Christer

John

I wouldn't have thought that you would have a problem in a LHD car - Jeff Curtis has a 25.4mm front swaybar! The difficulty we have been having is that on RHD cars the brake servo seems to be in a slightly different position (only mm's) but it does make a difference. Once JZ Machtech worked out they could shift the servo a few mm then *apparently* it works fine - although I am waiting for them to test drive Gary Hill's car today to make sure it doesn't rub....

The GHL system is working fine, I love the sound. The car needs a lot more ponies now but we'll have a look at that next winter!

For me at least it finally solved the 'shall I remove the undertray' argument as it no longer fits on without the standard exhaust.

DaveK

Hi,
RUF have answered my question about "number of springs" the kit should have. Apparently, it's the American kit that has all 4 springs - for European cars you keep the original front springs. So it doesn't actually seem to be a C2 / C4 issue, but a region thing.

I guess pzull is in the USA?

Dave
90 C4

Tony Davis

Dave

I've just had GT One fit Eibach springs and Bilstein dampers to my C4 cab. I'll pick it up this afternoon, but of course it will have to go back in for the geometry set up - first impressions to be reported later.

Although you had the geometry done recently, changing the suspension will disturb it. If you are still getting understeer, try dropping the tyre pressures on the back a bit. I found that helped. Also fitting a strut brace helps tighten up the turn in. mailto:simon@essentialstyling.com sells a very good value one

DaveK

Hi,
Got a strut brace - went for the RUF one when I had to kit fitted.

I will get the geometery done again as soon as GT-One get their machine fixed. Over the last week, the car seems to have settled in - I had a free run into work this morning and it handled very well indeed.

I am going to replace the front tyres anyway when the alignment is done - they probably only have about 1K miles left in them. I think this should help balance the car a bit more.

Dave
90 C4

SEAFORE

For what it's worth, I have a '90 C4 fitted with Ruf suspension, strut brace, and wheels. On my last autocross, I got the tire pressure such that the handling was very nuetral (much less understeer). I have not driven any other C4, so it's tuff to compare, but I can definitely bring the back end around.

My wife spun out a couple of years ago at mid-ohio, I keep showing her the original article in Car/Driver that says it's impossible to spin a C4.

I can't figure our how to lose the push on a hairpin corner at low speeds. Any suggestions for those tight autocrosses? I can easily bring the back around at 30+mph.

Drew_K

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by SEAFORE:
<strong>
I can't figure our how to lose the push on a hairpin corner at low speeds. Any suggestions for those tight autocrosses? I can easily bring the back around at 30+mph.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Easy: pull the e-brake! Just kidding...

I have a C2, and the only way I can get the back end loose at low speeds is to put HIGH pressure in the rear tires. 46-50 psi on Kumho Victoracers (255/17's). The problem with that is the car becomes twitchy doing transitions at higher speeds. I'll only go that high when the course design is "Miata-like" with a lot of hairpins and few straights.

I ran the PRO (Precision Racing Organization) event last weekend in Houston, the new autocross series, and used between 40-44 psi in the rears on a VERY fast course (70+ mph). Still didn't stop me from looping it though. <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />

As always, it's a compromise.

Harold

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Drew_K:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by SEAFORE:
<strong>
I can't figure our how to lose the push on a hairpin corner at low speeds. Any suggestions for those tight autocrosses? I can easily bring the back around at 30+mph.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Easy: pull the e-brake! Just kidding...

I have a C2, and the only way I can get the back end loose at low speeds is to put HIGH pressure in the rear tires. 46-50 psi on Kumho Victoracers (255/17's). The problem with that is the car becomes twitchy doing transitions at higher speeds. I'll only go that high when the course design is "Miata-like" with a lot of hairpins and few straights.

I ran the PRO (Precision Racing Organization) event last weekend in Houston, the new autocross series, and used between 40-44 psi in the rears on a VERY fast course (70+ mph). Still didn't stop me from looping it though. <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />

As always, it's a compromise.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Quite true about C2s and tire pressure Drew. I get the same on my 993. But on the C4 I used to have, as Tony suggested, the opposite seemed to work better. Think it had something to do with forcing the front to have less grip so it wasn't pulling so much like a front wheel drive car....