wheel alignment and wheel bearings - C2
03-23-2002, 11:05 AM
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wheel alignment and wheel bearings - C2
Hi everyone
I think I need to get the wheel alignment fixed on my C2, (car veers left if I release the steering wheel while driving, and the steering wheel position is slightly off centre when going straight - slightly left as well).
Have a few questions:
- My tires have about 3000 miles or so normal driving life left in them. They don't seem unevenly worn at all. Should I wait till I have to change the tires and get the alignment done at the same time - or can these be done independently?
- Should I get an alignment done at all?? Is the steering wheel position anything to do with alignment?
- My wheel bearings may also be due for replacement (there's sometimes a noise similar to brake pads dragging on the rotors - but brakes checked and re-checked and are not "dragging"). Should the bearing replacement (if needed) be done at the same time as the wheel alignment and or tire change?
thanks in advance!
I think I need to get the wheel alignment fixed on my C2, (car veers left if I release the steering wheel while driving, and the steering wheel position is slightly off centre when going straight - slightly left as well).
Have a few questions:
- My tires have about 3000 miles or so normal driving life left in them. They don't seem unevenly worn at all. Should I wait till I have to change the tires and get the alignment done at the same time - or can these be done independently?
- Should I get an alignment done at all?? Is the steering wheel position anything to do with alignment?
- My wheel bearings may also be due for replacement (there's sometimes a noise similar to brake pads dragging on the rotors - but brakes checked and re-checked and are not "dragging"). Should the bearing replacement (if needed) be done at the same time as the wheel alignment and or tire change?
thanks in advance!
03-23-2002, 01:06 PM
#2
Race Car
To quickly answer ALL of your questions - YES!
Change the tires first, then align...and of course if you need new wheel bearings - get that taken care of ASAP! If it's the fronts that are making the "dragging" sound, the bearings are easy to change, if it's the rear...well.
You MAY not need new bearings, first, check if the rotor dust/dirt guards (round black sheet metal guards) are dragging on the back of the rotor...when I purchased my car, they were...it drove me crazy until I figured out what it was! If so, just bend 'em back. Apparently someone had an issue with a floor jack or something...might have been me??
Back to the tires and alignment issue. I had a fairly worn set of Bridgestone RE-71s on the car and I drive, well, let's say, "spirited". On the street, as well as most tracks, this tends to wear the left front wheel quite a bit more than the right...a possible reason for your steering wheel to be off.
Renew your rubber and then have the alignment checked at the same time, it only makes sense. My steering wheel would have to be held slightly left for the car to go straight until I renewed my tires, now it's fairly straight, although not all the way - so you see, tire wear can cause this.
Change the tires first, then align...and of course if you need new wheel bearings - get that taken care of ASAP! If it's the fronts that are making the "dragging" sound, the bearings are easy to change, if it's the rear...well.
You MAY not need new bearings, first, check if the rotor dust/dirt guards (round black sheet metal guards) are dragging on the back of the rotor...when I purchased my car, they were...it drove me crazy until I figured out what it was! If so, just bend 'em back. Apparently someone had an issue with a floor jack or something...might have been me??
Back to the tires and alignment issue. I had a fairly worn set of Bridgestone RE-71s on the car and I drive, well, let's say, "spirited". On the street, as well as most tracks, this tends to wear the left front wheel quite a bit more than the right...a possible reason for your steering wheel to be off.
Renew your rubber and then have the alignment checked at the same time, it only makes sense. My steering wheel would have to be held slightly left for the car to go straight until I renewed my tires, now it's fairly straight, although not all the way - so you see, tire wear can cause this.
03-23-2002, 02:09 PM
#3
Although this is probably overkill for your use, in about 8 weeks I will have front and rear wheel bearings meeting 3.8 RSR/Turbo leMans GT specs but with ceramic ***** to drastically reduce weight and reduce friction.
03-23-2002, 04:46 PM
#4
Race Car
Robert, please elaborate on your ceramic wheel bearings.
Do they need greased? If so, (I'm sure they do) what type?
Are you having these fabricated -or- are they a factory part?
What kind of weight savings could we expect?
How much are they going to cost??
How are they installed? If they're ceramic races, I would imagine you could only install them with the proper tool, vice tapping them in with a punch...not that I would do that!
...and finally, the big money question...
***Are they feasible for on and off track use, i.e. everyday street driving, in rain, sleet, snow, sandstorms, El Nino, tornados...all those conditions?? <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
I know, I can never be too serious in a post, but I think I have some good questions that need to be answered if you're going to convince us to "go to the ceramic side".
Do they need greased? If so, (I'm sure they do) what type?
Are you having these fabricated -or- are they a factory part?
What kind of weight savings could we expect?
How much are they going to cost??
How are they installed? If they're ceramic races, I would imagine you could only install them with the proper tool, vice tapping them in with a punch...not that I would do that!
...and finally, the big money question...
***Are they feasible for on and off track use, i.e. everyday street driving, in rain, sleet, snow, sandstorms, El Nino, tornados...all those conditions?? <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
I know, I can never be too serious in a post, but I think I have some good questions that need to be answered if you're going to convince us to "go to the ceramic side".
03-23-2002, 05:10 PM
#5
Losng story short:
1.installed as other bearings - no special tools;
2.bearings come sealed - no greasing;
2.can be used on street;
4.weight savings over 50%;
5.***** are ceramic, not races;
6.less friction;
7.cost approximately $225 per bearing.
Finally, like so many things, they are not "needed" but, unlike so many parts bought by Porsche races, they actually are functional and better than the standard part, i.e., they are go rather than show and they do not slow!
1.installed as other bearings - no special tools;
2.bearings come sealed - no greasing;
2.can be used on street;
4.weight savings over 50%;
5.***** are ceramic, not races;
6.less friction;
7.cost approximately $225 per bearing.
Finally, like so many things, they are not "needed" but, unlike so many parts bought by Porsche races, they actually are functional and better than the standard part, i.e., they are go rather than show and they do not slow!
03-23-2002, 08:50 PM
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Robert
The ceramic wheel bearings you are referring to where do you get them? Is there a website where one can read more about them. I have heard of them several years ago on some bicycle components but they didn't seem to have taken off in that industry at least.
Are they very much more expensive than the steel ball bearings?
Regards
Stephen Smith
93 C2 Tip
The ceramic wheel bearings you are referring to where do you get them? Is there a website where one can read more about them. I have heard of them several years ago on some bicycle components but they didn't seem to have taken off in that industry at least.
Are they very much more expensive than the steel ball bearings?
Regards
Stephen Smith
93 C2 Tip
03-23-2002, 10:25 PM
#7
Mr. Smith:
There is no web site. They are part of an engineering project in which I have been engaged -- with German, British and American Engineers. They are common in higher forms of racing such as F1. The approximate net cost to me in limited quantities is $225 per. This would be for bearings for a 964 or 993 and to at least the spec used on the RSR's and Turbo LeMans GT.
There is no web site. They are part of an engineering project in which I have been engaged -- with German, British and American Engineers. They are common in higher forms of racing such as F1. The approximate net cost to me in limited quantities is $225 per. This would be for bearings for a 964 or 993 and to at least the spec used on the RSR's and Turbo LeMans GT.
