap, but I'm thinking that hunting the right keys may take hours).

2. If I CAN do this without using release keys, what types of tools should I use? The salesman implied it could be done by using something like the long end of a small hex wrench or a tiny screwdriver. How far would these need to be inserted into the holes, and will I need to pry them in one way or another, or would I be better off finding the release keys, even if it does take hours?

3. Looking at the Alpine, it has a red wire that supplies power, and a yellow wire (that's got a fuse installed) that connects to the battery. I'm not sure if the yellow wire is an option for those that want to make a direct battery connection (hence the fuse) or maybe it's there to allow the Alpine to stay active all the time (voltage for RAM??). Will this yellow wire show up on the Blaupunkt harness or connections?

4. Considering how old the Blaupunkt is, will the color coding scheme that the Alpine uses for speaker wires be the same?

You guys have been a TREMENDOUS help so far.

Thanks,

Bill Wagner

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

I've got a release key for my Blaupunkt (a Denver) which I'd be happy to lend you - I have no plans to remove my stereo any time soon. My release key looks like a narrow v-shaped metal wire with a right-angle bend at each end, as far as I can recall.

Bill:

I would certainly recommend buying a wiring harness for your head unit. Any good car audio store will have one for around $15. This will resolve the issue with matching the factory wiring with the Alpine wiring. Plus, the harness should allow for connecting the yellow 'constant on' power source correctly. I would highly doubt that 1991 German Porsche wiring will be color matched with 2002 Japanese / Alpine wiring. Also, it allows you to make all the connections on your work bench (easier soldering). Then just snap in the wiring harness and slide in the head unit. I've never been much of a fan of cutting up the factory wiring.

You'll definitely want to hook up that yellow constant on power wire. As you mentioned, it'll keep your settings intact after switching the ignition off. If not, you'll loose presets, eq settings and the like.

Good Luck!
Jay
90 964

P.S., BTW which Alpine model did you purchase?

Good luck finding wiring harnesses....

My factory Blaupunkt ('89 C4) used really old-school DIN jacks. Nobody has anything to do with those nowadays. There's a Blaupunkt Dealership in Gainesville, Fla. that may help you (they seem to have everything), otherwise, plan on cutting the factory wires. No big deal, really.

As for coloring -- the Blaupunkt has a map on its back that explains the power in, antenna power, etc. The speaker loom is the DIN jack that went (my car has the 4 speaker and amp system) from the dash down to the little amp under the seat.

They use many colors of brown, and black for positive and negative.

Your standard choice is:
1. use the Blaupunkt amp under your seat. YOu'll need to have line-out from your Alpine. The Blau amp is now 10-year tech, and maybe a 20 AMP amp. Pretty feeble.
2. Use the powered out from your Alpine (if it has such, probably does) which should be something between 20 and 40 amps. Wire this straigh to the speaker leads found at the other end of the Blaupunkt AMP. Skip the Amp altogether. Crutchfield sells the harness to plug your amp into the weird speaker jacks Blaupunkt uses.

3. Use a new amp to get the very best sound. See the other thread going on right now about subwoofers.


I started with #2 and ended up at #3.

I just checked the back of my Reno II in my '90 C2. Craig is correct in that the audio connections to the amp under the seat are done with old DIN technology. The power and other wires are done with a standard, white molded plastic connector right in the head unit itself.

Skipping the amp under the seat is a good idea because the Alpine definitely has a cleaner and higher output internal amp than the 11 yr old Blau under the seat. The underseat amp has a wiring diagram showing which set of wires is for which speaker.

Ditto on bypassing the amp! My Eclipse is humming at 60 (out of 100) when the speakers max out. That's good news since I know it's not straining to pump out tunes at lower levels.