Peter_964C2

I'm on page 60 of the book.
Very very very usefull information for a porsche dummy like I am.
I own a 964. My 964 is consuming and leaks oil. (like most of them I guess)

My goal is to teardown the engine to make the engine dry.
Now I regret that I didn't buyed a 3.2 Porsche.
This because i should feel much more confortable rebuilding a 3.2 because of the book

Or.... can someone tell me if there are many differences between a 3.2 and a 3.6 engine ? I know.. and many of you will telling me.. use this book as a guideline and get the additional information from another book.. but before opening the engine I wish I had a better view on the 3.6 engine.

DaveK

Er... Adrians book is about 964s. And hence - is about 3.6's. I don't understand why you think it's 3.2s?

Many 964s have the odd oil drip - but I don't think most lose significant oil.

And I think there are quite a few differences between 3.2s and 964 3.6s. We have twice the number of spark plugs for one thing!

Peter_964C2

aaahh sorry... I made a mistake.

I'm reading currently 2 books.
Adrians book for everything about the 964 (general information, body, suspension, ... ) and the book of 101projects "How to rebuild...." The last book is about the 3.2 engine
Both books are great and a must have.

And I've changed first post to avoid more confusing.

Sorry again...

DaveK

Ah, OK - that makes more sense.

DaveK

I think you may struggle to find a book which says much about the 964 engine. Most of the books like the one you're reading do focus on the older cars.

Peter_964C2

I know.. I couldn't find a 964 engine book. That's why I bought the 3.2 book hoping that there's not a big difference between the engine's

Glenn from Denver

I rebuilt my 3.8 RSR motor using the "How to rebuild...." book as a guide on what to do next. I also had the factory manual and the Bentley "...without guesswork" books to help me with differences between the 3.2 and the 3.8.

It went pretty well, although I had to pull the motor again to fix an oil leak problem from the case through bolts. It was a lot of work to fix a simple problem caused by using inferior through bolt o-rings! Once that was fixed, the engine runs strong and dry!

axl911

I am doing a top end rebuild with the "How to rebuild...." book. The 3.2 engines are almost the same as the 3.6. The differences are minimal.

---anthony

Peter_964C2

Hi Anthony,

What is your expierience ? Difficult ?
Any idea what you will replace ?

Schuey

Peter,

Wayne (the author) has a section on his website that he helps purchasers of the rebuilidng book found here Pelican Parts

He is a great help and should be able to answer any questions or concerns you may have...

Kevin

axl911

Doing a top end is not really that hard, but so far I've only did the teardown. My car has only 92K and doesn't leak at the case joint so I didn't split the case. My goal is to do the valve guides, replace through bolts o-rings, re-ring the pistons, and of course all the seals for a top-end job.

The "How to.." book, along with the factory manuals on CD, PET, and this plus helpful members of the Pelican Board and this board gave me all the info I need.

It just takes a LOOONG time. It's 3 months since I started, and I am just beginning the process of re-assembly.

---anthony

axl911

Glen,

What happenned with your case through bolt? Why did it leak?

thanks,
anthony

Glenn from Denver

There are 2 different kinds of o-rings that can be had for the through bolts. I didn't know this at the time I installed them but the Blue ones are crap. They are pretty loose on the bolt and oil can get past them. On re-install, I used the green ones. They fit tighter on the bolt. Of course, that means that you must use more care in getting them positioned correctly on the bolt before you torque the nut down. If you don't have them on correctly, the collar on the washer will pinch the o-ring and guess what...you have a leak!

axl911

I am aware of the crappy blue ones and the green "Viton" rings that you must use. How do the rings get pinched? I am holding the rings, bolt, washer, and nut in front of me now. What did you do to install them correctly?

The bolt are thicker at the ends. Do you have to slide the ring toward the thicker end of the rod so it is next to the collar of the washer before installing? Or do you left them at the narrow section and let them move up against the collar when you insert the bolt and tighten the nut?

I don't want to have to take my engine out again. It's one of those things that would make me cry.

---anthony

thanks,
anthony

Glenn from Denver

The way I did it was to slide an o-ring onto the bolt all the way down close to the head. Lubricate the bolt first so that the o-ring will slide easily. Insert the bolt through the case. Make sure the head is seated. If done properly, the o-ring will hold the bolt in place. Oil up another o-ring and slide it over the threads of the bolt. This can be a bit tricky because if you push too hard, the bolt will fall out. After a couple of them, you will get the hang of it. After the o-ring is on the threads, slide it down as far as you can get it to go. Porsche makes a special tool for this but I used a small blunted screwdriver. Look at the washers. The depth of that collar should be used as a guide to let you know that the o-ring is far enough into the case. Once the o-ring is set, pop on the washer and nut. Snug it down but wait to do the final torque since there is a specific pattern to follow.

That's it....