View Poll Results: Does your LWF cause problems?
Yes - stalling is a real problem
23
25.84%
Yes - niosy gearbox is a real problem
1
1.12%
Yes, but only very minor - easy to live with
42
47.19%
No - no problems at all!
23
25.84%
Voters: 89. You may not vote on this poll
LWF Poll
Technical Guru
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From: USVI
So if the aftermarket chips aren't really helping I'm more than willing to duplicate the RS eprom chip (assuming I can source a genuine chip and not the RS "like" chip I was given) for anyone with a Rennlist membership and a LWF (I'll need some sort of proof so I'm not copying eproms for people that don't really need one) for the cost of a blank eprom ($4-9USD) and whatever postage costs ($1 or 2). And before anyone goes off, this is exactly the same thing legally as buying a chip from GIAC or Autothority or Cyntex/Conforti or Weltmeister/Dinan, etc. only I won't be making a cent.
Last edited by JasonAndreas; Mar 7, 2005 at 05:31 PM.
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,922
Likes: 1
From: London, UK
JB, just to not skew results I just wanted to let you know that I am NOT voting here as I do have an LWF but of course my car is so far from standard that the vote will mean nothing to an owner of an otherwise standard car...ok?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 320
Likes: 3
From: Vienna, St. Gallen, Stuttgart - Europe
Every time I drive somebody else's car with the standard flywheel I feel like in a Diesel engined limousine as far as revability is concerned. Granted, stalling occurs but I also adopted the method of not shifting into idle above 2k and it works brilliantly. For me the lwf was the biggest factor in making my car feel like a race car. More so than cup pipe, RS suspension and else.
There is just nothing like blipping the throttle while downshifting on the approach to a fast corner! Just like on the Dijon track where you approach the first corner after hitting 230kph on the straight and have to brake down to 90kph for the turn.
There is just nothing like blipping the throttle while downshifting on the approach to a fast corner! Just like on the Dijon track where you approach the first corner after hitting 230kph on the straight and have to brake down to 90kph for the turn.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 6
From: London, UK
John - I chose the "yes, but easy to live with" option - but it was close between that and the 'no problems'.
You need to drive mine - the issues people mention were not as bad as I was anticipating. Gearbox noise in neutral is noticeable but bot intrusive. The 'cement mixer' effect if you pull away at low revs is easy to avoid (use 1st gear at low speeds!).
The main issue I have is the 'digital' cluth (on or off) - all of my (embarrasing) stalls have been driver error.
I'll pop up and see you over the next few weeks if I can and we'll have a spot of lunch and you and Paula can take my car out.
You need to drive mine - the issues people mention were not as bad as I was anticipating. Gearbox noise in neutral is noticeable but bot intrusive. The 'cement mixer' effect if you pull away at low revs is easy to avoid (use 1st gear at low speeds!).
The main issue I have is the 'digital' cluth (on or off) - all of my (embarrasing) stalls have been driver error.
I'll pop up and see you over the next few weeks if I can and we'll have a spot of lunch and you and Paula can take my car out.
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From: Cheshire, England
BTW, can everyone see the 'view poll results' button, or is that just me? - If it's only for my eyes then I'll let you all know how it's going.
Sometimes it's hard to tell what I can see (as the instigator or as a mod) and others can't.
Of course, as a mod, I can see everything, all the time!
And let me tell you, it is not a pretty sight!
Sometimes it's hard to tell what I can see (as the instigator or as a mod) and others can't.
Of course, as a mod, I can see everything, all the time!
And let me tell you, it is not a pretty sight!
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From: Cheshire, England
Originally Posted by Mark Brook
John,
I can't see the results, hows it going ?
Mark 90C2.
I can't see the results, hows it going ?
Mark 90C2.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
John,
My problems are almost non-existent. Don't notice any additional noise, but my reference point may be skewed since I purchased the car from the PO w/ the LWF. I have never had a stalling issue but it does come very close before the car "rights" itself. Pushing in the clutch at higher revs when cold tends to drop the tach down to around 300rpm's initially but then bounces back to around 1100rpm's before it settles back to a normal idle.
I have heard it is hit or miss with these LWF's. As far as I'm concerned, no real problems.
Ken
My problems are almost non-existent. Don't notice any additional noise, but my reference point may be skewed since I purchased the car from the PO w/ the LWF. I have never had a stalling issue but it does come very close before the car "rights" itself. Pushing in the clutch at higher revs when cold tends to drop the tach down to around 300rpm's initially but then bounces back to around 1100rpm's before it settles back to a normal idle.
I have heard it is hit or miss with these LWF's. As far as I'm concerned, no real problems.
Ken
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Originally Posted by Tom W
I don't think you can do the same on the 964 (but I'm not sure).
Next - SCRIBE a mark on the base and the metal cover - so you can reset to the factory setting, should something not work out...
Next - remove the epoxy covering the 4mm hex screws and loosen the screw a bit, so that the grey plastic base can be turned slightly..
Next - turn the grey base about 2-3degrees (just a slight touch!) COUNTERCLOCKWISE, and loosely re-tighten the set screws
Next - re-mount the ISV and connect it (1 electrical connection - 2 hoses (inlet/outlet) and start the engine. Let the engine idle for a bit. If you need to increase the idle, loosen the screws and just touch that base counterclockwise a bit. You've gone too far if the engine "seeks"...
Finally - when it's set - firmly tighten the screws...
After doing that - my idle sits rock solid at 892 (according to the SUN Tach I use), so it was slightly higher then OEM. However that cured the stalling issue in my case, rather then a chip - which I installed later, and would have not effected the issue in any case.
Next - remove the epoxy covering the 4mm hex screws and loosen the screw a bit, so that the grey plastic base can be turned slightly..
Next - turn the grey base about 2-3degrees (just a slight touch!) COUNTERCLOCKWISE, and loosely re-tighten the set screws
Next - re-mount the ISV and connect it (1 electrical connection - 2 hoses (inlet/outlet) and start the engine. Let the engine idle for a bit. If you need to increase the idle, loosen the screws and just touch that base counterclockwise a bit. You've gone too far if the engine "seeks"...
Finally - when it's set - firmly tighten the screws...
After doing that - my idle sits rock solid at 892 (according to the SUN Tach I use), so it was slightly higher then OEM. However that cured the stalling issue in my case, rather then a chip - which I installed later, and would have not effected the issue in any case.
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From: Highland Park, IL
Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
only I won't be making a cent.
I had the pleasure of trying out Lefty's newly-acquired RSA fitted with LWF and was wondering a few things. The engagement point seems to be a bit higher than the stock part, i.e. 3-4 inches from the floor as opposed to 1-2 inches. Are there any adjustments which can be made to allow the clutch to pick up nearer the floor?
Second, I was wondering where the increase in acceleration was felt? A number of you mentioned that 1st and 2nd gear seemed to show improved accleration. Was this more evident above or below 4,000 rpm? Can anyone expand on the diferences from stock?
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From: YQU
Originally Posted by John Boggiano
Of course, as a mod, I can see everything, all the time!
And let me tell you, it is not a pretty sight!
And let me tell you, it is not a pretty sight!
Marc
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,922
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From: London, UK
Again, I can't really comment on specifics but to be honest you shouldn't be able to feel the difference in acceleration as such because the difference is miniscule. However, the car feels much better from a driving perspective - rev matching and gear changes at full chat.....it just feels a lot better, can't explain it any further than that...