My alignment and corner balance specs
#1
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Finally got my car back from the shop and thought I would post my alignment figures and corner balance numbers for comment. I needed the ride height, corner balance and alignment since I installed the H&R coilovers from Gert.
Corner balance first (in pounds):
w/ driver, LF 737, RF 707, LR 976, RR 983
w/o driver LF 677, RF 690, LR 909, RR 952
Now for alignment specs
LF RF
-1.18 Camber -1.00
3.91 Caster 3.51
0.19 Toe 0.17
LR RR
-1.04 Camber -1.93
0.19 Toe 0.60
Obviously my right rear wheel is way out. I was told by the shop my ride height was limiting the ability to set the alignment to the Euro RS spec. I wish they would have put more camber in the LR to get it closer to the RR if that was the least neg camber they could get on the RR.
Parenthetically, I should note that the shop set the ride height at almost exactly 26" all the way around. I was told they could not lower it any more without adjusting the torsion bars. I have yet to find the torsion bars on my 964. I know where they were on my SC but...
Anyway, I guess I am seeking advice as to whether I should take it elsewhere for another alignment or at least som adjustment on the right rear. I have not driven the car except for the trip home so I have not really noticed any handling issues.
Comments please?
Corner balance first (in pounds):
w/ driver, LF 737, RF 707, LR 976, RR 983
w/o driver LF 677, RF 690, LR 909, RR 952
Now for alignment specs
LF RF
-1.18 Camber -1.00
3.91 Caster 3.51
0.19 Toe 0.17
LR RR
-1.04 Camber -1.93
0.19 Toe 0.60
Obviously my right rear wheel is way out. I was told by the shop my ride height was limiting the ability to set the alignment to the Euro RS spec. I wish they would have put more camber in the LR to get it closer to the RR if that was the least neg camber they could get on the RR.
Parenthetically, I should note that the shop set the ride height at almost exactly 26" all the way around. I was told they could not lower it any more without adjusting the torsion bars. I have yet to find the torsion bars on my 964. I know where they were on my SC but...
Anyway, I guess I am seeking advice as to whether I should take it elsewhere for another alignment or at least som adjustment on the right rear. I have not driven the car except for the trip home so I have not really noticed any handling issues.
Comments please?
#2
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If I remember correctly, this was a Porsche shop?
You did not specify what the toe was measured in. But I would have it realigned and if it is a street car not worry too much about the corner balance. I would also have to assume that 26" is to the lip of the fender? If so, that is not an acurrate measurement of the cars ride height.
I think you need to find a new shop and start from scratch.
You did not specify what the toe was measured in. But I would have it realigned and if it is a street car not worry too much about the corner balance. I would also have to assume that 26" is to the lip of the fender? If so, that is not an acurrate measurement of the cars ride height.
I think you need to find a new shop and start from scratch.
#3
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As you already know, the rear RS specs are:
Toe per wheel +10', +/- 5'. Max difference between left and right: 10'.
Camber -1 degree 15', +/- 10'
And, they screwed up the right rear. Normally, I'd say take it back and give them the chance to do it correctly. However, the comment on torsion bars leads me to wonder if they have a clue.
Unless you are going to use your 964 on the track, you probably don't want almost 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear on each side (your comment on making left closer to right) - that will result in quicker wear on the inside of your tires. The RS spec is a good "sporting" non-track spec to align to (sorry, don't know your planned usage). If they can get minus 1.93 degrees on the RR, I don't know why they couldn't get closer to minus 1 degree and change there. And the RR toe is way off.
Toe per wheel +10', +/- 5'. Max difference between left and right: 10'.
Camber -1 degree 15', +/- 10'
And, they screwed up the right rear. Normally, I'd say take it back and give them the chance to do it correctly. However, the comment on torsion bars leads me to wonder if they have a clue.
Unless you are going to use your 964 on the track, you probably don't want almost 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear on each side (your comment on making left closer to right) - that will result in quicker wear on the inside of your tires. The RS spec is a good "sporting" non-track spec to align to (sorry, don't know your planned usage). If they can get minus 1.93 degrees on the RR, I don't know why they couldn't get closer to minus 1 degree and change there. And the RR toe is way off.
#4
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I agree with Bill. Assuming this is primarily a street car, getting the RR camber down close to the -1 deg of the LR would be prefered to moving the LR up to the -1.9 deg of the RR. Having -1 deg in the front and nearly -2 deg in the rear would contribute to understeer, as well as excessive inboard tire tread wear as Bill noted. The .60 toe on the RR is also excessive and will contribute to excessive tire wear. I also agree with Bill about taking the car back to the same shop to let them have another go at it. Your car has coil springs rather than torsion bars (should be easily visible to the person doing an alignment) and the torsion bars would not be where height adjustments would be made anyway. With your coil springs some ride height and corner weight adjustments can be made by turning the ring at the spring perches. If they're really that ignorant, I'd be tempted to try a more experienced place, even though I'd have to pay again to have it re-done. This past summer that's exactly what I did when the local BMW dealer screwed-up my alignment and showed ignorance about what the specs are supposed to be (Not camber of -2.5 front and -2.9 rear as they insisted).
The corner weights are pretty good for a non track car. The weights already seem to be biased a little in favor of driver only in the car.
The corner weights are pretty good for a non track car. The weights already seem to be biased a little in favor of driver only in the car.
#5
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The shop that did the work on my car was a Porsche dealer. I intend to take it to a specialy shop in Cincinnati as soon as the holidays are over. I too hate to pay for the same thing again, but I just can't ignore those numbers.