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Can anyone recommend a shop in the NW Chicagoland area to install my new pipe? (93 C2). I looked under there, I'm not messing with it. Or give me an idea what is a fair price to pay for the labor. I've been quoted $200, seems high.
It really is an easy job. You just need to undo a clamp on each end of the muffler, 13mm socket. Then undo the two large worm drive hose clamps that hold up the muffler. Be careful as it is fairly cumbersome.
Ramps would be really handy and lend a fair bit of safety if you're not used to crawling under the car while propped up on jack stands (not just a jack). Midwest Eurosport in Bensonville and Fischer Motorsports out in Barrington would be good p-car specialists to do the job but, as you'll see by the write up, this is fairly basic wrenching.
You guys may have persuaded me to try doing this one myself. I do have good jack stands. I did the brakes all the way around on this car about two months ago, easy job. That was the first time I worked on a car in at least ten years. The last car was a 1970 Rallye 350 if anyone here knows what that is. Porsches seem a little more complicated. That article looks very informative, thank you. One of the above mentioned shops is the one that quoted me $200.
The Porsche is really no different from the Rallye 350. Its really just amounts to unfastening bolts. The only real difference is the need of metric and maybe some speciality tools.
What kind of options did your Rallye 350 have? I'm guessing it was yellow with the rallye stripes and the 4-spd. Oh if you only still owned that car. It seems that old muscle cars are really up in value, especially the rarer ones like the Rallye.
The Olds was not a 4 spd. but yes yellow with the yellow bumpers. I sold that car in 1997 for $3500 before the web really took off, or eBay for that matter. The Ramair set up on that car is probably worth half that. Today that car would get around 15 - 20k. Man to think if I still had that car I would sell it and supercharge the RSA. Getting back to this muffler, the bolts that hold the clamps are pretty rusty. They've been soaking in WD40 for over a week, but I really don't think these things are coming off in one piece. The problem with working on this car is, if I want to try to cut them off there isn't much room to get a grinder in there. I'm going to take my sweet time and follow the instructions from the link above. If I get frustrated I'll drive it to Eurocar in Franklin Park. Andy there has given me a good quote.
You can buy a nut splitter to split the rusted nuts in two. You should have plenty of room for that tool. It sells for $15 or so. It's a lot less expensive and then you also have another tool in the arsenal.
I think this might be the one time when it is okay to just use your wrench and try to overtorque the nuts loose. The nuts won't come off so you'll end up snapping the bolts into two pieces. The bolts are probably completely rusted so you would never be able to torque them down properly again anyway so just replace them. The replacements you'll need (quantity in parentheses) cost about $1USD in total;
900-074-339-02 (2) bolt hex-head M8 x 70
999-025-125-09 (4) washer 8.4 x 17 x 3.1
999-084-052-02 (2) locking nut M8
I did my cup bypass up on ramps (with axle stands) and the only problem was bolts/nuts so seized I had to cut both bolts with my handy-dandy Dremel. Took about an hour to get the secondary muffler off because of that hold-up and 15 minutes to install the bypass pipe. Longest parts was finding replacement bolts as I wanted only stainless steel so I would not have that headache again.
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