fitting brake ducts
03-15-2002, 04:24 PM
#1
Drifting
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fitting brake ducts
Hi,
I'm about to replace the front foglights with brake vent ducts. I can see that it will require some work on the bumper it self, cutting a 3' hole at each side to let the air in (at least giving some more cool air to the oil cooler) and small slits on the inner edge of the fog light mounting space, to allow as smal pin (on the duct)to slide in. Has anyone done this operation? Grateful for any advice prior to starting working on the car. Trying to attach a pic of the ducts!
THKS
Joe
I'm about to replace the front foglights with brake vent ducts. I can see that it will require some work on the bumper it self, cutting a 3' hole at each side to let the air in (at least giving some more cool air to the oil cooler) and small slits on the inner edge of the fog light mounting space, to allow as smal pin (on the duct)to slide in. Has anyone done this operation? Grateful for any advice prior to starting working on the car. Trying to attach a pic of the ducts!
THKS
Joe
03-15-2002, 08:22 PM
#2
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Joe,
I'm installing a set of those right now, as part of the Porsche Tequipment brake cooling kit. BTW, you can buy the non-scoop parts from Porsche. Anyhow, if you just have the scoops, they'll provide more air to the oil cooler and a/c condensor, but won't do anything for the brakes. In addition to the ducts, you need the hose and foglamp/wheel well parts/adaptors to route the air to your brakes.
Anyway, removing your existing fog lamps is straight forward, no surprises. There's a support on the outside of each fog lamp that needs to come out. I ended up drilling the middle rivet out and pulled the metal piece out from behind (requires removing the lower black plastic pieces under each cooler). A drill and a dremel work fine to make the hole in the plastic for the tab to stick into. I used a 1.25" stainless bolt with 1" stainless washer and nyloc bolt to cinch down each end of the ducts. I also took off the tabs, as I decided not to put the screens on, to maximize airflow.
I've got some pictures on the other computer showing the parts and stages of progress. If you'd like to see them, let me know and I can post here or email them.
I'm installing a set of those right now, as part of the Porsche Tequipment brake cooling kit. BTW, you can buy the non-scoop parts from Porsche. Anyhow, if you just have the scoops, they'll provide more air to the oil cooler and a/c condensor, but won't do anything for the brakes. In addition to the ducts, you need the hose and foglamp/wheel well parts/adaptors to route the air to your brakes.
Anyway, removing your existing fog lamps is straight forward, no surprises. There's a support on the outside of each fog lamp that needs to come out. I ended up drilling the middle rivet out and pulled the metal piece out from behind (requires removing the lower black plastic pieces under each cooler). A drill and a dremel work fine to make the hole in the plastic for the tab to stick into. I used a 1.25" stainless bolt with 1" stainless washer and nyloc bolt to cinch down each end of the ducts. I also took off the tabs, as I decided not to put the screens on, to maximize airflow.
I've got some pictures on the other computer showing the parts and stages of progress. If you'd like to see them, let me know and I can post here or email them.
03-16-2002, 08:17 PM
#4
By themselves, the front bumper ducts are useless in brake cooling. And while TechArt and various other aftermarket kits are moderately useful, if you want proper cooling, the parts from the Type 964 3.8 RSR are the only way to sufficiently cool the front brakes and wheel bearings for serious racing.
These parts include (1) the fiberglass front bumper ducts (which could be remade by a good fiberglass and/or carbon fiber firm so as to enlarge the opening), (2) specially shaped fiberglass ducts mounted to each fender well oil cooler or to the oil cooler in one fender well and the condensor in the other fender well (to "catch" the air from the bumper ducts), (3) aluminum ducts mounted to each front upright (aka wheel carrier, radtrager) and (4) large diameter hoses connecting the fender well ducts to the upright ducts. Finally, to save weight, all of the foregoing ducts could be remade in carbon fiber.
On a relared topic, there were special ducts designed for the Type 964 Turbo LeMans GT which provide cooling for the rear brakes and rear wheel bearings.
These parts include (1) the fiberglass front bumper ducts (which could be remade by a good fiberglass and/or carbon fiber firm so as to enlarge the opening), (2) specially shaped fiberglass ducts mounted to each fender well oil cooler or to the oil cooler in one fender well and the condensor in the other fender well (to "catch" the air from the bumper ducts), (3) aluminum ducts mounted to each front upright (aka wheel carrier, radtrager) and (4) large diameter hoses connecting the fender well ducts to the upright ducts. Finally, to save weight, all of the foregoing ducts could be remade in carbon fiber.
On a relared topic, there were special ducts designed for the Type 964 Turbo LeMans GT which provide cooling for the rear brakes and rear wheel bearings.
03-17-2002, 12:09 AM
#5
Drifting
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Robert,
That's taking it a bit too far. I'm just keen on the looks and perhaps getting some more air to the oil cooler and a/c condensor.
Ciao,
Joe
That's taking it a bit too far. I'm just keen on the looks and perhaps getting some more air to the oil cooler and a/c condensor.
Ciao,
Joe
