Using a Range Rover as a tow vehicle
05-04-2005, 05:44 PM
#1
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Using a Range Rover as a tow vehicle
I'm having a tough time finding a brake control module. The Land Rover dealers claim it's not available as a factory accessry and the aftermarket folks don't want to touch it out of concern for the fancy electronics.
Has anyone had any luck getting a brake controller for a 2003 or newer Range Rover?
Has anyone had any luck getting a brake controller for a 2003 or newer Range Rover?
Last edited by LiveNupe; 05-04-2005 at 06:27 PM.
05-04-2005, 08:12 PM
#2
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I know in the UK that there's a couple of specialist magazines for all things Land Rover/Range Rover, one is Land Rover Monthly - try e-mailing one of their advertisers for advice?
05-04-2005, 08:14 PM
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While not directly comparable, I installed an electronic brake controller into my SC'd 4Rnr. Wiring is quite simple although the runs are lengthy between the battery underhood, controller in cabin and the 7-pin harness connector on the hitch assy. I wired mine with a relay triggered "on" so that voltage is only available to the brake system when the key is on. Then it's a timed circuit deal that's triggered by the same circuit your brake lights are.
On the brake pedal assembly you should see a plunger switch that controlls the lights. Wire in the controller so that it sees the 12v signal when the brake pedal is depressed enough to trigger the lights. The sensativity is controlled by a slider on the unit itself and there is a panic-stop override which comes in handy.
As an asside while you're running the wiring, it's avisable to run from the AUX position on the 7-pin trailer recepticle to the battery a couple heavy wires into a 30a circuit breaker, then onto the Batt+. This way should you ever want to add 12v accessories on the trailer (light winch, desk lights, 12v refridge...) you've already got a protected circuit there for it. Might as well run all potential wires if you're pulling panels to get this done.
The wiring is essentially the same for an inertia controller (both available from Hoppy or other manuf. in the trailer section of AutoZone, PepBoys...) but the placement of the controller is much more positionally sensative. The electronic version which offers a little less sensativity in perfecting the truck vs. trailer brake balance can be mounted in any position/location. I've driven both and both are fine for me.
PS: I towed an SCCA ClubRally Open class Audi 200Q (3000lbs) plus a steel trailer & gear with a 4Rnr using the setup. Previous to the supercharger I couldn't accelerate fast, but I sure could stop nicely. Trailer brakes on both axels is a good thing. Make sure you've got minimum 500lbs tongue weight and shoot for even more else the thing will get wiggy under light brake loading. BTDT,
On the brake pedal assembly you should see a plunger switch that controlls the lights. Wire in the controller so that it sees the 12v signal when the brake pedal is depressed enough to trigger the lights. The sensativity is controlled by a slider on the unit itself and there is a panic-stop override which comes in handy.
As an asside while you're running the wiring, it's avisable to run from the AUX position on the 7-pin trailer recepticle to the battery a couple heavy wires into a 30a circuit breaker, then onto the Batt+. This way should you ever want to add 12v accessories on the trailer (light winch, desk lights, 12v refridge...) you've already got a protected circuit there for it. Might as well run all potential wires if you're pulling panels to get this done.
The wiring is essentially the same for an inertia controller (both available from Hoppy or other manuf. in the trailer section of AutoZone, PepBoys...) but the placement of the controller is much more positionally sensative. The electronic version which offers a little less sensativity in perfecting the truck vs. trailer brake balance can be mounted in any position/location. I've driven both and both are fine for me.
PS: I towed an SCCA ClubRally Open class Audi 200Q (3000lbs) plus a steel trailer & gear with a 4Rnr using the setup. Previous to the supercharger I couldn't accelerate fast, but I sure could stop nicely. Trailer brakes on both axels is a good thing. Make sure you've got minimum 500lbs tongue weight and shoot for even more else the thing will get wiggy under light brake loading. BTDT,
05-04-2005, 08:17 PM
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The above diatribe is really long-winded way of saying; "the brake controller does not have to be plug'n-play". I would advise not paying for a RangeRover part unless there was no other option. The systems are independant of each other so go off-the-shelf vs. from the dealer.
05-04-2005, 10:36 PM
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get a tekonsha voyager brake controller. It can be installed by any trailer dealer, and it's extremely easier to use.
www.tekonsha.com
www.tekonsha.com
